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whats involved in lowering a tcase

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Goodolboy, Apr 15, 2003.

  1. Goodolboy

    Goodolboy Registered Member

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    whats involved in lowering a tcase on an 87 full size jimmy?
     
  2. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Support the crossmember with a jack, romove the bolts, and put the factory spacers in between the frame and crossmember, and tighten the bolts.

    Dan
     
  3. I understand the advantage for the rear driveline geometry but how can this not create a problem for the front driveshaft entering the t-case that is now angled down??? I know it works cuz' I see alot of guys doing it but is there a sacrifice to the front driveshaft angle? I'm getting ready to do a 4" lift and I have these drop spacers on my list as well but I cant get this thought out of my head. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  4. Catman

    Catman Registered Member

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    On my 90 K5 there were no spacers. We had to fabricate them. I have a 4" lift and no problems with the front drive shaft. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  5. loudnowlouder

    loudnowlouder 1/2 ton status

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    yes there is a sacrifice on the front driveshaft...
    advantage is that the fronts already have a driveshaft that is made for higher angles, i know mine has a CV joint at the top of it, since the blazers were such a shortwheel base they needed this stock.

    so lowering the t-case cross member will make the angle worse for the front, but even the factory driveshaft compensates for it....i run a 4 inch lift and it works perfectly....

    a typical CV joint will compensate for up to 6 degrees without significant wear (some say more, some say less, thats the # i go by)

    you dont need extra spacer in some cases, just move the spacers from the outer holes to the inner holes between the frame and crossmember....now if you have rust like i do, new 2 inch spacers will need to be made...
     
  6. Thanks, that makes sense. I've seen a few of these threads about using cv joints in the rear driveshaft too. Whats the investment...can you use your old shaft or whats the deal...I want to plow as well as trail ride so I dont want to lift to high but a rear cv would help. I know there's a thread here about suspension lifts and plowing. Anyone have success plowing w/ a lift over 4", probobly just a matter of how you build it??? Sorry to fragment on you all here...I've got a #&*^load of ideas and only want to build it once...Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  7. angrysnowplow

    angrysnowplow 1/2 ton status

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    Just make sure you don't have too soft of a front lift spring. I had a big uber-bracket made to keep the A frame on the plow relatively parallel to the ground. Works great, just needed longer chains. I could get a pic of it tomorrow if ya want.
     
  8. Thanks, Sent you a PM on where to email pics.
    /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gifIS ANYONE USING 4" BDS 1/2T FRONT SPRINGS WITH A PLOW SETUP, I KNOW ALOT OF GUYS LIKE THEM OFFROAD BUT DONT KNOW IF THEY ARE TO SOFT TO PLOW. Thanks...
     

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