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Went to the body shop- HOLY MACARONI $$$$$

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MudNurI, Jun 2, 2002.

  1. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    Brought Mudnuri to the body shop Friday..to get a estimate for the paint and rust repair. The place we went to, the guy normally only does old Mustangs, Chevelles etc.. he doesn't do "daily repair" as they call it..He happens to be a buddy of John's, and said he was willing to do my truck...so in we go. He comes out, starts looking it over, I explain that the front end of the truck is all new, good sign, less $$ for prep work, here's what needs to be replaced.

    Both Rocker panels
    Both rear fenders- just a little rust on 1 side, more on the other.
    tail gate, up where the glass is, has some rust, going to be cut out and fixed.
    The roof- needs a new skin, it was sitting upside down once, and he said it would take more time/mud to get it fixed than it would to just cut it out, and put in a new one. UUGGHH
    the "cross member supports"??? I think thats what they are called, under the back of the doors, that go to the frame, those need to be cut out and new ones welded.
    Cab Corners...

    I wanted the truck to be BLACK, since thats the original color, and my interior is Black, and Burgandy, however he explained that black is the hardest to paint, and requires even more time in prep, due to black showing EVERY imperfection in the body...so black it wont be,,

    here's the price...$3500 to get the truck to either flat black, or primer, the step just before the final color is sprayed.

    I was SHOCKED... I thought you know maybe $1500 who knows, maybe I'm an idiot when it comes to paint prices. The guy does incredible work, and explained that he could do it for $1500 but I wouldn't be happy and he would NOT admit that he is the one that did the work.
    The $3500 includes everythign from when I drop it off, all the new skins etc.. so I guess it's not that bad.

    What did you guys pay for your paint jobs? John says go with Primer, so when HE takes it off-road he can just spray over any scratches he puts in it. YEAH right, like that's gonna happen.
    I did explain that this is NOT a trophy winner, just a daily driver, but I want it to look good, I want people to be "HOLY CRAP LOOK AT THAT" when they see it because of it's beauty, not because of the half a** paint job... Was I completely off-base with my $1500 wish?

    Brandy
     
  2. 1BAD88

    1BAD88 Registered Member

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    Well Brandy sorry to sat that the truth of the matter is body work is'nt cheap..Most body shops wont even get into a resto project such as yours .I have a small shop here in town that I do most types a collision repair and paint work and on occasion some customers come in and want a rust repair job done and usually there budget is way off of the what the repairs actually cost.When it comes to rust repair most shops will add extra into the bid because rust is a nasty culprit which is completely decieving (There is much more than you can see) and once you start cutting out pieces that is when you find the hidden rust .I have done over a few k-5s and believe me there is alot of work involved .The paint is the easy part . It is repairing the structural parts that take time (cab mounts .floor pans.inner and outer rockers and the famous rear sill behind the seats)most of these parts can be bought but the rear hump sill is'nt made yet so it has to be fabricated which is time and $$$. But if you want an A-1 job then $3500 really is'nt that bad with paint concidering that the sheetmetal alone will probably cost over a $1000 for the repairs you described bacause more than likely if it has rotted in those areas the bed will need to be redone also they all rot in the same spots from the rockers back...Good luck and let us know how it turns out.....................
     
  3. Tweetysuarus

    Tweetysuarus 1/2 ton status

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    Body work is not cheap even if you do it yourself.
     
  4. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    It might/will be easier and cheaper if you find a Blazer tub somewhere that is totally rust and dent free.

    Finding another tub/body would be the easiest route for me. I have done a few body swaps and they do take some time, but at least I know what the rest of the body looks like while I have it apart. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  5. kumma

    kumma 1/2 ton status

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    i did almost the exact same thing to my jimmy, new rockers, rear floor, all four cross members, new floor boards, and a lot of custom fabrication of new sheet metal. i did it with help from my cousin who is a body man. it was a lot of work but i learned an awful lot and gained alot of insight about my truck.

    it wasent daily driver so i could take time to do it all my self. i didnt paint it either, i wanted a solid truck i didnt care about a pretty one.
    i say if you have time try to do it yourself. 3500 will buy a crap load of tools like welder, grinders, air tools and the like. good luck.
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Body work where your replacing major parts is VERY labor intensive. The parts are not that bad but the time to install and do the finsh work is big. The price seems fair for what you listed being done. In fact I would say he was giving you a break. The guy I want to paint my LeMans and do some minor body work with me taking care of the big stuff and him just doing the final finsh work is going to be about $2200. He is cutting me a deal. That's me having it done to the point he will be doing no welding. That same guy did a Lamborgini Contach. He did a wide body converion on it and pretty well had every body pannel off. The tab on that job was going to be right at $60k /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  7. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I'd echo what everyone says above, 3500 isn't a bad price for all the work involved. I've done a few body off restorations on trucks as well as painted them. Barring the clear coat which is a tedious and difficult job, the prep is definately the hardest part unless you get a cheap job where its all bondo (bad for 4x4 trucks). If you want show quality, I'd find a clean cab/pan and begin there, if you have some extra space. Get it all prepped and sealed when nothings bolted up to it, then slowly start transferring all your stuff over. You'll most likely find lots of hidden work in the process but the end result will be beyond satisfying. then take it in and have it sanded and painted. chances are you'll still run up near 2500 when its all said and done but it will look sharp.
     
  8. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    Paint the whole thing in herculiner then go over it with some rustoleum...covers blemishes and touches up easily!

    Not the prettiest thing around though...
     
  9. 91K5

    91K5 1/2 ton status

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    Body work is one of the most single expensive items for a car or truck, and if the guys good $3,500 isn't bad. I know a guy who restored the body on his Chevelle and spent 10,000 bucks alone just on paint. Most of the cost is labor, cutting, fitting and welding in panels correctly takes a lot of time, and spraying primer/paint takes skill to not leave runs and fish-eyes, easily 100-200 man hours start to finish. The only way to do it cheaper is to do it yourself, and its not easy at all. I tried to fix my quarters and rockers on my old Blazer with sheetmetal and bondo, but it didnt last but about 3 years or so till it made itself known again.
     
  10. Stickseler

    Stickseler 3/4 ton status

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    If your replacing te roof why not go full convertible??
     
  11. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    i painted mine for under 1000...but then again the paint chips and flakes really easy..if you want it to look good for a long time...just keep this in mind....you get what you pay for!...so my 1000 paint job is goin down the tubes...but it looked very nice for a few years
     
  12. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    I had estimates of between 2000-3000 for a two tone typical Chevy paint scheme on my 1980 truck, which was mostly dent and rust free, just four different colors from the different body parts bolted on. I couldn't afford it. I decided to try paint and bodywork myself. It cost me 1200 bucks, which included the 6hp air compressor, some tools, and new GM front fenders. It took me two summer months (I partially disassembled the truck) and I did all the work outside, except for final paint. It was hard, dirty work, but it was half the cost of paying someone else, it looks pretty good (could be even better if I would have block sanded better), and I even shot the interior and door jambs colors to match. Now I have a much better understanding and appreciation for why body shops charge so much. The good shops deserve it!
     

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