Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

what should I check for when inpsecting my axle?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Dec 9, 2002.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    I didn't get time to pull my diff cover today. I'm curious what I should look for when I pulled my diff cover tomorrow??? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    <font color="green"> Loose metal bits are bad. Cracks in things are bad. Lots of metal shavings on the magnet are bad. A lack of any of these things is good. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif </font color>
     
  3. gmcsrgr8

    gmcsrgr8 Registered Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2002
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Utah
    I noticed a couple of things when I did mine. First, the metal shavings made my gear oil look pretty cool (tons of sparkly flakes /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif) Second, my gear oil also was a little milky, from moisture getting in at some point /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. This helped my gear oil look even cooler! And third, I found a tooth missing on one of the spider gears, But at least I have an excuse to get a locker /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,163
    Likes Received:
    1,360
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    My buddy's 10 bolt had the sparkly silvery looking oil but everything looked OK. Finally he used a small pry bar and pried the carrier upwards and it moved about 3/8" up /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Safe to say the silvery crap was the carrier bearing material...

    Rene
     
  5. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    thanks guys... I will check it all out. shouldn't be too long today before I'm pulling that cover. I'm hoping I don't find anything too scary... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Jeff
     
  6. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    ok - here goes... gears look OK to me. there are some tiny flakes of metal on the large gear (only shavings I could see), but there aren't that many. I put my pry bar on everything I could imagine, and I don't seem to be getting any play out of this stuff.

    I've enclose some pictures (best ones I could manage). if there anything I'm missing? I'm thinking I may of just gotten extremely lucky.

    (oh yea, and at the bottom is a decent pic of the yoke that was in here. lucky I didn't kill my entire family with this one! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif)

    rear diff #1
    rear diff #2
    rear diff #3
    old yoke - chalk another one up to mudfreak /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif coulda killed my family! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,163
    Likes Received:
    1,360
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    So was the yoke the problem??? It looks pretty beat to me, but hard to say looking at the pic. The diff itself doesn't look out of the ordinary...no chunks or busted teeth.

    Rene
     
  8. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    no - I took that yoke off &amp; put a new one one about 3-4 weeks ago (but haven't hardly driven it since then) - had it down getting the intake fixed).

    anyway - evidently when I put the new yoke in it threw something out of wack (adjustment wise), or it never was right. I topped it off with gear oil before the trip too, and very little came out when I dropped the cover.
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,163
    Likes Received:
    1,360
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    Well there is a crush sleeve in behind there. Maybe you didn't have the new yoke tight enough or you had it too tight? You weren't installing a new crush sleeve so there should have been a torque value somewhere in your Haynes or Chiltons right? Or is it supposed to be tightened until there is 'X' amount of torque to spin the yoke?

    Rene
     
  10. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    the guy in Idaho felt the yoke, and thought it was adjusted perfectly. I changed the yoke, but I did not use the new nut or crush sleeve. I torqued it to 150 ft/lbs.
     
  11. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    <font color="green"> Well, it appears you installed the yoke a bit wrong. You're supposed to scribe the nut, yoke and pinion shaft, then return everything to where it was. If you changed the yoke then you should have taken a torque reading on the pinion bearing preload and then tightened the nut until you got back to that reading. Looks like you got lucky though. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif</font color>
     
  12. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    ok Shaggy... I understand the parts about if I was using the same yoke, but you lost me after that... (at least all the parts about how I would of done that - taken the torque reading etc.)
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,163
    Likes Received:
    1,360
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    The amount of torque it takes to rotate the pinion should have been checked before any dis-assembly. This is usually measured in inch pounds. The new part should have been torqued until the same resistance was measured...

    At least that's what i got out of Shaggy's 'esplanation'/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Rene
     
  14. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    <font color="green"> Yeah, rene deciphered it correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Sorry. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif </font color>
     
  15. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    ok - and how would of of checked that???
     
  16. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    <font color="green"> A torque wrench, preferably the kind with the little pointer, not the clicker. Put it on the bolt and spin it gently to see how much drag it has. You can use an inch-lb clicker, but it's not quite as accurate.</font color>
     
  17. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Yeah I learned that the hard way.
    I took the yoke off from a ten bolt and put it on the 12 bolt, and drove it for a couple of months then I started hearing noises, and a mechanic riding with me told me I had a bad pinion bearing, and when I told him what I did he explained how I should have done it, check the torque needed to turn the pinion before taking the nut off then replicating after putting it all together.
    Well I didn't even check, I ditched the axle and went with a D60 FF rear.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  18. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    ok so let me get this right... I get the weight off the wheels, drop drive shaft, and use a torque wrench to gauge how much torque it takes to rotate the thing right? (for future referrence)

    ok - so now that I didn't do that how do I got about resolving the problem? how expensive is this going to be? (i.e. what has to be done to correct the problem)
     
  19. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    <font color="green"> Yes, you have the process right. At this point you should just set the pinion bearing preload to spec and hope for the best. </font color>
     
  20. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    ok shaggy - now to the important question... where in the world did you get that picturer, and what animal is that??? (I'm guessing dog)
     

Share This Page