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what I thought about Painless Wiring after completion

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Dunc03, Dec 26, 2002.

  1. Dunc03

    Dunc03 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 86 K5 with all options, and I bought the Painless kit for chevy trucks from 73-86. First off it is a little price at $486 from autozone, which is the cheapest I found it. The kit was the 18 circuit type.

    Well painless it is not, but it does have most of the stuff you need for a rewire. THe only thing that it really totally leaves out is a provision for the electric rear window, knock sensor, and the second oil pressure gauge( mine has two for some reason). It also leaves out the wiring to the four wheel drive lights and the A/C lights. These are the lights that come on with the head lights and light up these devices at night. Thats not that big of a deal becasue they have extra accessory wires that you can hook these into. THe fourwheel drive indicator light is fun to get working, you basically have to take up the carpet and figure out what wire is the power wire and which is the ground and stuff like that. It does have the provision for the four wheel drive indicator on the gauge panel, but not all the wiring that goes to the unit in the transfer case. I figured this all out, and the most complex thing I wired before this was the stereo and Amp.

    The kit does add in some stuff that is not on factory trucks like power for: electric cooling fans, electric fuel pumps, and ,something mine didn't have, power for a fuel tank switch.

    All in all it is a pretty close setup fora complete system, but it is not entirely complete. I persoanlly would not do this project if you have the option not too. Mine cuaght fire and fried the wires so I had too. If you're knowledgeable about electical stuff its not that bad, just a pain in the butt. IF you don't know much about this stuff, then don't try it. It took me about two weeks of working time to fiure it all out. If any body has any specific questions PM me and I'll do my best to explain. Good luck to all those that do a rewire.
     
  2. COCHEV

    COCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    so you just wired the under dash? or did you do the engine compartment as well? did it have provisions for the steering column- turn sig, wipers, etc.? thanks,
    jason
     
  3. fourwheelerjeff

    fourwheelerjeff 1/2 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    which kit did you use, if it was for a truck /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gifit probably did not have the rear window switch, /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  4. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Thats really good info to know and a good write up of your experience. Thanks for sharing as I may tackle this in the future.
     
  5. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I've been thinking about ripping out my whole dash and building my own from the ground up with new guages. Maybe this summer.
     
  6. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Thats been my dillema, building a new tube frame.. but looking into keeping the top half of the cab (including dash).. if I don,t then its painfull(less) wiring for me too!
     
  7. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I was thinking about a new dash setup like the ORD Blazer. Tuck all the wiring up high to keep it out of the water and such. I've sunk mine a few times and it plays hell with the wiring.
     
  8. Stroked72Blazer

    Stroked72Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I am in the proscess of doing this to my 72 but am just in the engine compartment for now. Its actualy going to be alot easier that I thought as I found a good harness from a guy who restores these things so he has alot of part trucks. I paid $80 for it and it is complete accept for the starter wires I didn't feel like crawling in the mud to unbolt so I just snipped. It only took about 45 minutes to remove the good harnes and less than 10 to remove mine.
     
  9. methcat

    methcat Registered Member

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    i think cochev asked earlier, but did the kit have the engine cmpt stuff too? someone did a major hack job on mine an i'd like to gut it all...

    c /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  10. Dunc03

    Dunc03 1/2 ton status

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    THe kit I used was # 10205, It was actually for a truck, thus the no rear window provisions. Here's a link to their website 10205 & 10206 . 10205 is for 73 - 86 and 10206 is for 67 - 72. The kits have the wiring for the under the dash stuff,the engine compartment, and all the lights. It actually has all the wiring for steering column, ignition, blinkers, windsheild wipers, Cruise control, A/C, Headlights. It has all the essential wiring you will need, and the stuff it doesn't have is not that hard to wire up, but it has pretty much every thing.

    My biggest disappointment so far is with the instrument panel and choke. They do give you diagrams on how to wire the instrument panel connector, but of course mine was an odd ball version, and I can't get the choke light to work properly. Another thing I found is the wire to the choke is not hot when you first turn the engine on. Maybe this is how it is supposed to work and then become energized later when the engine is warm. IF you know how the choke is supoposed to work let me know please. I'm really not sure because I haven't fired it up yet. I'm still trying to get every thing finished up. I still have to wire the radio and rear window. Other than not being sure if the choke works right, everything else works properly.

    You might have to buy a different type of Nuetral Safety Switch for it to work properly. My original one only had two electrical post on it and I had to buy one that had five on it. Gm some how interworked the backup lights and the ignition, but the painless kit does not. Painless has two different sets of wires for the ignition and the back-up lights. If anyone tries this rewire and can't figure it out, just e-mail me and I'll explain it better. I would do it now, but it takes about a page to explain.

    I hope this answers everybody's questions, If not feel free to e-mail me at Dunc03@aol.com. Thats a zero. I'm glad I could help you guys out some cause I kind of went inot this project pretty blind.
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Electric choke needs the engine oil pressure switch to operate correctly, (no operation with no oil pressure) it's typically t'ed into the oil pressure gauge sender from what I've heard.
     
  12. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I tied mine into constant power and it sorta worked. was better than nothing. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  13. Dunc03

    Dunc03 1/2 ton status

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    The funny thing is that I have two oil snding units, so I am kind of confused on how this is going to work. I have only sender that only has one post, and another that has two post. I figure it need to tie into the one with two post. I think I'll just give the guys at painfull(less) a ring and bug them about it. Thanks for the info, that clears things up alot more.
     

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