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What to look at when buying a blazer?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by broncoman6524, Oct 31, 2005.

  1. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    Hello... This is my first post here and a k5 will hopefully be my first vehicle :D . I was wondering what i should look at when i go to look at/drive it.

    I hope to learn alot from this forum!

    chris
     
  2. steve_kibbe

    steve_kibbe 1/2 ton status

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    Just a quick question for ya, Why are you a "broncoman" if you want a k5 for your first ride? :D

    Anyways.......When looking into buying anything used, I would take your time to look every part of the blazer. Don't be afraid to get on the ground and have a look around and see what the undercarage looks like. Look for any leaking fluids and if there are any, try to determine how severe they are. Check the engine oil, transmision fluid, and radiator antifreeze. If possible, try to look at it before its been started, still cold. Then let it sit at idle and/or take it for a test drive. Shift it into 4 hi and 4 low(prefereably on grass or dirt) to make sure there isn't any grinding or anything. I always like to check all the electrical stuff like dome lights, turn signals, park lights, radio, high beams and low beams, locks, windows, even honk the horn. Push every button, pull every knob.

    I know its hard, but take your time and think about the purchase before you make an offer. I always like to take a friend with me just to make sure I didn't miss anything and to have someone on my side to make sure I don't make an offer that I shouldn't.
     
  3. 89K5guy

    89K5guy 1/2 ton status

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    RUST! RUST! RUST! Seriously.I bought an 89 K5 back in july off of Ebay motors :o .Now i didn't buy it sight unseen but when i removed the carpet :eek1: I put $800 of sheet metal in this thing and now it is 95%
    rust free.Alot of work but I love my K5.At least parts are plentiful.Good luck and happy hunting! :D
     
  4. guido666

    guido666 1/2 ton status

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    This may sound strange, but when you check the oil and tranny, smell it. You shouldn't smell excessive gasoline scent in the oil, and neither should smell burnt. Smell the ones in your own vehicle before you go so you know what it should smell like (assuming everything is fine). Look for oil in the radiator (or coolant overflow container), and look for anything out of the ordinary in the oil. If oil and coolant have gotten in one another, it will produce what is called "emulsified oil" which looks like a creamy goo (varies in color depending on how crudy things are).

    Turn the radio OFF when you drive it. Listen closely for odd sounds, clunks, hums, vibrations, squeels, etc.

    That's all I can think of now...
     
  5. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    It's been said now a couple of times, but watch that east coast rust. It seems to be worst up around the body mounts located under the front floorboards. I would really check that area of the vehicle.

    If you are looking for a built rig, watch the completed vehicles section in the classifieds here on the site. There are often good deals. If you wanted to drive all the way to Colorado I can vouch for the one that fwdjunky is selling. :wink1: But seriously there are good deals to be had there.
     
  6. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    Oil pressure :waytogo:
     
  7. odoa3

    odoa3 1/2 ton status

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    Check the frame around the steering box for cracks.
     
  8. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I recomend taking it to a shop for a inspection before you buy it. May cost a few bucks, but it's money well spent.
     
  9. guido666

    guido666 1/2 ton status

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    I remembered something else... check the frame for bad rust in the very back couple crossmembers (in front of and behind the gas tank). It seems to be the first place the frame on my Blazers rust out, then your body sags, the gas tank falls out, and it's a pain to fix.

    But as for rust in general, if you're on the east coast (I'm in Ohio), you aren't going to find one that is rust free. Period. If you do it's a Bondo-Mobile. So choose your battles carefully.
     
  10. stano

    stano 1/2 ton status

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    First thing I does is look for rust. Most of the time the outside fenders, top of wheel opening and behind the wheel, look good but if there is rust on the out side, it is bad. Next I check the front inner fender behind the front wheel , you can do this standing up and looking, there is a reinforcement plate about 3" by 6" on the out side of the inner fender behind the front wheel very easy to see. If it has a 2" by 3" hole rusted through them the truck has rust else where and worst. If it is just starting to brake through then the rear of the truck will have more of the same. If it has no rust at all (bingo look more) Then check the door sill with the door open and if it has no holes at the bottom. Then check the underneath of the bed at the cross member at the bottom of the end gate. Look up from the rear tire to underneath of the bed at the very back cross member and you might see holes or flaking, but if there no holes or flaking,,, (Major Bingo the truck has no rust). I get real excited at this point with no rust because this is very rare.

