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What's a reasonable price on a '72 Jimmy

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Sammy Sandbag, Apr 28, 2005.

  1. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Hello, I'm new to the forum, but I've always been a huge fan of K5's, especially the first generation models. Recently I ran across a '72 for sale by owner. I'd like to know what kind of price range I should be aiming for. It's listed for $6,500. I inspected it as best I could, opened it up, crawled under it, popped the hood. I didn't notice any major rust except a few spots at the bottoms of the doors. The rocker panels looked and sounded solid, as did the floor and side sheet metal. There wasn't any interior carpet, so I was able to look at the metal from both sides. The engine appears to be rebuilt, with new intake manifold, headers, carb, distributor, plug wires, fan, and plumbing. When I crawled under it I didn't see any serious frame rust. One thing I did notice is that the flywheel, torque convertor and starter were all exposed. It looked like the lower portion of the bell housing was missing. I'll be honest and say I don't know that much about these power trains, but what's the deal with that?

    Anyways, I would just like some input as far as what I should shoot for when dealing.

    Thanks in advance,
    Sammy
     
  2. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    I can see my whole flywheel when i get under the truck... that's just as far as the bell housing goes back I guess...

    On a side note... in Alabama, $6500 for a 72 isn't bad... there's a 75 listed here in Wisconsin for $6500, and looks pretty good... but there isn't a 20+ year old truck anywhere in Wisconsin that's worth that... let alone one that is 30 years old... unless it had a complete frame off restoration done...
     
  3. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Maybe, but this one looked like there were a few tapped out holes for bolting some sort of cover over it. I've seen transmissions where the flywheel is visible, but I haven't seen one where you can see the entire bottom half of the torque convertor.
     
  4. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    no biggie..

    Its missing the tin or plastic inspection cover most likely,they aren't really nessasary,I've run trucks for years without them with no problems,but I only drive on the street though--they dont cost too much,probably pick one up at a junkyard for 5-10 bucks,or new at the dealer for more..mine are sitting out in my shed with a bunch of other parts--mine kept rubbing on the flexplate so I left it off about 8 years ago when swapped another motor in..gave me a coronary when I started it up for the first time--I thought the motor I just installed was junk! :blush:

    I had a 72 K5,and 2 1971 K5's many years ago--they are still my favorite body style,and they "dont make them like they used too" is very true!...the newer trucks are wimpy compared to the drivetrains of yesteryear..The NP 205 gear drive transfer case and SM465 tranny's were used in C60 trucks ,so they are overkill for a K5..and they had 12 bolt 6 lug axles,rather than the 10 bolt ones they used after 79...

    6500 bucks is a lot of green though!--It would have to be a real puff for me to consider that kind of price!--but if I had the money,and the truck was worth it,my memories of my old K5's would override my common sense,and I'd be driving it home!.... :laugh:
     
  5. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds a bit high to me but if rust is very limited that sure helps in keeping the price higher. Any pics?

    I about had my hands on a 71 or 72 K5 a few years ago for $2,250 but timing wasn't right money so I had to pass. It had a bit of rust but not too bad. I thought that price was pretty reasonable.

    I got a 70 K5 in Feb of 2004 that only has rust on each rocker and a portion of the drive floor. Hadn't been driven in about 7 years and was missing it's tc so I got it for a whooping $600.

    The thing is, there are few and fewer first gen K5's around so that is going to be affecting price.

    Pics would really help in figuring out what it is worth.
     
  6. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Yeah, the looks along with the 205 are what drew me to it. I had previously looked at a couple '80's model K5s, I believe one was an 84 and the other an 85 or 86 with a diesel. Both those '80s models had a lot of serious rust and other issues. And both had the 203, which I was looking to avoid. So when I ran across this '72 it really caught my attention. I realize that $6500 is a bit much, that's why I was hoping to get some ideas from yall on what would be a good first offer or at least a starting point. I wouldn't consider this truck a puff, but for a 33 year old vehicle, it seems to be in considerably good shape. Like I said, no serious rust that I noticed. The '84 that I almost bought (for $2200) had a spot in the right rear wheel well that you could put your hand through.

