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What should I do with my Dana 44

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by muddermilitia, Jul 14, 2006.

  1. muddermilitia

    muddermilitia ThatTrazerGuy GMOTM Winner

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    A few months ago I bought a set of 3/4 ton axles (Dana 44 and 14bff) for $200. I plan on starting to rebuild them this winter and install them next spring. I have pretty much decided on what I am going to do with the 14 bolt, new brakes, seals, weld the diff, install the DIY backbone truss and Wraptor anti wrap bar, But I havn't decided on what to do with the Dana 44

    I am going to put on new brakes, balljoints, seals, and hubs, but I would like to upgrade the axle with some sort of locker whether it be detroit, ARB, welded, or whatever. I would also like to upgrade the axle shafts and the U-joints. What do you guys recommend?

    I am going to stick with my 35"s for awhile and the truck will be driven almost totally off-road, maybe I will take it to a car show every now and then. The terrain that I will be driving in will be muddy trails (not mud bogging) with lots of hills and off-camber sections with a few rocks here and there. If any of you have seen the Petersen's DVD with Project Taco, then you will know exactly what I will be driving in. Sorry for the long post, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
    Ryan
     
  2. goldwing2000

    goldwing2000 Guest

    How much do ya wanna spend and how hard are ya gonna beat on it?

    If you want to go on the cheap, you can get a lock-right and some good spicer or brute force u-joints and call it a day.

    On the other side of the spectrum, you can get chrome moly axle shafts, ox u-joints, a full detroit locker or a zexel torsen diff, a .375 wall tie rod, crossover steering and on and on and on.

    But if you're going to spend that kind of money, just get a D60 instead of the D44.

    Personally, I have a .250 wall tie rod, lock right and brute force u-joints (I also have 35" tires) but mine is mostly street-driven and used for utility and towing.
     
  3. muddermilitia

    muddermilitia ThatTrazerGuy GMOTM Winner

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    I am willing to spend some coin and hopefully once the axles are in Im hoping to wheel it once a month.

    I've been searching for a D60 for the last few months every one I find is over $1000, I dont want to spend that and then with mods it would be like $2000 or more. So I am sticking with the D44. I dont think I want to do crossover steer right now, I would need knuckles and Dedenbears are $199 each

    So I'm thinking moly shafts and maybe spicer or brute force joints but not sure on what diff
     
  4. goldwing2000

    goldwing2000 Guest

    Well, the problem with a locker in a D44 is that you have to pull the ring gear, no matter what. No such thing as a true drop-in. As long as you mark everything, you shouldn't have to re-set anything, though. With a Torsen, Detroit, Arb, Ox, etc, you'll have to set the pattern on the gears all over again.
     
  5. muddermilitia

    muddermilitia ThatTrazerGuy GMOTM Winner

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    I work next door to Attitude Performance ( they are featured in a lot of tech articles in Four Wheeler) and I know the owner, I was going to have them install the locker. Also what's a Torsen, I've never heard of that before?
     
  6. goldwing2000

    goldwing2000 Guest

    A Zexel Torsen differential is what the H1 and military Hummers have installed front and rear. It acts like a locker but still allows you to turn without binding. It's smooth like a posi but there are no clutches to wear out.

    Pretty ingenious system, actually. Read all about it: http://www.torsen.com/
     
  7. muddermilitia

    muddermilitia ThatTrazerGuy GMOTM Winner

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    So it sounds like if I wanted one they would have to custom make it for my application,right? Have you ever heard how much one costs?
     
  8. blazinzuk

    blazinzuk Buzzbox voodoo Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I would do a selectable locker up front. It will take some stress of the D44. I have a bud who has a d44 and a detriot he is hard on his truck and breaks the front about every 3 months he is also running 35s. If you are easier on your truck than get a detroit but I hate to say it. It seems like over the years alot of poeple on here have done the same you are doing and most, not all, but most regret not going with a 60 in the first place. If you can drop some coin on an axle why not try to find a CUCV take its axles put your current axles under it and sell the now 3/4 ton CUCV a freind did that basically got his 1 tons for free.
     
  9. Chaddy

    Chaddy 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Think about how much money you will spend on a built 44 that wont be as strong as a stock 60. I did the same thing...I built a 44 and broke it with 35's and not even wheelin it very hard at all. 44's are just too small for our obese blazers if you plan on takin them into the rocks at all then get a 60 and save lots of cash in the long run.
     
  10. goldwing2000

    goldwing2000 Guest

    Hmmm... now that you mention it, they might not make one for a D44. I never checked because I was always building 10-bolts.

    Well, a TruTrac is pretty much the same thing.

    http://www.reiderracing.com/truetrac.htm

    They run about $400 and I know they make those for a D44.
     
  11. b454rat

    b454rat 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    If you still want a 60, I have one for a grand. This is rebuilt, only thing that you might need is brakelines and *maybe* a tierod. It has Ford outers, so if your running highsteer with hydro, then this might not be the one. That is the only downside that I've heard about Ford outers. Basically everything that is replaceable has been replaced.
     
  12. muddermilitia

    muddermilitia ThatTrazerGuy GMOTM Winner

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    If you weren't so far away I might actually consider that, too bad though:(
     
  13. b454rat

    b454rat 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Its not too far, shipping probly around $200.
     
  14. muddermilitia

    muddermilitia ThatTrazerGuy GMOTM Winner

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    Interesting:thinking:
     

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