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Wheel Bearing help needed FAST! ** UPDATE**

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 77K5Blazer, Oct 28, 2002.

  1. 77K5Blazer

    77K5Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I'm sorry I'm not around more often to provide what little info I have to others in need, but you guys are so helpful that I have to ask, once again, for some help!
    To make a long story short, my passenger side wheel bearing grenaded doing 70 down Interstate 84. NOT GOOD! Provides a very bad feeling in your gut! So after I got the thing towed to my house (haha...good sight! lifted blazer with 31s on the front so the it will fit on the car dolley /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif), now I need to know what I'm getting into to get this beast back on the road as soon as possible, seeing as how it's my DD. I need to know how I tear it down, what parts I'm looking for, hub socket size, etc. Any and all info is much appreciated, and I definately need to get that member status, cause I don't know any other way to thank you guys...TIA!
    Allan /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. balzackks84

    balzackks84 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    You need inner and outer wheel bearing sets, inner seals (youll destroy it taking it out) and the socket. The socket is about 2 inches around with 4 pins in it. Ask the counter guy for a spindle nut socket for a D44 and they should be able to take you straight to it. The hard part pressing out the races since those are probably toast too. Get a BFH (big fawking hammer) and a bad screw driver if you dont have a press and hit it out from the opposite end. Put it all back together and use the spindle nut to compress everthing nice and seat the races. Youll probably want to check them again after 10 miles or so.
    This is assuming you know how to take the hubs off. Warns are easy. Undo the 6 screws, theres a really small clip that runs on the inside lip of the hub. take that out and the unit should slide out. From there you can see the spindle nuts (two and a washer).
    Its easier than i make it sound. For the first time it will probably take at least a couple hours. After your third or fourth its about 45 min.
     
  3. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Ya sure it's a wheel bearing? They don't usually spontaneously grenade. First thing to do is get the brake caliper off. On mine it is held on by 2 3/8's allen bolts. Both facing towards the opposite side of the truck. Remove those nnd pry the caliper off the rotor. Set the pads aside. Secure the rotor somewhere using some tie wire, string or zip ties, DO NOT let it hang free. Anyways, if it is the wheel bearing, it's a pretty simple thing to fix. You are gonna need a hub socket. If ya don't need one, You can get them at most any autoparts store, just tell them what ya got and they'll hook ya up. You'll need a set of allen wrenchs to get the outter hub off. A couple small screwdrivers and maybe a set of snap ring pliers too. I never use them. If you've never taken a hub apart, the best thing to do is take everything out in order and place it on a piece of news paper in the order it came out, So you can get it back in the right way. The first thing to come off is the outter hub housing part....Should be 5 or 6 alllen bolts holding it on. When that comes out, the next thing is the snap ring on the end of the axle. You can use a set of snap ring pliers, but I just use a small screwdriver. Next, there is a big ring along the inside of the hub housing that holds the entire hub assembly in. Pry that out with a screwdriver. Then the hub will come out in one big piece. If ya can't pull it out, take a couple of the allen screws that held the outter housing on, and screw them into the hub, so you can pull it out. Next you need the hub socket. If ya look inside the hub, you'll see a big nut with 4 slots in it...the 4 slots in the hub socket fit in those. Take that off. Next is a small washer lookin thing with a bunch of holes in it, sometimes it is tricky to get off.....Sometimes I have to make a pic or something out of a nail or piece of wire to pull it out. After the washer is the inner nut- Just like the outter except for a little tit that fits in the holes in washer ya just removed. Careful when ya start loosening this one, the hub/rotor will start to fall off when it gets loose. After that last nut is out, reach in and grab the outter wheel bearing, then grab the hub/rotor and pull it straight off the spindle. The inner wheel bearing will stay inside the hug becuase the grease seal on the back holds it in. Now, like I said, if it is the wheel bearings, You'll have to replace all the bearings, the races and that grease seal. If you havent done this before, I'd suggest takin it to a machine shop or Napa, and have the old races pressed out and the new ones back in. I always do it myself with a hammer and brass punch. Might want to have them put that grease seal in for ya too. You can pry it out yourself, dont worry about destroying it..Just don't mess up the surfaces were it seals. Putting everything back together is pretty simple...More or less the reverse of removal. Just make sure that when your putting everything back together, that the wheel nut with the tit on it goes in first with the tit facing out. Ask me how I know.lol, I've broken acouple of those little tits. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Pick up a Haynes manual for your truck too...It's pretty cheap and really helps with stuff like that. I still use mine sometimes. One more thing, there are torque specs/procedure for tightening the hub nut things, they set the preload on the wheel bearings, I just do it by feel. I think the specs are in the Haynes manuals, and I'm sure someone will chime in with them here as well. Good luck dude!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. 77K5Blazer

    77K5Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Much Obliged, anyone else?
     
