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What Should i do?!?!?!?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Chaz88K5, Jun 5, 2001.

  1. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Alright well i am stumped...should i get a 14 bolt or a D60...i have heard good and bad about both but i am still at a loss...ok well the D60 is alot more expensive, more ground clearance, and parts are insane cost wise, and also bullet proof. oh the other hand the 14 bolt..it is alot cheeper, still bullet proof compaired to the D60....less ground clearance but aftermarket parts are harder to find and also insane on the cost part of it...so what direction should i head...i still am planning a D60 for the front but the rear is what i dont know.

    <FORM METHOD=POST ACTION="http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/dopoll.pl"><INPUT TYPE=HIDDEN NAME="pollname" VALUE="991757029Chaz88K5">
    D60 or 14b FF
    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="1"> Dana 60 FF
    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="2"> 14bolt FF
    <INPUT TYPE=SUBMIT NAME="PollSubmit" VALUE="$lang{'SUB_VOTE'}" CLASS="buttons"></FORM>


    Donations accepted for the "Build Chaz's 1972 K5 fund"!!!
     
  2. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    The ONLY way I put in a D60 is if I had ALOT of money to spare. An ARB in the rear would be cool.
    $325 for a Detroit in the 14FF isn't that bad. Or just weld the spiders.

    my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Hmmm, well I have a D60SF in the rear and it has done me right. Never owned a 14 but if I did I would do the diskbreak conversion to lighten it up and shave the bottom just a bit. So I would think if you start looking for both and the one you find first for that 'right' price will help you decide. Eather way you can't go wrong. Oh ya what type of carrier do you want? Make sure they make the diferential for the axel you end up getting?
    Good luck and see you soon!

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com>http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  4. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    What type of carrier?!? i dident know there were diff type...are you talking about like a arb locker or a detroit? well if thats the case i was planning on ARB's front and rear...

    Donations accepted for the "Build Chaz's 1972 K5 fund"!!!
     
  5. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I assume you are talking a D60 FF rear since you want to add a d60 front... well most likely you will have to move the spring perches on it which adds to the cost... just get a 14BFF IMO... much cheaper... stronger and if you want some omore clerence you can shave her down (plus you can shap it to slide over stuff easier). No contest in my mind... 14 all the way

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  6. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ya thats what I ment was ARB, Detroit, DANA etc.....
    I would compare all the aftermarket cost of all the parts you want to run and go from there. The 14 is most likly the favorite of GM builders.

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com>http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  7. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    ok one more question......ARB vs. Detroit or other compairable...would ARB be the way to go or would i be better off with just a detroit in back with ARB in the front?...maybe i can shave the cost down a little...this truck is almost never going to be on the street so i am not too worried about it....the most i will prob see the road is to and from where ever i go 4 wheeling...if its a long distance i will trailer it (over 500 miles)...well one more question...what gearing do ya think would work out the best? i am goin to have a 465 with a ORD doubler (thats the plan anyway...have to see if the pocket book argues with me). i was thinking 4.11, dose that sound about right with 35"-38" tires? the tire size i have decided on yet.

    Donations accepted for the "Build Chaz's 1972 K5 fund"!!!
     
  8. J.R.

    J.R. Guest

    i would start by asking myself what is the primary use of the truck going to be. if you are a hardcore off-roader and need the extra clearence then go D60. otherwise stick to the 14bolt.

    BIG BLOCK MAN
    "MORE POWER"!!
     
  9. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    If money is no object, go for the ARB. In my opinion, the ARB is good on both a street driven-off road vehicle because you are locked at the touch of a button. If you are only going to use it off road, I would say go with the Detroit because it is a whole lot cheaper and you can never really go wrong w/the Detroit.
     
  10. yeild2me

    yeild2me 1/2 ton status

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    ever compared a rear d60 to a 14 bolt?? the one i looked at off of a chevy 3/4 ton looked pretty weak....personelly, i love my 14 bolt, and i dont ever worry about it (although it does make me cringe when it drags across the rocks!!)


    AIRBORNE!!
     
  11. Gold Rush

    Gold Rush 1/2 ton status

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    Chaz,
    ARB is the way I'd go if the money was there. Since it isn't, my 14 bolt conversion has been welded. Any gear ratio would be just dandy if you have a doubler. Maybe Butch or Stephen Watson could answer the gear question, as they both have doubler's in their rigs.

    David 75K5
    http://www.goldrush.coloradok5.com
    http://www.eshoppinggui.de
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.get-ne.ws>http://www.get-ne.ws</A>

    [image]http://www.extremeblazer.com/sideapproachL.jpg[/image]
     
  12. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Why not put the ARB in the back and the Detroit in the front? That way you can drive it on the street without to many problems but when you off road you engage your front hubs and locker away
     
  13. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Turnability becomes a HUGE issue when the front is locked. You can turn the wheels but they may still want to push straight forward. The advantage of an ARB is that you can engage it when it is necessary and if you need to turn sharply you disengage it. I've heard of people getting the Atlas II T-case which will allow you to engage the front only, turn the wheels alittle, apply the brakes and hit the gas. The truck swings around on a dime. Thats one way to make a sharp turn- who needs x-over steering?

    Stuck is a state of mind!

    Mudstud
    76K5 sb400/350/203parttime/3.73-D44/GM12 locked
     

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