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went to the junkyard, have some questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by blazbrnc, May 24, 2001.

  1. blazbrnc

    blazbrnc 1/2 ton status

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    My front 10 bolt spit out it's center section last week so I went to the junkyard to find a replacement. In looking for a front ten bolt I stumbled upon numerous 14 bolts rears under vans and trucks. I also found an 8 lug front end under a 3/4 ton truck. I guessing the front end is a 44 or ten bolt. Needless to say, I would rather spend my money on something stronger than my junk front and 12 bolt rear. I have a few questions of what to look for. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    1. What is the easiest way to check the gear ratios on these things?
    2. I am assuming I would want a 14 bolt with the center hub that sticks out between the lug nuts. Does this mean it is a FF?
    3. Would it be best to get a 14 bolt with an open carrier?
    4. Will the lockouts on my 1/2 ton 10 bolt fit the 3/4 ton axle?
    5. Are the axleshafts the same on the two front ends?
    That should do it for now. I want to pull these things this weekend. Oh yeah, I can get both axles for about $400.
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    $400 is not a bad price.

    1. Pull the covers and check the ring gears for ratio numbers. Example 41:10 = 4.10's

    2. Yes, the protruding portion coming out of the center of the wheel with eight bolts on the end of it. Yes, this means it is a full floater.

    3. Yes, it would be best to get an open carrier, especially if you want to install a locker someday.

    4. It depends on the year of the front axle. Some of the very newer axles(well late 80's) 3/4 tons have the same hubs as the 1/2 tons, but olders ones have the large external hubs. If the axle you buy has the same looking hubs as yours, your hubs will work.

    5. If you get a 10 bolt 3/4 axle, yes the axleshafts will work. If you get a D44 front 3/4 ton, then no your 10 bolt axleshafts wont work.

    HTH

    <font color=green>MIKE</font color=green>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://emmett.coloradok5.com>http://emmett.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Ratio is best checked by pulling the covers off. The ratio will be stamped on the edge of the ring gear most likely, if not you can count the teeth on the ring gear and the pinion. Its expressed like 41:11 which is what I have (3.73's)

    The 14 bolt with the hub sticking out between the lugs is a FF and is most desirable for strength. All 8 lug axles.

    An open carrier 14 is the one to look for if you want a Detriot later. If it has the gov lock and you want a Detroit later you'll need to replace the carrier.

    Your lockouts will work, and the axleshafts are the same for each respective front end...3/4 ton D44 to 1/2 to D44 for example. The shafts for a 10 bolt and D44 do not interchange.
    The front calipers for 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton also are the same although the 3/4 uses slightly larger disc pads.

    HTH

    Rene



    My ass is numb...
     
  4. blazbrnc

    blazbrnc 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the help guys.
     
  5. 89Blazin

    89Blazin 1/2 ton status

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    I know the spline count on newer 10 bolts is different than on older 10 bolts....think the larger spline count came out in 89...

    85 Burb and an 89 Blazer
    One just for fun, one simply for pleazer
     
  6. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    The spline change was for rear ends.

    10 bolt fronts were phased in starting around '77. They can be identified by two square looking lugs on the bottom of the housing, and the cover is different.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  7. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    The 10-bolt fronts from '89-'91 in Blazers and Suburbans are typically 30-spline.

    In regards to strength of front axles, the 1/2 and 3/4 ton fronts are basically the same. The only real strength increase with the 3/4 ton is the 8 lugs holding the tire on. If you are going to an 8-lug 14 bolt rear, then a lot of times it is easier to just get the matching front axle (which will give you both the 8-lug hubs and matching gear ratio), especially since your stock 10-bolt is alread broke.
     
  8. blazbrnc

    blazbrnc 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I know that I'm not really upgrading in the front, but I figure it is a step in the right direction. At least I will be getting rid of my 12 bolt and six lug rims. Being married with a very pregnant wife, I need an excuse for everything and can't afford a d60 front. The busted front end gave me the excuse to go to the junkyard (my favorite place in the world) so I am trying to get the most bang for my buck. Therefore, if I beef up the rear end now at least I will be ready when I happen upon a d60. One of my main concerns about these junkyard axles is that none of them are matching. The truck with the 3/4 ton front has a butchered rear axle. So I need to find a front and rear that are compatible (same gearing).
     

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