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What kind of oil to use

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by cryptobiotic, Jan 22, 2003.

  1. cryptobiotic

    cryptobiotic Registered Member

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    What kind of oil should i use?? I live in Utah so my elevation is high and it does get pretty cold here...any suggestions? /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. K5Psycho

    K5Psycho Registered Member

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    for what motor or axle or what

    for engine use something thin b/c in cold oil gets denser
     
  3. cryptobiotic

    cryptobiotic Registered Member

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    GM Crate 350, 10 bolt toothpicks /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  4. 74Chev

    74Chev 1/2 ton status

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    The factory oil recmmendation on that motor is 10w-30. I would recommend that oil because the low temp pumpability, (especially the latest service classification SL on the bottle) is excellent even in 0 degree temps. A heavy duty 15w-40 oil is also very good, that's what I use. It offers better anti-wear protection, less oil breakdown, and high temp. stability, but wont pump well below 15-20 degrees F. Don't use 10w-40, it is obsolete. The increased polymers used to make it 40wt. can cause sludge buildup and many other problems. The additive package used is also not as technologically advanced as this oil has not been recommended by any auto manufacturer since the 1980's, and is not required to meet the stringent standards set by the automakers. GM will not honor any new car warranty if this oil is used, and has published bulletins recommending against its use in any application, regardless of year.

    Just a side note on the newest classification of motor oils (GF-4) which will be released early in 2005. The lighter grades will not have the same anti-wear protection which was previously available with the energy conserving II light wt. type oils. The anti wear agent ZDDP or zinc will be eliminated at the request of auto makers and feds because it is poisonous to catalytic converters and they want to take factory catalyst life past 100,000 mi. The testing on these new oils has been rushed and I would seriously consider staying away from the lighter grade oils, especially in older engines, as the backward compatibility of the new oils is largely disputed. Sorry about the long post, just wanted everyone to be aware.
     
  5. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    If you don't have any big oil leaks or burn a lot of oil I would use a Synthetic like Amsoil /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif For the best protecion you can't go wrong.

    Eric
     
  6. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    Castrol 10w-30...best stuff, next to synthetic
    Axles, spend the extra bucks and get the Mobil 1 stuff or, if your rich, get the Royal Purple stuff.
     
  7. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    I'm kind of partial to Castrol GTX. Most people use 5w30 or 10w30 but I like 10w40. It doesn't seem to get burned as easy. It actually gets dirty before it turns black.

    If you're going to run synthetic I'd say either Mobil 1 Synthetic or Castrol Syntec.

    Avoid Havoline. It's a junk oil. Havoline Formula 3 was excellent but plain Havoline is junk. I've had poor luck with Pennzoil (but some people swear by it). Valvoline isn't too bad. Quaker State costs too much around here.

    I wouldn't recommend running a real thin oil in an old motor. Syntec 5w50 is like water when it gets hot but it actually flows when its cold.

    As far as axles, just run name-brand oil. I usually use Valvoline's semi-synthetic because it's the cheapest at ~$5/quart. Sometimes I use Slick 50's oil just for a change. On average I change my gear oil more than people change their engine oil so I can't really justify $10/quart for synthetic.

    I'd avoid using the various snakeoils out there. Unless you plan on racing they're a waste of money.
     
  8. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    I use Standard/Chevron 10-30 in the summer and 5-30 in the winter (its cold here) it is always cheap at wall- mart and from the tests I have seen it is in the top of all the catagories as good or better than
    the high priced stuff likeValvoline Q- State, castrol, Ect. Mobil 1 dino oil (non synthetic) is also very good.
    Also I was told by the auto manager at wall -mart that their Tech 2000 oil is made by Quaker state.
    I dont use Synthetic oils in my vehicles because of the price. But I do use Mobil syn in my Boat because it is a PIA to change the oil in and only change it once a year.
     
  9. bigmack

    bigmack 1/2 ton status

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    I usually use 10W40 or HD30 Coastal oil which is an Autozone brand. I have used Valvoline in the past and liked it too. And like Thunder I use Mobil-1 synthetic in my boat (4.3l Vortec V6).
     
  10. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    If it's a new crate engine, use synthetic. use something with 5 or 10 for the lower number, and as high as you can find for the high, example:
    10W40 better than 10W30.
    In multigrade oils, the first number is the thickness and the second is heat range. So for cold weather you want the thinest you can get Like 0w30 from MOBIL1 is the best synthetic for cold weather.
    And you want the highest heat range for better protection for your engine.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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