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Wheel Roll

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TXBIGFISH, Oct 2, 2001.

  1. TXBIGFISH

    TXBIGFISH 1/2 ton status

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    I am a owner of what I thought was a great 81' Jimmy. I have a couple of questions and was glad I found this site in 4 wheel and Off Road!! My Jimmy's wiring harness is a mess to say the least! I have no running lights but when I step on the brake, the running lights come on? Go figure. But to my problem. My truck on hard left or right turns has hard roll over, everything is tight though. The Dude I bought it from put street tires on it 275/60. Are the tires part of the problem? Also I neeed a good manual, I have a chiltons but the wiring diagram leaves something to be desired. Any suggestions? I thank all of you guys in advance, from surfing the site it seems like ther are some great guys out there helping each other out!
    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Welcome to ColoradoK5.com! Not sure what you mean by wheel roll, but I may have a solution to your electrical gremlin. There is a ground for the light harness that's behind the tail lights. You have to remove the tail light housings to see them. But when those get loose, all sorts weird things can happen with the electrical system. The fact that the lights come on when you hit the brakes makes me think that you'll find the grounds are loose and/or corroded back there.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeha Harry has the right Idea. Sounds like a ground problem. There is also some plugs up by tthe tail gate hinges that will soemtimes get corrosions in them and also check any aftermarket trailer wires.
    Few other things to check is the body main ground strap. Lots of wierd stuff happens when those are off. Gages jump when turn signals are on. some stuff works when lights off but doesn't when lights on. The strap is a braided deal. It mounts off the BACK of the passenger side head and goes to a bolt on the fire wall next to the HVAC box. With the hood on you really cant see this booger. Have to feel for it. People leave these off all the time with they pull the motor or they forget to dissconect them and tear them off when the lift the motor.
    As for the roll....is it lifted? Stock the handle pretty well but it is a truck, not a sports car. It has a high center of gravity and high profile tires. Tires can make all the difference. Look for tires with stiff sidewals like The BFG AT/s and MT/s. Or Michelin LT's. A passenger car tire just doesn't do well on a truck that size.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</a>
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  4. TXBIGFISH

    TXBIGFISH 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys, I have been under it all day so far. It looks like the firewall wiring block going to the fuse pannel might have gotten a little "crispy". The wires going to the rear, red, yellow, black, green, ribbon are crispy at the box. It looks like I need a new fuse block, Right? The wheel roll is when you turn it all the way left or right, it feels as if it is stop and go, it is not smooth at all, I know all chevy's do this my 99 S-10 does as well, but not this bad, could it just be the tires? I can hope! No it is not lifted.........yet. I'm going to get the 6" lift Friday a 4 wheel wholsalers where in town. I'm planing on putting on 33" or 35" tires. Any suggestions or advise on lift kits?
    Thanks,
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    If you look at the wires going into the back of the fuse box that is a plug. Well 3 plugs. take that bolt out of the middle and you can unplug it and seperate the harness's. Check the box for any damage. If the box is ok then you will need just the harness(s) that are damaged. One harness is the engine. One is the headlights and running lights, horn and one is the tail lights. Since the wires are damaged I would look for any fuses that are the wrong amperage. Sounds like there is a short somewhere and somebody put to big of fuse for the wires so the wires cooked instead of the fuse blowing.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</a>
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You can easily pop the individual wires out of the harness plug with a paper clip straightened out. As long as the wires have a bit of good insulation left right before it enters the plug, cut the bad sections off, get some wire the same diameter, some shrink wrap tubing, and solder the patch wires in place, then shrink wrap the joint.

    I personally would go to a 'yard and get the right COLOR wire, since you know that it will be the right diameter, and any time in the future you need to troubleshoot (or anyone else does) there will be no confusion due to multi colored wiring. Heck, if the entire harness is still on the 'yard truck (and matches yours) just cut it off and take the plug end and leave the wires connected. Then you just have one solder on each wire to do. Thats easier : )

    Changing the wire harness from the firewall to the rear tail lights is NOT a fun job with the body/gas tank in place.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: &lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&gt;http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&lt;/a&gt;
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  7. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    I dont know the problem for your electrical system... but if your getting a 6in lift go with 35" tires.. it makes it look alot better... me and my friend l have the exact same blazer... both white... both 6 in of lift. Hes running 33's mines running 35's mine stands noticibly taller than his. A suggestion.. if you could all springs or get the ORD 4" shackels and 2in springs that would be the best way to run a 6in lift.. you get a more stock ride with the 2in springs and the shackels prevent axle wrap when compared to blocks which is what i have =(


    6in 87' K5 w/ 35" BFG muds.
    305/Sm465/ NP208, 4.11's coming soon.
    Kn filter
     
  8. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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  9. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Is that body roll?

    Body roll is caused by: soft springs, soft shocks and or no anti-sway bar. Mined rolled like a drunken sailor before my lift! Now my back hurts, lol. It's a stiffness trade off. I would check out rough country but they are pretty stiff springs. Awesome offroad though and corner like a race car due to being stiff. If I remove my sway bar up fron I think it would soften up some.. Maybe try it this weekend..
     
  10. TXBIGFISH

    TXBIGFISH 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is that body roll?

    Dang, you guy's are DA BOMB!!!!!!! Ihave been working like a mad man all day on this! I finally have the wiring problem fixed...Some ROCKET SCIENTIST stuffed foil in the block for the rear tail lights. I ran some continuity checks, removed the spider web the previous owner left me and wal-lah... It all woks! You guy's have been a great help! I hope one day I can do the same for yall'.
    Later
     

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