Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

What did I do wrong?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by jeffer, Jun 7, 2004.

  1. jeffer

    jeffer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2000
    Posts:
    113
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Loveland, Colorado
    All right I know this has been discussed many times, I tried to do some searches but haven't found anyone else with the same prob. I've completed a 4" lift on my '72.

    Rear: ORD Shackle Flip with new Rough Country Stock replacement springs, stock shackle, ubolt flip, ORD greasable bushings.

    Front: TCI 4" Lift Springs, ORD HD shackles & greasable bushings.

    So here's the problem. The rear is way lower than the front now. Much worse than on the original suspension. I measure that the top of the front wheel archs are almost 3" higher than the top of the rear wheel arch. The truck has been sitting on the new rear susp. for ~6 months while the front was on jackstands (major delay in the project.) Now, I would expect some settle, but that much? Anyone else experience this much discrepancy in their 4" lift? Also, my front driveshaft is too short. Other 4" lifters find that too? FYI, my double wall top is on, but I also have an 8000lb warn on the front. Judging by how compressed the rear shocks are, it looks like I didn't get the desired lift in the back. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Jeff.
     
  2. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2001
    Posts:
    5,693
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    CA
    Saggy butt eh?

    This is why i went with 6" front/ 8" rear springs, so it is slightly higher in the rear when the top is off.. it sits pretty level with the hard top on..

    I don't like blocks, but you could add 2" blocks or a 2" spring in the rear to level it out? If that is too much you can do 1" zero rates?
    You also might want to measure from the ground to the frame or something instead of to the wheel arches?
    I had to get new drivelines for 6" lift.
     
  3. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2002
    Posts:
    3,248
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Evergreen state
    The front wheel arches are larger.
    However I have 4" front with 6" rears with out the overload and it is close to level....
     
  4. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2001
    Posts:
    3,808
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    Do a search for the 1st gen lift measurement thread I started a LONG time ago. There are a bunch of measurements in there for you to compair you setup to.

    I also sugest you measure to the body line and not the wheel arches because the front ones are a bunch bigger.
     
  5. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California (Modesto area)
    Yup I run 4" front and 5 1/2" rear and I sit with just a tiny bit of 'stink bug' look in the back. I realy like the look with the back just slightly higher than the front. Not a whole lot just a bit.
    Oh and yes I too needed a new front shaft with 4in lift. around 250 new of maby save some $$ and have your stock one lengthen up.
    Good Luck
     
  6. jeffer

    jeffer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2000
    Posts:
    113
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Loveland, Colorado
    Thanks Triaged. That was the post that I was looking for. I found the right search words now and got it. I did some measuring and can see that the front on mine is a bit higher than most with just 4" springs and the back is a bit lower than others. I jacked up the rear end just for kicks and it looks like I'd need ~2" more in back to make it sit level w/ the top on, back seat, jack, spare, and a full tank of gas. Maybe I'll go w/ the 1" add-a-leaf to recenter the axle and ditch the top. That should even me out. Thanks for the input guys.

    Jeff.
     
  7. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2001
    Posts:
    3,808
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    I think the 1" 0-rate is a good idea. In the stock location the rear wheels look like they are too far forward...and it only gets worse after a shackle flip.

    Edit:
    Would you mind bumping that thread up to the top with your spec's in it /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  8. jeffer

    jeffer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2000
    Posts:
    113
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Loveland, Colorado
    Done.

    Think I'll be talking to ORD about some Zero Rates..... need to check if my ubolts are too short now. Great.
     
  9. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2001
    Posts:
    542
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Garland, TX
    I found with my truck thst the front driveshaft was the right length after the lift because I upgraded to a 3/4 ton set-up. The diff housing is longer than the 1/2 ton D44.

    On my rear, I used a ORD shackle flip, zero-rates to bring the axle back (you will need a new rear driveshaft here) and some shims that raise the back another 1/2 inch. It sits pretty level now, and after I put the winch on the front will be pretty perfect as far as front to rear slope.
    Good luck.
    Jeff
     

Share This Page