  5. 77K5Blazer

    77K5Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Ok...the inner shell to the inner bearing in seized on the spindle on the driver side...anything I can do about this?! PLEASE TELL ME THERE IS!
     
  6. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Hehe, You are in luck dude, I just fixed the exact same problem on a Camaro the other day. I'll tell ya how I did it...Ya need a small 4/4.5" grinder, cold chisel and a nice big ball peen hammer. Since that part that's fuzed to the spindle is really, really hard, it's also very brittle. What I did on the Camaro was grind that fused piece as far down as I could without hitting the spindle. You have to be EXTREMELY carefull doing this. Don't grind too deep...You won't beable to tell if you are too deep. So be cautious. After ya get it ground down, take that cold chisel and hammer and give the fused peice a good wack. It should crack it. I took me 2 or 3 wacks before I got the one on the camaro to crack. When it cracks, it should loosen it enuff to where you can pry it off the spindle the way it went on. If it doesn't, try to do the same thing 180 degrees on the other side of the spindle. Then it would just fall off. I've also done the same on a fullsize '94 Bronco, by hammering it off the spindle with a punch on the rear edge of the fused bearing. It took like 2 hours of hammering and cussing and throwin tools, but it did come off, a fraction of an inch at a time. Good luck dude. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  7. 74Chev

    74Chev 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Had to fix this one on somebodys truck one time. DId you get the rotor/hub off? If not I am guessing that the long wheel hub is covering up the inner bearing making it hard to access. Reply back if you cant get the rotor off? Remember that your wheel hub is now junk and you will not be able to put new bearings in it and the spindle is also wasted, unbolt it and throw it away. Get a new spindle, spindle bearing,wheel hub, bearings, races, inner seal, spindle bearing seal, bearing nut kit, and good high temp grease. (I use marine type) Put everything back together as specified buy the manual. I ALWAYS use the factory torque specs on the nuts and procedure and have never had a problem with one. Hope this helps.
     
  8. 77K5Blazer

    77K5Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Ok...the rotor/hub came off fine, I'm just left with the inner piece of the bearing on the spindle. BTW, what are the torque specs?
     
  9. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Remember that your wheel hub is now junk and you will not be able to put new bearings in it and the spindle is also wasted, unbolt it and throw it away.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You could be right worse case senario. If the fused bearing comes off without damaging the spindle, and the new bearing still fits on and seats on the spindle, then it is not "wasted". It IS, however a good idea to replace everything. And why would the hub/rotor be bad? At most the inner bearing race is shot, not the whole hub/rotor. No reason why he coulnd't get new bearings/races in there. If you are short on cash and need to get your truck on the road ASAP, then you'll be fine with grindin that thing off. That Bronco belonged to me and I didnt have a problem with it for a year or more.
     
  10. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    For taking the bearing off, the instruction given here are the easiest, grind a line across the race so you weeken it enough and a hard blow with a BFH will crack it open it should be brittle enough.
    As for the ditching every thing and getting new, not necessary.
    What you need to see is if the new race goes in snugg or tight, then you are ok, if you ran on it long enough where the hub has worn off and the race fit's loose, then you need to change.
    I have even seen some people fix that by punching a few dimples to roughen the surface and make the race fit snugg, btu that should only be used as a temp fix to get back home.
     
  11. 74Chev

    74Chev 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    If the race is stuck on the spindle it is becasue the race spun in the hub, right causing it to fuse to the spindle? Therefore the hub is shot. I have been through this on many trucks I have worked on. New race drops to the bottom of the hub. I have personally never seen either of these parts salvageable in this situation. Just my 2 cents.
     
  12. 77K5Blazer

    77K5Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Got the fragged race off the spindle. Gonna have new bearing pressed in tomorrow and we'll see if the spindle's good or not I guess!
     
  13. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Re: Wheel Bearing help needed FAST!

    Go back and re-read dude. It's not the race stuck on the spindle. It's part of the inner bearing. There's no way the race could get stuck on the spindle...it's waaay to big. If it did spin inside it's seat in the rotor, then the rotor would be shot.....But thats not what happened.
     

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