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Which parts off 1 ton?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rgd, Mar 10, 2001.

  1. rgd

    rgd Registered Member

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    I'm going to get the Dana 60 front out of a 1 ton crew cab tomorrow. The truck also has 350/SM465/NP205. I want the truck I'm building to have 454/TH400/NP205 & NP203 (doubler). I'm having trouble locating a TH400 out of a 4x4 (lots of 2wd boxes out there though). Should I get the 465 from this truck? The way I see it, I'll get the tranny with one of the transfercases I need already bolted together. If I really want to change to auto tranny I can do that down the road. What about the driveshafts? And refresh my memory - is the fixed yoke or slip yoke NP205 the most desireable?

    Thanks.

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by rgd on 03/10/01 03:11 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  2. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    You want the fixed yoke.
    The slip yoke was used on 80-only models and if you lose the driveshaft wile wheeling, you will also lose your fluid. :(
    -- Mike
     
  3. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>Take the trans and case out of the truck. You can use a 2WD TH400, you just need to change the output shaft, get a 4WD tailhousing and adapter shaft. I think you also need to machine out the 205 to accept a larger input bearing too. Fixed yoke 205s are more desirable than slip yoke 205s, but the slip yokes easily converted using fixed yoke parts. Take the driveshafts too and have the rear shortened. This way you can get a 1350 yoke on the rear driveshaft and not have to bother with the hybrid joint.</font color=blue>

    [​IMG]
     
  4. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You failed to mention what year the crew cab is. If I were you, go ahead and get EVERYTHING! I have a few fixed-yoke NP 205's to trade you for the 1 ton Np 205. Depends on the year of the truck first. I am looking for another slip-yoke NP 205 as a backup spare for my 82 K30.
     
  5. rgd

    rgd Registered Member

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    Actually thatK30guy, I don't know what year it is. I only jumped on it to get the front D60 for my next project. I think I'll see how much the guy wants for the tranny, Xfer and driveshafts as a package deal. Guess I should get the tires and rims as well so I can roll the chassis around when I finally get it together.
     
  6. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    K30 my 80 has a slip yoke that I want to swap for a fixed yoke. Maybe we can work something out if you're intrested.

    Jim '80 GMC
    Freedom First!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com>http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Is it mated to an automatic or four speed?
     
  8. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    It is mated to a TH350 auto. If the inputs don't match up we could just swap the output parts. That would also save on shipping.

    Jim '80 GMC
    Freedom First!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com>http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  9. rgd

    rgd Registered Member

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    Just thought of another question related to my initial post here. Is the steering pump or box any stronger on the 1 ton? Is this something else I should try to get?
     
  10. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Bigjbear, dang, I wished it mated to a 400. I really want the 400 input. Let me think about the 350 input.

    Rgd, the pump is different cuz it runs more lines from that to the hydro boost. You may as well take the whole shebang from the parts truck. It makes it easier to have everything on hand. You wont have to kick yourself saying "I wished I took that stuff off". Also, the stuff you take off make good cores at the parts stores for rebuilt units. About the steering box, I have heard the one ton boxes ARE different than the 1/2 and 3/4 tons. AGR Steering sells their boxes with a one ton piston. So, I am assuming these boxes use a bigger piston than the smaller counterparts. Dont know this answer for sure. May give AGR or someone else a call to confirm this. BTW, get everything you can off the parts truck. Its a hell of a lot easier to have everything than to go look around and scrounge for the pieces you need.
     
  11. rgd

    rgd Registered Member

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    Thanks again thatK30guy. I'll grab the steering box and pump out of it. When you say "get everything you can off the parts truck" what else do you have in mind? I don't know my way around these trucks all that well yet, and every part I want will cost me since the guy who is parting it out knows what parts are worth. I'm already buying the front axle, tranny, and transfercase. He's throwing in the wheels and tires (all stock) and a rear driveshaft out of a 3/4 ton he's parting out (the 1 ton rear shaft from the crew cab is 2-piece). He's not sure how much he wants for the front driveshaft yet, but if it's reasoble I'll buy that too. Pardon my ignorance, but what else is there? If it's not too much trouble could you give me some kind of list? Thanks.
     
  12. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    What about the frame and body? I have this thing about crew cabs, especially straight axle GM crewcabs. Just hate to see them disappear. Once they're gone, I'll probaby have to get a FORD, or solid swap a GM. Is it in decent shape? Where is it? Not like I can do anything about it since I have more trucks than I can store or work on right now.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  13. rgd

    rgd Registered Member

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    I know what you mean Stephen. Not too many crewcab 4x4s around. The sheetmetal doesn't look too bad on it. There's rust in the usual places but IMHO it's not that bad. The owner says he initially bought it with the intention of restoring it as a daily driver, but now thinks it's too rusted. He's parting it out and then bringing the rest to the scrap yard. BTW, there's an emblem behind the rear door that reads "3+3". What does this stand for?
     
  14. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, to take everything you can would mean:
    Get all the accessories for the 465/205 assembly. Such accessories would be everything from the bellhousing back. Get the bracket that bolts on top of the frame for the shift pedals. Take the shifter boots out from inside, even if they have a tear in them. Take the metal plates that hold the boots to the floor. If you have an automatic-equipped truck, get the pedals out from under the dash. On the t-case, since its a 205, look for the wires that plug into the case for the "4wd light" on the dash. Its simply a wire that plugs into the case. Just cut the wires back about 12" to splice into your existing wires. I think the plug-in ends are different on the 208's and 205's. Take the crossmember that holds the tranny and case. Take the driveshafts. Keep all bolts and hardware. Are you getting the rearend? If so, take all the brakelines and hardware even for the parking brake assembly. Even the little brackets that hold different cables together are right there for you so you wont have to go on another search for them. Such brackets are the little clips, etc. Take all u-bolt plates.
    All in all, basically "clean" the truck of its drivetrain. Most of these parts are discontinued from the dealership. Stuff like those little clips and brackets are no longer available. Take everything you think you would NOT need. This is just extra caution to prevent you from going back to get what you forgot and having to pay more for just that little part when you get it all cheaper at one time.
     
  15. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    3+3 refers to 3 people in front and 3 people in the back.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  16. rgd

    rgd Registered Member

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    Understood thatK30guy. Thanks once more.
    3 in front and 3 in back huh? Who'd a thunk. It's pretty obvious now that I think about it.
     

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