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which lift first?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Rix_Gotta_Blazer, Jan 29, 2002.

  1. Rix_Gotta_Blazer

    Rix_Gotta_Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    i looked for previous post on this question before. i only got 1 result. i am planning on puttin a 4"suspension lift with a 3"body lift on my 81'k5. my question is, which lift should i put on first? suspension, or body? thanx 4 the input.

    i liked this bumper sticker i saw, "real Americans DRIVE American"
     
  2. AGM73k5

    AGM73k5 1/2 ton status

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    I'd say body first because then you don't have to lift the body as high when you do the body lift. Although with a 4 inch lift you would have some more room to maneuver underneath the truck. Then again the body lift gives you better access to the suspension. Someone with more experience doing body lifts will hopefully chime in on this one but I'd say do the body lift first.

    -Aaron

    ___ __ _ _ ____ __
    AGM73k5 -- ajgm1@yahoo.com
    Speed limits? <a target="_blank" href=http://www.ibiblio.org/rdu/p-sl.html>http://www.ibiblio.org/rdu/p-sl.html</a>
     
  3. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I would say to do the suspension lift first. That is the only way to gain more room under the frame. If done right it will also yield more flex and better offroad handling.
    I also would never put on a body lift (but most people arn't as picky as me).

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
     
  4. Rix_Gotta_Blazer

    Rix_Gotta_Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    my brother-in-law just put a 3"body lift on his 88 bowtie pickup. i dont know the manufactuer, but he got a complete kit with pucks, front bumper adapters, brake line extensions, and covers for the rear gap. is there such thing for a k5? thanks.

    i liked this bumper sticker i saw, "real Americans DRIVE American"
     
  5. Greenblazer-AZ

    Greenblazer-AZ 1/2 ton status

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    Do the suspension and forget the 3" body lift. If you want to do a body lift try the 1" ORD. With fender trimming you will be able to run pretty big tires. This will keep your center of gravity low enough to go offroad in places with hills and rocks. If you only want to play in the mud on basically flat ground then you shouldn't have a problem going higher. Three inch body lifts are a PITA, and require modifications to all kinds of things like steering shafts, shift linkages, and others. I'm not trying to bash anyones rig but first figure out what you want to do with it. Lots of lift is for mudding and pavement pounding. If you want to go on the hardcore rocks like Moab or anyplace with hills and off camber trails then a conservative lift is a good idea. I plan to build my rig as bulletproof as possible, and as versatile as possible, but I live in Arizona where mud is unusual, so my opinion is biased towards rigs that can crawl over rocks. The mud thing looks kinda fun, but livin' in AZ what good is a mud rig to me. Just my opinion.

    If you knew the truth, you too would be against marijuana prohibition!
    Blue '74 K5 Blazer Topless W/ 35 BFG Muds (See profile for pics)
     
  6. keeferk5

    keeferk5 Registered Member

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    I would skip the body lift and go with 4" suspen., shackle flip, and quick disconnects, this will give you more than enough flex. If you still want more don't go more than 1-1/2" on the body and look at the energy body lift. (all new poly bushings)

    My hotrod goes anywhere I want it to.
     
  7. scotty1

    scotty1 1/2 ton status

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    Go with the suspension lift first then if you need more room add the body lift. Remember as the suspension flexes your tire clearance will vary where as a body lift is constant no matter what the wheels are doing. You may only need a 2" or 1" body lift and not the 3", less is better. A body lift will not alter your center of gravity as much but will put increased side to side force on the suspension. Don't be afraid to trim the fenders either.

    Git there fastest with the mostest!
    Nathan Bedford Forest<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by scotty1 on 01/29/02 08:59 AM.</FONT></P>
     
  8. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    I recently did both and did the body lift first. It was the most hastle anyway because of all the things you have to modify - radiator cowl, steering, fuel fill, brake lines, etc. The suspension part was easier. Do the PITA part first - the Body Lift.

