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Which u-joints?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by fortcollinsram, Jul 18, 2002.

  1. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    I need to get some u-joints for a driveshaft out of a late-70's K20...I am going to get the driveshaft cut to fit my Blazer...I have a 205 and a 14bff...I want to do it right and get Spicer u-joints...what spicer joints do I need? Again it for a 205 t-case and a 14bff rear axle... Thanks a bunch...

    Chris
     
  2. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Do you already have the larger yoke on the 205?

    I think these will both be 1350 joints.

    Worse case, take your yoke down to your driveline guy. He should be able to hook you up.

    Good luck.
     
  3. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    No the yoke on the 205 is what ever came on it in 1976 /forums/images/icons/grin.gif I thought the u-joint at the axle was a 1350 but I didn't know about the one at the t-case...

    Chris
     
  4. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Right, so a good drive-line man (woman) will suggest a 1 ton yoke... (~$80- $125) Then you get 1350s on boths sides. Unless of course, you don't plan on putting that much stress on your rear driveshaft! /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    Then again, maybe you WANT to know what will break when you go out.. this will be the weak link... therefore you know what to replace when you hear the POP/snap. Then it hits the underside of your body.. and does all sorts of neat little scratches and damage...

    BTW: The last two driveline guys I went to changed the U-joints when they built the driveline. Only when I specifically tell them NOT to change the joints is it NOT done. Also, usually the driveline guys show me WHY my shafts needs to be rebuilt and it goes and runs me about $180 for new rear driveshaft... then I had to get a yoke (he said he would cut me a break) at $75 for a one ton yoke. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
     
  5. 73blazerUSMC

    73blazerUSMC Registered Member

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    topoff has a good point u-joints are a good thing to leave as the weak link they are cheapet to fix than a whole new driveshaft or something else i know its tempting to t put those bomb proof 1410's on there but they usualy cause something else to let loose my 2 c
     

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