    What's the opinion of the D44 and 12 bolt? I'm looking to mount 35-37" tires (after all the other necissary steps of course.) I'm just wondering if the oem axles can handle it, perhaps an upgrade in the shafts/spline count is all that is needed. Any suggestions on that and the price would be much appreciated.

    -Sammy
     
  7. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Yep. I've always been on the look out for a CJ-8, and those things are so scarce that you'd be lucky to find a rusted out one for $8K. I'll try to snap some picts of it tomorrow.
     
  8. atho

    atho 1/2 ton status

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    Is the hard top on it? Check the windshield frame for rust, if you can. Also give the rocker boxes another good once-over.
     
  9. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Yes the hard top is on it. I'll do a double check for rust when I look at it again tomorrow. From what I could tell it didn't look like there had been any new paint thrown on it, but with a 30+ year old truck you never know.
     
  10. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Check the frame good too....

    Make sure the frame has no cracks,especially near the steering box,and all the rivets that attach the crossmembers to the frame are not sheared,both are often common problems on GM 4x4's,but more so on the newer 73-up trucks than the early ones....make double sure the body mounts and cab supports are virgin,not patched over with new steel....a magnet helps to find "bondo" in the rear 1/4's and fenders...any kind of lift kit is a tip off to off road abuse,big tires stress things a lot too..

    As for the axles,anything bigger than 35 " tires will be pushing the limits,especially when its 33 years old!--but I've seen them with 44's on the street with no failures,but I would not do any jumps or heavy off roading with tires bigger than 35's if you dont want to break them..some guys say the 12 bolt is weaker than a 10 bolt because the pinion shaft is smaller--I cant say,all I know is mine took lots of abuse,the only thing I wrecked was a rear end yoke for the driveshaft,showing off in 4 low with the hubs unlocked,I was doing donuts and it stripped the splines right out of the yoke!..but after I put another one on,I drove it 5 more years with no troubles...

    A swap to 3/4 ton axles is the way to go,but if you pay 6500 for it,that wont leave much for beefing things up--if your going to wheel it rather than restore it or keep it cherry,I'd say buy a rustier one cheaper and spent the change on the drivetrain--otherwise,if a stock show truck is what you want,make sure the body is mint,mint,mint!!--and assume the drivetrain might be trash even though it might appear good,just in case...

    Here in MA where I live,the body is all that really counts--there are hundreds of rotboxes for parts,but very very few solid rust free trucks to be found,and those that exist bring top dollar in most cases...a lot more trucks here need cabs and floors,and doors and rocker panels than engines,tranny's or drivetrain repairs...I'd much rather put another engine or a whole drivetrain in a rust free truck than try to patch one together with repair panels--been there,done that TOO many times!..its a losing battle.. :crazy:
     
  11. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    photos

    Alright guys, I took lots of photos of the Jimmy today and checked the spots you all warned me about. The rockers seem fine and no cracks in the frame around the steering box or spring mounts. The window frame didn't have any serious rust either.

    Use the following link to see the photos:

    http://www.aisforarmy.com/uploads/72jimmy/index.htm

    I also looked the truck up on autotrader to see what they were listing the value at:

    [​IMG]

    And here's a picture of the for sale sign with the listed components:
    http://www.aisforarmy.com/uploads/72jimmy/pages/IMG_0570_2_jpg.htm

    So what do you guys think is a fair price now?
     
  12. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    She's awfully clean. You'll be hard pressed to find one that rust free. Rust is a huge pain to deal with unless your good at repairing rust and have the time. That adds a lot of value to that K5. Still sounds a bit high to me but sure is clean! IMO there are many people who would not hesitate to pay what that person is asking.
     
