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whats a Zero Rate ?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by tori89k5, Mar 19, 2002.

  1. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    Gonna show my ignorance here....... but what's a Zero Rate spring ? Have read quite a bit regarding them, but still dont get it. Thanks....
     
  2. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    It is simply a leaf spring that has a "zero rate". To have a zero rate, meaning to have a spring rate that doesn't change with the amount of compression the spring sees, it must be SHORT...ORD's zero rate's may look like lift blocks b/c they are just as wide as the spring pad, but the KEY difference is that the ORD zero rates are integrated into your existing spring pack using an extended center pin...The nice thing about the zero rate springs is that you can increase your ride height with out making your spring pack stiffer. Basically, more lift with out limiting flex due to a stiffer spring pack...

    Chris
     
  3. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    thank you kind sir..... do you suppose Stephens got a pic of one on his site ?
     
  4. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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  5. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Esteban.... some pics of yours would be great.... Now ive created some more work for myself i think....
    Im thinking they would be a good addition to my rear set up, I currently run an overload that i have cut down so it affects ride less but still gives height boost. And maybe i should use them to relocate the axle.... Does the big ole' 14 bolt end up increasing your driveline angle or lowering it ? would i want to move the axle back ? Seems the housing is longer on the 14bolt. What do you all think ???
     
  6. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Tori,

    Doing a "preemtive strike" against more MAJOR carnage, eh? /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    It sure seems like the nose of the pinion on the 14BFF would be longer than a 10-bolt or 12-bolt axle. I guess the easiest thing to do is to just unbolt the driveshaft on the axle-side and take measurements at "full collapse" and "full extension" (Just before the splines fall apart! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif).....then compare those to your "static" driveshaft length.

    If you've got a good useable amount of slipjoint left....you can move that axle back. If not, I guess it's either time to lengthen the existing driveshaft.....or invoke your "CK5 Discount" at Tom Woods Driveshafts for a CV-Style BAD BOY!!!! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif

    ....After studying the pics from the Pismo trip, I think I am going to move my rear axle back too! Prolly at the same time I'm dealing with the 14BFF swap.
     
  7. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    O.K. I'll snap some pics today and put them up tonite.

    I moved my axle back, not so much cause of the angle but for fender clearance. I had a pic of my truck flexed out with 33's and the tire was only about an inch away from the front of the rear fender. So when I got the 37's I decided to move it back before it DID make contact. The 14 bolt is a bit longer, but I don't know how much. It never did affect my driveline, and I never had a problem with the driveshaft being to long or short. Now with the axle moved back some, it seems like the driveshaft sticks out a bit TOO far from the slipyoke, but I went to TDS and flexed it out pretty good and didn't have a problem either. So I guess what I'm trying to say is you shouldn't have a problem moveing your axle back. Does your rear end sag? Are you putting one up front too? I put on in front and in the rear.
     
  8. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    pics of zero rates before, during, and after installation are on my webshots shackle-flip series of pics...

    J
     

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