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whats in it?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by jay web, Sep 30, 2002.

  1. jay web

    jay web Registered Member

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    What is found under an 84 k20 pickup, axle and t-case wise? the truck has a 350, automatic trans. dont know if the engine is original equipment and I couldnt crawl under it (weeds were too high) would it be a 14 bolt and dana 44?
     
  2. jay web

    jay web Registered Member

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    oh yeah, it should bolt right in shouldn't it ?
     
  3. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Probably 10 blt front(possibly D44), 14 bolt rear(SF or FF), TH350(I'm guessing this one) or TH400, and probably np208 t-case.
     
  4. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, the 3/4 ton stuff will bolt in, you may have to do driveshaft mods though.
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Was under a 1983 K20 Sunday. TH400, NP208, 14b SF, 10 bolt auto hub front.

    I'm sure doing a search on this site would reveal the answer conclusively, but I'm guessing no 3/4 ton's after some year (prolly sometime in the late 70's) got FF's, just SF's, and the one tons stayed FF? Perhaps 3/4 ton GVW would make a difference on this, but my dad's '74 K20 is FF, and a friends '73 C20 is FF as well, so GM must have changed what went under the trucks between 1974 and 1983.
     
  6. jay web

    jay web Registered Member

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    I will try to get a better look, but I do remember seeing manual hubs. thanks for the input. Would it be worthwhile to swap this into a k5? I mean, anything is better than 10 bolts, right? What are the drawbacks to a sf?
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Like you said, anything is better than the 10 bolts.(basically lol)

    The 14SF and 10 bolt use the same axle retention method. C-clips on the ends of each axleshaft. If you bust an axle, your done. With a locker, spool, welded diff or posi and a FF, you'd still be able to drive and roll.

    Not real clear on that last part, others can elaborate, but I believe an open diff 14FF would spin the broken axle and you wouldn't move, just like if one wheel were off the ground, although at least you could still roll.
     
  8. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Difference:
    10 bolt, 12 bolt &14SF all use C clips that means if you snap an axle and with lockers you very well could, your wheel will run away with the axle, it will littereally get out of the axle tube.
    The full floater has hubs like the front axles and the axle only gives the forward motion, so if you break an axle, you can still roll on that wheel and what you would do in that case is unbolt the flange and remove the axle so you don't get debris all over from that axle rotating on its pieces.
    Now if you want there are C clip eliminator kit, which can be had for any GM and ford axle.
    I just read about one from Moser, but I am sure there are plenty of them around, I am not sure if they have the 14SF because basically these kits are focused on Race cars and I have yet to see someone go with one of those.
    That is what I am gont to go for, a six lug full floater. Best of both worlds.
    IceMan
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Some of the complaints I've heard about full floater conversion kits is that they leak from the axle ends. No first hand knowledge, but thats what I've heard.

    I'd just get 6 lug axles for a 14FF as opposed to trying to make a SF 10,12, or 14 bolt.
     
  10. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Think about it this way: If you bust an axle shaft with a converted FF you will have to have another shaft special made or ordered at an expensive price. However, if you go with a 14 FF the shafts are a lot less likely to break but if they do you can find one just about anywhere and cheap.

    One thing I like about the 8 lug axles is the larger lug bolts. I HATE the cheap 7/16" lugs used in the 6 lug 1/2 tons. I have seen too many break or strip.
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I can't believe the studs snap before the axle lol, but if I snap a 6 lug stud, I'll certainly consider an 8 lug setup /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    Of course, me needing a 14bolt in the first place is extremely unlikely, but you never know!
     
  12. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not talking about them breaking while wheeling. Just in general.
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've never known anyone to break them.

    Others might have a different opinon on this, but if people can run 12's in the 1/4 mile in 3800lb cars (heck, probbaly 10's, but I'm too lazy to look) I'd have to say that even on a truck, if you break a stud on the street, something else was wrong, like a defective lug or overtightened, etc.

    I drove my '83 on 5 lugs for a few months cause I kept forgetting to replace the missing nut, and since the C10's had 5 lugs stock, I just don't see the K5 weight being so much more that you shear off lugs, with one additional.
     
  14. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Most cars and trucks with 5 lugs use 1/2" studs, but the chevy 6 lugs are 7/16". I'm sure they're plenty strong for most applications but I just simply dont like them.
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    None of the A/G bodies did, ('78-88) they were 7/16 until they went to a similar metric size, 12MM. This includes the Grand Nationals, Monte Carlos, and 442's, and the later Impala SS's were 5 lug 12mm.

    I'm curious if C10's were 1/2"
     
  16. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    OK for your information:
    5 lug GM trucks have 1/2" lugs
    5 lug GM cars have 7/16" lugs
    6 lug GM trucks have 7/16" lugs
    8 lug GM trucks have 1/2" lugs
    I had a six lug blazer w/7/16" lugs that I replaced with 1/2". you just drill out the holes and get 1/2" lugs.
    I felt much more comfortable after that, I had broken a couple on each axle, I bought the truck all rusted out and the lugs were really weak.
    And as for the FF kit I mentionned before uses the same axle, just replaces the bearings, with a flange and bearings. You can use any stock replacement axle, and it's called C-clip eliminator kit.
    IceMan
     
  17. BLUESMAN

    BLUESMAN 1/2 ton status

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    8 lugs have 9/16" studs.
     
  18. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    That is weird all the ones I had were 1/2"
    What year is yours?
    IceMan
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    For what its worth, 1985/'86, 3/4 ton C/K trucks could have either the 14 bolt FF or SF. Not sure why you'd get one or the other (probably GVW) but the parts manual doesn't break down the reasoning.
    1 tons got the FF regardless of C/K those years.
     

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