    By the way, I removed my body lift after both lifts were installed. I just didn't like it. I put new polyurethane bushings in instead and like it a lot better.

    Good luck with your project.

    Scott.
    _________________________

    "It's better than a sharp stick in the eye."
     
  9. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    OR you could do both lifts because thats what YOU want, and not really care who says not to do it, and why they don't think you should.....

    I personally don't care how much or how little flex I have, nor do I care what anyone else thinks about body lifts, I have a 4" suspension AND 3" body- and my truck doesnt go anywhere off-road. I built the truck for the looks, but hey thats just me
    The suspension was done first and then the body

    but again- build your truck the way you want it for what YOU want it for..... its nice to have advice from people, but thats only when its CONSTRUCTIVE critizism... not just saying "thats a pretty stupid idea" etc....

    Brandy

    LOVING the new Duramax!!!
     
  10. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with MudNurI. You have to build the truck the way you want to build it. I have 10-bolt axles with 4.56s gears, Detroit lockers front and rear and 35" BFG MTs. Many people would say I am nuts and that I should junk those axles, but I haven't.

    Your question wasn't should I do a body lift, but should I do it before or after the suspension lift. Here are my thoughts...

    Think about how you plan to use the truck. If you want looks only and don't want to trim the fenders and want big tires, you will need both body and suspension lift. I would probably do the body lift first. There is more fabrication involved there and more time/effort. Plus, without the suspension lift, it is easier to get your jack to reach the body.

    If you are just assuming you will need a 3" body lift, then I would recommend you do the suspension lift first. Try it out. See how your truck performs. All lifts ARE NOT created equal. I have a friend with a 4" suspension lift and 3" body lift. His truck sat about level with mine when I only had a 4" suspension lift. In other words, that may be enough for you. If you do end up needing more room, you can then decided how much and the best way to achieve it. Maybe trimming your fenders slightly would be plenty. Maybe adding only a 1" (which is easy) will be sufficient. And, if you still decide you want/need a 3", you will have more room under the rig to work on all the fab stuff. You can always build yourself a raised platform on which to set a floor jack to reach the body (ask me how I know).

    So, keep that in mind when you are building your rig. Take everyone's advice as their opinion based on their experiences, and then build your rig the way you want to build it. You are the only one that has to drive it and look at it on a regular basis.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  11. BLzr4x4ngkid

    BLzr4x4ngkid 1/2 ton status

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    I'll tell you this much, if you plan on going bigger than a 4" suspension put the body lift on now! I have a 9" suspension with 40" Boggers and I need to put my 3" body on to get the clearance. I don't even have a clue how the hell I'm going to get the body to lift having the truck already this tall. Guess that's something I'll have to think about. Good luck!!

    Pedal mashed and KICK'N ASS!
    WFO! Wide [censored]'n OPEN!
     
  12. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Lifting the body is fairly easy and can be done one of two ways:

    (1) Build some platforms for the jack to sit on. The fantastic guy that helped me (sluggo45acp) had a couple of platforms he had built. Looked as though they were basically a 2x8 box with 2x6s across the top. They were just big enough to set the jack on. You could use some 2x12 to build a square and then top it with 2x4s or 2x6s and counteract the effect of the suspension lift and then some.

    (2) Build you a T to set in you floor jack cradle. Take a 2x6 and cut it about 3' in length. Then, with the floor jack all the way down, measure the distance from its cradle to the bottom of the body where you plan to lift it. Take about 6" off that measurement and cut you a 4x4 to that length. Screw or nail the 2x6 onto the end of the 4x4 in a T shape. Then, set that in the cradle of the jack with it firmly on the ground. Lift the jack cradle until the 2x6 is pressing against the body and then have your way with it.

    If you use method #1, I still recommend using a cut 2x6 to spread the pressure of the lifting effort across the tub. Simply jacking directly against the tub can cause some serious damage.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  13. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    My oponion would be to do a 6" suspention and a 1" body lift. Also when doing a body lift replace the factory rubber mounts with some poly ones.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     

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