Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Wheel/hub bearing help on my 10B front.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Chrisblazzer89, Jan 18, 2007.

  1. Chrisblazzer89

    Chrisblazzer89 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Posts:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Massachusetts 02301
    OK I need to replace my wheel bearings. The problem is I don't know how. Does any one have a link to a write up on this or have a write up that hasn't been posted yet or does any one have some good tips on this? The only reason I have to replace them is because I need to drive my truck to Hudson to put new axles under her (A 3/4 ton 10B and a 14BFF:D). So please I need all the help I can get. Thank you guys in advance.
     
  2. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2000
    Posts:
    15,954
    Likes Received:
    445
    Location:
    East of San Francisco
    If you're gonna drop in a new axle, why replace bearings? Especially since, all else being equal, you could just swap the 8-bolt outers off the 3/4 10-bolt onto yours. (Unless it's a better gear ratio, in which case, by all means switch the whole axle. But hang onto your old one for spare bearings, hubs, spindles, etc.)

    Search for the balljoint write up, as the hub/bearings are the first 2/3 of that.

    -- A
     
  3. obijuan

    obijuan 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Posts:
    4,009
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Antonio TX
    this is all off memory, so forgive me if i skip or forget something. uhh well first you take out your locking hub. then you come to a snap ring and then a spindle nut (you need a special socket for this) and then a lock washer !!use a set of picks to PULL out the locking ring!! it doesnt screw out. and then another spindle nut and the lock washer and inner nut have to mesh together properly. theres a little nipple thing on the inner nut and the locking ring has little holes to fit in. then i think you can pull the whole hub rotor off and then bang out your old bearing ans then easily bang in your new ones with the old bearing. i think thats pretyt much it. installation is the revers of removal. hope this helps.
     
  4. Chrisblazzer89

    Chrisblazzer89 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Posts:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Massachusetts 02301
    I have 3.08s in my current axles the 1 I'm swappimg in has 4.10s.

    The reason I'm replaceing the bearings is that I have to drive to Hudson
    (1 hour away) to swap my axles at my friends friend's shop.
     
  5. Chrisblazzer89

    Chrisblazzer89 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Posts:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Massachusetts 02301
    Ok guys I did a search and I cant find any thing. HELP!!!
     
  6. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2000
    Posts:
    15,954
    Likes Received:
    445
    Location:
    East of San Francisco
    I still don't get why you gotta replace bearings ... doesn't it have them now? Even if yours are toast ... well, whatever.

    ::shrug::

    The listing above is a short version... long version:

    http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARadjustableBallJoints/adjustableballjoints.htm

    same procedure for both adjustable and stock balljoints.

    -- A
     
  7. greyhoundjc

    greyhoundjc 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2005
    Posts:
    127
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Georgia
    If you have a chiltons manual available, there is some really good information in there inculding an exploded view of the locking hub.

    Obijuan gave a pretty good run down of what's involved. It will probably make more sense as your looking at it. You will need the specialty socket he mentioned. Most auto part stores have these. The first time I ever did it on my truck, I set up a video camera on a tripod and taped the process. After doing a couple of times, I can definetly say that it's nothing to be intimidated by.

    Although after you replace/repack your bearings, you will need to set the proper per-load on the bearings. You do this with a torque wrench and the hub socket. I don't have my manual in front of me, but I believe that it's something like, while rotating the wheel, torque to 50 ftlbs and then back off 3/8ths of a turn. Then torque to 35 ft lbs and then back off 1/4 turn.

    But as stated before, why would you replace the bearings if your swapping axles?
     

Share This Page