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What does this noise mean

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by aburnett, May 29, 2003.

  1. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    Hey guys,

    Im in a real fix.
    I just reassambled my 12 bolt GM rear end.
    Ive replaced the outer bearing, race and crush sleeve.
    I stopped by a garage on the way home and got the sleeve crushed to just a little taller than my old one.
    I tapped my new outer race in the housing to up against the lip.
    I've put the pinion into the housing and tapped the outer bearing down on the pinion using the old sleeve, block of wood and hammer just enough to get the yoke on with washer and pinion.
    I then tightened the nut while holding the yoke with a 24" adjustable wrench untill i didnt have anymore in and out slack.
    I removed the yoke, put the pinion seal on and put the yoke, washer and nut back on and tightened it back down as hard as i could without trying to over do it(its about 110 pounds on torque wrench). The pinion seemed to roll fine without any sign of too much friction.
    I then put the diff back in, put cover on, filled up with oil, reconnected drive shaft and removed from stands.

    I pulled out of garage and went to mail box(30 yards).
    Did fine.
    Put in reverse to back up to the garage and it made a strong but faint popping noise the made my spidey-sence tingle. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
    It is a stock 12 bolt gm with open differentail with 3:73.

    /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    Could it be that the overall pinion position is too far foward and the pinion is sliping out? The origional inner bearing was fine so I left it alone and its position hasnt changed.
    Right now im demoralized to the point of inaction./forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    You can't set pinion preload like that.

    You have to use a inch lb torque wrench with at least wheels and brake drums off. It would be better with axle shafts out it's best to do it with the carrier out.

    Spec on used bearings is something like 12 INCH lb of force to turn the pinion. 14 with new bearings. Double check thos figures because I'm just pulling that off the top of my head when mine was done 2 years ago.

    Was the carrier pulled at all? You sure the shims went back exactly the way they came out?
    It should be a tight fit to get the carrier in. Beating it with a dead blow is still not too tight on the carrier if your not using a case spreader.
     
  4. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    Well Ive looked at numerous posts on this sort of thing.
    The 12-13 inch poundsis how much it takes to turn the pinion freely in the housing?
    WHen I started reassembling, the only thing in the houseing were the inner and outer race's. I had the pinion with only the origional inner bearing on it, put it in with the new crushed crush sleeve and when I pressed down the outer bearing with the yoke/nut.

    It just seems that the inch-pounds to make the pinion rotateand the 100 pounds or so to torque the nut to conflict in my mind.

    I used the same shims on the left and right from when i removed the differential. It was pretty tight fit getting it back in but i didnt have use a hammer.

    Hopefully you can help me have an epiphany.
    Thanks in advance for previous and future replies.
     
  5. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    may have had my epiphany.
    I simply have to keep tightning the nut(while holding the yoke with large wrench) untill the pinion requires 12-14 inch pounds to turn it in the houseing by itself? which probably requires a tightness on 100 or so pounds to achieve? i guesss ill have to find a inch-pound wrench that I can bum off of someone.

    Even so I think its pretty close. Close enough that i didnt expect and hear noises backing it back into the garage

    BTW I put some more pics out on the link below if you care to take a gander. migh even make a website one day if I can get over this particular hurdle.
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yep you keep tightening and crushing the sleeve and it's going to take a LOT more then a 100lbft of torque on that nut to tighten it. I used a impact that was capable of 300lbft or better to crush that bugger down.
     
  7. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    Well I pre crushed my sleeve a good bit so maybe it wont be THAT hard
    So you think the poping in reverse is comming from a not-crushed-enough sleeve?
    If this works next step MM 203 part time kit!!(when I get the money) /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
    then steering box brace then some body work and... well maybe I should just worry about finding a big honk'n cheater bar for now
     
  8. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    Update Ive tore everything back out to just having thepinion in the housing. Teh revese poping sounds were the end of the pinion rubbing against the differential housing.Left some slight scarring on it, but the end of the pinion and teeth look ok.

    Is there any chance that I can get away with "feeling" my way to the preload inch pounds. I Cant find an inch-foot torque wrench anywhere. Online there in the $200 range and I cant see spending that for once time use, but I need to get the truck drivable by the end of the weekend.
     

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