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When do you need 35 spline stubs for a 60?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by stallion85, May 27, 2006.

  1. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Some of you might have heard I scored an M1008 last week. Well I thought life would be good now that I finally have a D60. Of course now I realize I have to drop some coin into it to actually be able to wheel with it. Locker, diff gaurd, x over steering, slugs, etc.

    I am running 37" MTR's and hammer down a lot in the rocks. Are the 30 spline stubs going to break on me? If I am going to spend the cash for some slugs, should i just get the 35 spline version as I will probably want them down the road?? I need a little direction here:crazy: :D
     
  2. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin Registered Member

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    35 spline is a cheep and easy upgrade, just do it. If you are going to be buying drive flanges you may as well upgrade then.
     
  3. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Well it really depends on your driving. If your easy on the skinny the stock stuff will hold up for quite a while. Your on the same tire as me and I have not snapped one yet. Only time I thought it might be a problem is when I was pulling another K5 off the rockpile at the Carlisle truck show. Locked front on pavement and turning while pulling him. I do plan to upgrade to 35 spline later in the year though when I regear. Here is a pic when the extraction was almost done.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    get some 35 spline 4340 yukon outters... cheap, and hella stronger than stock. If you have more coin, get the inners too. :thumb:

    j
     
  5. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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  6. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    thats not a bad price.

    i got my 35 spline outers for $100 off pbb then bought new u-joints. but i also got warn premo's, no slugs for me.
     
  7. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    You will be happy with them Jeff. I have them doing my build up and have been to their shop and I was impressed with everything I saw. They are not just satisfied to put out the same product as everyone else, they have innovated on almost everything they produce. Plus great customer service.

    Congrats on the d60. :D I wondered when you were gonna get one.
     
  8. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Max. I really like there products and have ordered from them before. How's your rig coming along? Are you going to make it to BB06'? I should be there, if I don't deploy overseas:(
     
  9. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Dope, I just read your sig. Got any pic's? :)
     
  10. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    I don't really get it either. The front D60 is supposed to be the Holy Grail of wheelin, but oh no you gotta have 35 spline outers, bigger shaft u-joints, slugs, etc... In my opinion I'd through a locker in there and run it like it is with 37s.

    If you do all the extras, don't be silly - like a certain CK5er I know - and leave the 1310 yoke on the axle.
     
  11. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    I'm keepin my D60 build nice and simple. I found a clean 60 that just needed brake pads and the rotors turned. So far I've added ORD crossover and I'm just going to throw a lockrite in there and call it good. Just going to wheel the **** out of it till I break parts then upgrade as I break.
     
  12. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    When you break 2 30 spl on the same weekend:haha:

    That's when I swapped em out. Run it til it breaks, then upgrade, IMO
     
  13. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Depends on a lot of things. It ain't the "Holy Grail". It's a needed upgrade for some, a "jump on the bandwagon" for others. The folks I know build axles to meet their needs. Does that make sense?
     
  14. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    I have a chromoed, ctm'd, ARB dana 44 with 37's and I have hammered down a lot on it:eek1: Not one break up front except for last year at Moab when an ox u joint decided to let the caps walk out. I was running 35's then. It's not so much that I needed the D60, but when I saw a running M1008 on craigslist I jumped on it. I have been looking for a 1 ton truck for a while at a good price, you just can't pass up a $1500 K30:D

    I was pretty much stuck at the 37" tire mark and will need that 60 under there to go bigger. Plus I am currently running 3.73's:eek1: Those 4.56 should make a great difference when crawling now.

    I am looking at this way now. $200 for some Warn premium hubs to replace the old ones or $369 for some new 35 spline stubs, slugs, and ujoints. It seems like it is worth it just get them now and be done with it.
     
  15. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I wasn't replying to you specifically, just in general. I think you have a firm grasp on what you need to do, and how to go about it;) , although...

    "I have a chromoed, ctm'd, ARB dana 44 " that thing can take a beating, see Rob:D
     
  16. 2High4U

    2High4U 1/2 ton status

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    off the subject.... but i never knew thay had rock crawling at carlisle goes to shows you where ive been. im only 45 or so min away.

    ill have to go next time they have one there!( to watch my 73 k5 is nearly nekkid)
     
  17. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    I didn't think you were replying to me:wink1: . I basically just made that post for those guys who have seen me defend my front axle. I basically wanted to let everyone know that it was a damn good axle and it has served me well. Time to pass it on to my buds Heep:D
     
  18. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    As already mentioned there are a lot of variables. I broke 2 and twisted 1 30-spline stub running 13/38 TSLs and a full locker over a period of about 2 years, but it took lot's of throttle and bouncing off rock ledges to do that.

    For the 1310 yoke.........don't see those break that often. That's what I have on mine and as mentioned it's survived several 30-spline stub breaks. The only 1310 u-joint that I know of that broke was in a 7,000 lb. fullsize truck running 42's and a big-block.
     
  19. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    yeah, the yoke on the diff shouldn't break before the axle shafts do... they are pre-gear-reduction right? D60s have what, 29-spline pinions? With 5 times less torque going into it, the pinion oughta hold up better than a stub.

    I think for anyone who is actually gonna offroad their rig an inexpensive shaft upgrade is a good idea. That is why I recommended Yukon 4340s. Cheap, much better material than stock... more material around the ears and they won't have a lifetime of wear/stress on them like the crusty old shafts that came from the junkyard 60.

    j
     
  20. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    hmmmm i am wheeling my stock 1979 gmc d60 with a detroit locker and stock gear... the only thing I have done was xover steering and brute force universals.... that is it.. hell i even have the old locking hubs where you spin the entire unit.....

    aint broke.... DONT F' WITH IT!!!! :haha:
     

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