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Wheel Bearing Time?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by kchecca, Dec 1, 2001.

  1. kchecca

    kchecca Registered Member

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    Morning all. Well, this fine 65 deg day in Mass let me some time to check all the wobbles and rattles on the Blazer. I think my source of both the shake and my funny rubbing noise is indeed bad wheel bearings. I can shake the wheel and see movement on both sides of the steering u-joint.

    So, there are two bearings per side, right. One in the knuckle and one just inside the housing? Or just in the knuckle? And how bad is it to change them myself. Might use it as a good time to replace bearings, do the brakes, and put on manual hubs.

    Any thoughts are appreciated. I searched back through the forum and didnt find much on 'wheel bearing'. Anything specific I should be looking for?

    --------------------------
    Keith C
    Bigbird '00 Jeep TJ
    Grandpa's '77 Blazer
     
  2. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    Each side has an inner and outer bearing. You can do this yourself depending on your experience. The only "special" tools you'll need are a torque wrench and a hub socket.

    <font color=red>"SETTING OFF ALARMS IN A CITY NEAR YOU!"</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     
  3. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    Oh, I almost forgot. Here is a link to this question:

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&amp;Board=blazer4x4&amp;Number=87567&amp;page=&amp;view=&amp;sb=&amp;o=>http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&amp;Board=blazer4x4&amp;Number=87567&amp;page=&amp;view=&amp;sb=&amp;o=</a>

    <font color=red>"SETTING OFF ALARMS IN A CITY NEAR YOU!"</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     
  4. kchecca

    kchecca Registered Member

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    BigTex, thanks for the pointers in the right direction. I am neck deep in the process now. A couple things came up:

    1. I did the right side and the bearings looked perfect. Like new. But the nut was REAL lose coming off, so I tried a repack and reinstall. I did it by the book for torque values (with a wrench), but it only talks about tightening to the 50lb once.... while the notes in the previous posts talked about repeating this until the value remains constant. I still have a bit more movement than I'd like, is this the likely cause?

    2. On the left side, I need to replace the spindle bearing. What a biatch! Do I realistically stand a chance of removing it with a slide hammer and bearing puller, or should I look for a new spindle?

    Thanks guys.

    --------------------------
    Keith C
    Bigbird '00 Jeep TJ
    Grandpa's '77 Blazer
     
  5. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I got my spindle bearings out by using a brass rod (acrually I think I used a combination of 2 rods to get the right angle) and hammering them out from the other side. If you use brass you don't have to worry about F'ing anything up in the process. I tried a bearing puller (not the slide hammer type)but could never get a good bite on it.

    On the wheel bearings...
    The way that the manual says to do it always felt too loose to me so I did it the way I always do...Spin the wheel, tighten down the nut till the wheel stops, repeat a few times, back it off once more and tighten it by hand. It still has a few thousanths of play but not a hole lot.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
     
  6. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    Keith, it is my understanding that you may have to adjust and tighten the bearings more than once, but I'm not quite sure. One of the other guys here may be of better help to you.

    Now as far as the spindle bearing, the best advice I can give you is to try and pull it out. However, it is very important that you do not scuff the bearing surface on the spindle because if you do, you are going to have to get a new spindle altogether. That one is going to have to be your best judgement call.

    I hope this helps. Good luck!

    <font color=red>"SETTING OFF ALARMS IN A CITY NEAR YOU!"</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     
  7. kchecca

    kchecca Registered Member

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    AH HA! I got it! Thanks to all the advice and links to past conversation on bearings. I couldn't have done it without that.

    I ended up making a brass drift out of 1/2" round stock. Cut it at 10" long and ground a little "neck" into the far end. It allowed me to get into the recess where the spindle bearing sits and pound it right out in 2 minutes.

    I also did the old torque, spin the wheel, repeat about 10 times at each step. There is no play left I can feel, just smooth turning wheels.

    Gotta bleed the brakes tonight and take it for a test drive. Thanks again all.

    --------------------------
    Keith C
    Bigbird '00 Jeep TJ
    Grandpa's '77 Blazer
     

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