Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

what is the right cost of a lift?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BlueOx, Aug 10, 2000.

  1. BlueOx

    BlueOx 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2000
    Posts:
    239
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Houston, Tx
    I went to an off-road shop yesterday and asked what it would cost for a 4" lift installed and they quoted me $1500(give or take). $300 of that was labor. I asked about going w/ a shackle reversal in the rear and they say no.
    The price was for front and rear leaf springs(6"springs in the rear). The truck is stock now but, I do have a 3" block in the rear due to the rear springs sagging. Can that be fixed w/o using blocks? They also said I have to put a CV style rear drive shaft in the rear for $500 more. Can some one tell me if they are right and or what I should get so I can do it myself (or try). I know there are a lot of questions but i really need the help.
    thanks
    Charles,

    85 K5
     
  2. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    The price sounds a little steep. A complete, all-spring, Skyjacker softride kit with shocks goes for around $700. Add another $100 for a raised steering arm and extended brake lines and there are the parts.
    Installing the kit really isn't all that complicated, though removing the old rusty hardware can be tough. When I installed a lift on my '90, some of the bolts required heat and an impact gun to remove. Once all of the old stuff was off the new parts went on fairly easy, though an extra person with a pry bar makes lining everything up alot easier.
    For the rear end sagging, installing the 4" springs in the front and 6" springs in the rear should take care of the problem without blocks.
    Concerning the rear shackle flip, why did the shop say no. Are they not familar with the ORD kit?
    A new rear CV driveshaft is not always necessary, it just depends from vehicle to vehicle is you will get vibration with that much lift.
     
  3. BlueOx

    BlueOx 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2000
    Posts:
    239
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Houston, Tx
    the shop said the the shackle reversal kits are no good and to keep it the same way. I want the most flex, what is the way to go?
     
  4. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    2,550
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Maryland
    Actually, a shackle flip is the way to go if you want the most flex. Check out Shawn's or Dep Dogs or Waxers or Grims rides. They have a shackle flip in the rear of their trucks and man, their trucks can flex. By Monday, I'll have the same. I'm doing the shackle flip this weekend. You can get a kit from ORD for around $170. You will also keep the same ride you have now. Lift blocks really kills the ride and could cause axle wrap, and lift springs stiffens up the ride.
    Boss
     
  5. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    If you want the most flex I would say go with the shackle flip. I don't know if the shackle flip itself gives more flex, but it gives you lift without having to use higher arched springs. The more arch (more lift) a spring has the stiffer and less flex it will have. You should also get a better ride out of lesser arched springs. The flip may also allow more range of movement for the shackle before it hits the brackets, but this is just speculation.
     
  6. BlueOx

    BlueOx 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2000
    Posts:
    239
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Houston, Tx
    Is there anything to do about sagging rear springs other than blocks. I was thinking about get a factory replacement rear spring. Or maybe put an Add-a-leaf on mine. The thing is I dont want to use blocks at all.
     
  7. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2000
    Posts:
    2,792
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    In the Burbs close to Tulsa, OK
    I just got a quote to convert my driveshaft to the CV style and to lengthen it. $150-$175 from a driveshaft shop here in Tulsa, OK. So the $500 you was quoted seems steep!
     
  8. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    It seems as if most Blazers came from the factory with a rear sag. I think maybe they just used the same rear springs as the 1/2 ton pickups but the rear of a Blazer weighs much more (the fiberglass top weighs around 300 lbs. by itself) which causes the sag. I really don't think factory replacement springs would help. Add a leafs or new lift springs are really the only option if you don't want blocks (assuming you already had the shackle flip and still need for lift). New springs are obviously the best, but also the most expensive.
     

Share This Page