Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Wheel Bearings, how do you tighten?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by **DONOTDELETE**, Apr 1, 2002.

    My wheel bearings have come a tad loose and I was wondering how you tighten them. Is it easy? It would be awsome if somebody would write a little article on how to do it. Thanks so much. Later
     
  1. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    If you've got a manual it tells you how to tighten them. Basically you tighten the inner nut to a specified torque then back it out like a half turn. Then you put the retainer washer back and tighten the outer nut to the specified torque. If you don't have a manual and need the torques, let me know and I'll go find them. Maybe someone else knows off the top of their heads.
     
  2. Yea I need the torques and also I am clueless in the wheel bearing dept, where are these nuts and how do I get to them? I need a good explination of where these are and how I get to them. Later
     
  3. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    You should seriously go get a manual on your truck. It will explain EVERYTHING real clearly. I'll get all the torque's for you tomorrow. It's cold outside and my wam bed is waiting for me./forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  4. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,261
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    I am going to assume that you have manual locking hubs...first, take all the allen bolts out that hold the hub in...then once you have the cover (knob) of the locking hub off, there will be a large internal snap-ring the hold the actual locking mechanism in the hub...yank that out and pull the rest of the locking hub out...

    Next, you will need a "wheel bearing socket"...The ones for the 10-bolts have 4 internal prongs every 90-degrees around the inside of the socket...The ones for D-60 have 6-prongs...

    When you look in where the locking hub used to be, you will see the stub shaft and a "lock-nut" the lock nut will have 4 cut-outs to receive the "wheel bearing socket" Take the lock-nut off...After the lock-nut (or outer nut, as it is the outermost of the 2 nuts that retain the wheel bearing...) you will need to pul the lock washer off...the lock washer has a few holes to got over the pin on the wheel bearing nut...Pull the washer off...Now you can see the innermost wheel bearing nut...this is the nut that sets the bearing "pre-load" and the outer nut is the one that keeps the innermost wheel bearing nut at its spcified torque rating...

    I tighten the inner wheel bearing retainer nut as follows:

    Spin the wheel and start tightening the nut...tighten the nut until the wheel slows in about 1 revolution or so...if it keeps spinning freely, the nut is too loose...once you have the inner nut tight enough so it slows the wheel after about 1 revolution, put on th e"lock washer"..you may have to tighten or loosen the inner nut to line the pin on the nut up with the hole on the washer...Once the washer is in, put the lock nut back on and tighten it down...I don't reember the toruq spec for this but I think it is around 70 ft.lbs. or something like that...

    Chris
     
  5. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2001
    Posts:
    2,462
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Okay first of all make sure your hubs are in the lock position before removing the allen screws. Unbolt the two glide pins and hang the caliper aside.

    Remove the allen screws on the head of the hub. Next you will need to remove the hub innards. Most hubs have two retaining rings that hold it in place. (It can be a bit tricky) Next, Use the four prong socket to back off the outter nut. Remove the washer. Finally remove the inner nut.

    Off comes the rotor....

    Bearings in place new grease etc....tighten the inner nut to 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel. Back it off 90 degrees and retighten to 35ft/lbs back off 3/8ths of a turn. At this point check the rotor for play...it really should not move in or out or side to side...if it does slowly tighten it until it doesn't. Insert washer.
    outer nut tighten to 50 ft/lbs back off 90 retighten to 35 without backing off the outernut 3/8th's

    reinstall hb innards, hub cap and back on goes the caliper

    ITS DONE....you now have a truck
     
  6. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2001
    Posts:
    1,346
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Once you get the bearings adjusted with the inner nut and get the lock ring on, torque the outer nut to 160. Do not back off the outer nut.

    Pete
     
  7. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 11, 2000
    Posts:
    2,290
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Tucson Az
    Before you tighten your wheel bearings check them and make sure theyre not TRASHED! Or it'll all be for not. I think the inner nut is tightened to about 10 to 15 ft lbs of torque and the outer is like 115 or more.
     

Share This Page