  13. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Well I think it's a bit high too, but hopefully none of those people have run across this truck yet and the owner will be willing to deal. I'm still not sure what would be a good offer. Like you said, there are plenty of people who would pay the asking price, but I'm not one of those.
     
  14. gjk5

    gjk5 3/4 ton status

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    That sure doesn't look too bad to me. My "good" '72 is about the same rustwise as that one, and I paid a lot less but that one doesn't look too abused, the undercarriage is really clean, and you're not exactly in a rust free zone like a lot of us are. I think that's a pretty nice first gen overall, and they are without a doubt the best of the K5's (although I'm a little prejudiced)
     
  15. ronnny

    ronnny 1/2 ton status

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    sounds high to me would ask about how much is willing to come down. Find a few ads in the trader or something and see what they are going for around you and thier condition just to see. It is hard to find a good deal lately but with gas prices going up. Missed a 72 k-10 a couple weeks ago for 850 that had just a bit of rust and would need several repair panels. Down here those are a little easier to find than up north. Have saw some sell for that price easy but saw others in the same shap sell for less than half. Some of us just don't seem to happen up on the good deals when we have the money.
     
  16. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    I don't think asking "how much you're willing to come down" works too well when you're trying to haggle a good price. What I need is a good idea of the vehicle's worth and work from there. I know, probably an impossible question to ask without actually being able to see/touch the truck. But, I'm unexperienced with K5's, other than what I get to read in magazines and on the internet. For what it's worth, I ran a cars.com search for 1st gen K5's. Not too much came up, but take a look for yourselves: LINK

    BTW, that is a national listing. I also picked up a Truck Trader at the gas station just to see what it had. Unfortunately no 1st gens, but about 5 or so '79+ models. All were listed pretty high ($4k-$13k.)

    Any other specific things I should look for if I decide to try to negotiate?

    For what it's worth, I'm not looking for a show truck type of restoration, but I don't want to mess with anything other than minor rust. I'm looking for a trail rig, not a rock crawler or mud bogger.
     
  17. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Bump...

    Okay guys, I'm going to try and meet the owner tomorrow and see about a test drive. Anything specific I should look for when driving it? Any other tips suggestions are much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Sammy
     
  18. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    One more question, this K5 already has 35"s on it, but I didn't see any lift blocks in the rear and the springs looked fairly flat and no fender trimming. I was under the impression that a lift would be necissary to fit 35's. Any idea what kinda of set up this thing might have or is it possible to run those tires with the factory setup? Check the link to the pictures above to see what I'm talking about.
     
  19. Sammy Sandbag

    Sammy Sandbag Registered Member

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    Okay, I met with the owner earlier this week and took it for a test drive. Drove like I was expecting for a 33 year old vehicle. The engine was replaced in the late '80s, no specific mileage for it. The owner said it was a 305. It does have a 4" spring lift all around, I believe he said Tough Country. It has stock axles, but he mentioned that it had lockers front and rear. It sure didn't drive like lockers, even after I locked the front hubs and engaged the t-case. He said the rear was a stock GM locker of some sort, any clue what that would be? He said the front was a Detroit drop in style locker. Anyways, she cranked right up and the engine sounded good, smelled a little rich, but that might just be because I'm not used to carbuerated engines. Not a whole lot of power, but I had just stepped out of my 320hp pick up to drive it.

    So, whatya think now?
     
  20. gjk5

    gjk5 3/4 ton status

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    That sounds like a pretty good deal with the added info. Sounds like it may have a limited slip or maybe a gov-loc in the rear? (I'm definitely not the expert though) The tough country springs are spoken of pretty highly around here. The only thing I would be concerned about is that 305, I had an '82 with one and it was a true dog up here in the mountains (may be different for you at sea level), although some people around here have dealt with the 305 for a good while and done some decent wheeling with it.

    As I said before, you can't beat a first gen and they don't come around all that often.
     

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