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What rod to use to weld spider gears

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SCOOBYDANNN, Feb 20, 2002.

  1. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    Like it says---which rod do i use to weld the spider gears on my 14 bolt.and how many passes should i take. any other tricks?

    Sun Desert Offroad <a target="_blank" href=http://4x4.alloffroad.com>4x4.alloffroad.com</a>

    83 Chevy, 350, sm465, lincoln locked14ff, dana 60,4.56's, (sometime soon flatbed,and 39.5" TSL's)
     
  2. white-rhyno

    white-rhyno 1/2 ton status

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    MIG welders seem to work ok for me. Just get it hot.
     
  3. 72THING

    72THING 1/2 ton status

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    SCOOBYDANNN,

    I used 1/8" 6013 rods to weld mine because they are super easy to weld with and I already had a lot of them. I used about 25-30 rods. I welded side gears to spider gears and also welded them to the carrier. I made a lot of passes, one on top of the other, making sure to chip away the slag after each pass. I've broken rear axleshafts, driveshaft u-joints, and a driveshaft one time w/out breaking the welds. If you weld it good, it won't break. I used an old Lincoln AC welder and set it to about 115 amps. I've never used a MIG welder to weld diffs, but I know they're easier to weld with. An arc welder will get better penetration IMO, so thats why I used one. I usually tack the spider gears together with the diff. inside the axle, then once I get them tacked where I want them, I take out the diff. and weld it up on a bench so its easier. Make sure to thoroughly clean all the welding surfaces with solvent (brake parts cleaner works great) to get all the gear dope off prior to welding. IMO this is the greatest locker in the world for the rear. I cant afford spool or esp. a Detroit, so this cost like $7 for 5 lbs of 6013 electrodes from Home Depot plus about $6 worth of brake parts cleaner. Hope this helps and good luck!

    (PS: Sorry I offended you about the invisible front driveshaft comment about the 21.5" lifted Chevy!)

    Will

    '72 C10, originally 2WD, 6"Springs f+r, Dana 60 f+r, Lock-Right front, welded rear, 4.56s, 350, SM465, NP205, 39.5" TSLs, ORD crossover steering
     
  4. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks man, I really don't want to weld to the carrier but the rest of it will come in handy.

    Sun Desert Offroad <a target="_blank" href=http://4x4.alloffroad.com>4x4.alloffroad.com</a>

    83 Chevy, 350, sm465, lincoln locked14ff, dana 60,4.56's, (sometime soon flatbed,and 39.5" TSL's)
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    If you're using a single phase buzz box 6013 is decent, 7014 is also a nice rod for the home machine. If you're planning on welding the spiders up like the write up you'll need prolly 2 or 3 passes to fill the void between teeth. If the weld face is a little high on fit up you can always grind it down a bit.

    I prefer MIG over stick though...

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  6. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    I'm gonna use 7018's.... I've never done it, but I'm 'bout to on the Buggy D60.

    Marv
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    7018 is a great rod, but it's very dificult to use on a home machine. 3 phase machines deal with 7018's finicky tendencies a lot better than the single phase home machines. If I'm welding a diff I want the rod to light up without sticking reliably every time. The last thing I need is stray arc tracks all over the place...[​IMG]

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  8. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    Learn somethin' new every day! I didn't know that.

    I've gotten so used to using 7018's... 6013's are easier to strke with but my favorite has become 7018.

    Marv
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    That's why I suggested the 7014...it lights up real easy, has a higher tensile strength than the 6013, and provides a ver nice looking bead. It's basically an all position 'Jet-Rod'. It's a great rod for the home machine due to it's ease of use too...

    Rene



    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  10. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    7014 AKA rookie rods would work well like Rusty said. I welded mine with a mig and 70 series hard wire with gas mix. I would not try 7018 cause they are low hydrogen rods and will absorb moisture making them useless and they do not take too well to anything but clean steel. A 7024 should work well for you also

    I thought I was wrong once,
    but I was mistaken
     
  11. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Hey, Rene... Did I ever tell ya my buddy brought me a bunch of 553(i think, it has been a while) I think it was a nickel rod. It burnt nice on the Buzz box and it is holding great!

    Mike

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>EMMETT</a>
    says: "<font color=green>It ain't easy being Green!</font color=green>
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    What's wrong with 6011?

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  13. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    6011 would be my first choice, w/ 6013 a close second. 6011 has great penetration properties. Stay away from 7018 unless you are a pro, and have a DIRECT current welding machine.

    1-800-MARINES When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight!!!!
     
  14. white_knight

    white_knight 1/2 ton status

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    Hubby is a welding supervisor in Alberta

    His take- the assembly should be pre-heated and he suggests using 10018 rods , then post heat( wrap the carrier and let cool), make sure all the splatter is removed.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.whiteknight.ca/>http://www.whiteknight.ca
    </a>
     

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