    Then check for grease on the front drag link ends and steering joints. No grease showes no maintance, "bad". Then check the plugs in the front and rear diferencial to see if it is oily at the bottom of the plug for about an inch, no oil at all means no matainace "bad". check for wet oil at the bottom of the backing plate of the brakes for grease seal or brake cylinder leaks, this should be dry and free from oil.

    Check under hood for leaks coolant bottoms hose for radiator and power steering leaks. And cut wires taped up. Then interior for normal.

    Go for a test drive but make the owner drive.. And watch him, he will un knownly tell you what is wrong with the truck. By tring to avoid what ever the problem is because he knows what the problem is. Like if he stops by using the brakes real easy, or always steps on the gas hard or always light as to avoid a stumble or tune up. just watch him. Then try the old trick by leaning forward just a little and get a slightly puzzled look on your face and look at the tranfer case lever and then the steering wheel and then the hood and so on. and sometime the owner will just plain blurt out what ever is wrong with the truck because he thinks you figured it out. This works good for me. Then drive the truck your self if you still have questions about something.

    After the test drive, and the truck is warmed up leave the truck run at an idle. If the owner shuts off the truck start it back up. But make sure it idles for about 5 or 6 minutes and use the time to look around the truck, by letting the truck idle. you are filling the top of the heads with oil and in the cylinders it is also biulding up with oil a little bit. Then after 6 minutes get in and rev it up to about 3000 rpm let drop and rev it to 2500 and one more time. By reving the engine after idling, it sucks oil from a lose valve guide, or oil past the rings, or unburnt gas.. If you see a lot of black smoke from the rear then that is unburnt gas and the truck needs a good tune up and maybe carb work, very little black smoke that disapears fast is OK with me. If you see very, very little light blue smoke and disapear fast (30 seconds) that is ok with me also, but if you see blue smoke and it stays in the air or alot of blue smoke hard to see through. then the engine is sucking oil past the valve giudes or past the piston. And could need a rebuild soon.

    This if hard for a first timer. He wants to buy the first one he see. There are a lot of trucks out there and by looking at every one you can,, then you will start to see the normal stuf that is wrong and you will start to pick out a well maintaned truck for the money.

    knowleadge of the truck will get you a very good truck you will be happy with.

    My personal opinion is to buy in the fall. August to November. But there are a lot of trucks usually for sale all year round.

    thank you
    stano 87 K5
     
  11. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    My priorities when looking at a truck...

    1) does it have Fuel Injection and does the engine run ok?
    2) does the tranny shift ok?
    3) does it have the t-case I want?

    thats pretty much it... anything else I can work on myself or swap in easily enough. IMO the best K5s were the last ones.. get a 1991 if you can.

    j
     
  12. guido666

    guido666 1/2 ton status

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    That's some good advice Stano, you learn something new everyday. :bow: What was the reasoning behind buying in the fall? It seems there are never trucks around in the fall, I always figured because winter is coming and they are all getting snatched up.
     
  13. barneybasher1010

    barneybasher1010 1/2 ton status

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    I always look under the dash for wires tapped up and look at the fuse box.(it might look like a bird nest under there) :shocked:
     
  14. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    WOW lots of replys thank you all.

    Why broncoman lol its my email and i've used it for a while. Plus i would much rather own an early bronco 66-77 but thats a little more expensive than this k5 :D :haha:

    I talked to the guy and he said the power steering leaks. What does this mean? my dad and i have a shop and tool skills so replacing *some* rust wont be a problem. but i dont have a clue what the leaking P.S. is.
     
  15. MrArmyAnt

    MrArmyAnt 1/2 ton status

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    Means pump for powersteering may be bad or o rings are starting to go...
     

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