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Who has replaced the front floor pan and/or rocker pannel?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by **DONOTDELETE**, Feb 16, 2002.

    how big of a PIA is it to cut the old sh!t out? like separating the old pan from the supports and what not. trying to deside if it's a project i want to tackle or not. i have access to a mig and the replacement panels are cheep. anyone???

    also anyone know of other sources of replacement panels besides LMC and JC Whitney?

    <font color=blue>You think you're excited, feel my nipples!

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  1. 4x4k20

    4x4k20 1/2 ton status

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    i just started this morning cutting out my rockers and rt side floorboard it is a big pia i have found that there is more to it than most people say i was doing good until i cut to much out and the more i keep finding out that is rusted and needs to be replaced i an begining to wonder why i even want to keep my blazer but i have to much money invested in it to not go ahead and fix it really its not that hard to replace the panels but i have places rusted that they dont have panels for that i am going to have to find a way to fix them because i love my blazer

    4x4k20
     
  2. so how did you go about seperating the floor pan from the supports underneeth? also, are you just replacing the front/outside of the rocker or both sides? does the new piece give you the thin ridge for the weatherstripping? thanks,

    jason

    <font color=blue>You think you're excited, feel my nipples!

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  3. kumma

    kumma 1/2 ton status

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    Its a big job dont think otherwise. I have done rockers, front floor and entire rear floor pan. Took approx 2 months of working outside a couple days a week. What you see is only part of the problem, you will cut out a lot more than you think, dont be afraid to cut out bad metal, if you dont you'll do it later. Body panels are cheap but you invest a lot of time in the job welding, fitting, grinding, ect... Oh my truck drives like new now rock solid no more rattles, shaking or squeaking.

    good luck

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.plymouthscreenprinting.com>www.plymouthscreenprinting.com</a>
     
  4. jcg

    jcg 1/2 ton status

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    My rockers were rotted out so I just replaced them with rocksliders. I figured it would take a weekend but once I started cutting I found quite a bit more rust than I wanted too. It ended up taking me 2 weeks to finish it, working for about 4 hours after work every day and all day on the weekends. I guess I could have gotten it done quicker but I wanted to take the time and make sure I got all the rust taken care of for good. There's still some left in the lower walls right behind the doors but I don't have time to fix that now cause that's an even bigger project. That's gonna have to wait till spring.

    Joe
    RIT Mini-Baja www.rit.edu/~bajawww
    Team Mudnuts www.mudnuts.org
     
  5. i'm running into the same problem. i have rust in places that they don't make panels for. i guess i'd have to get some regular sheet metel stock and make it work. sounds like a lot of work though. might not be worth it on my beater burb.

    <font color=blue>You think you're excited, feel my nipples!

    </font color=blue>
     
  6. Ok, so would it be just as much work and effort to make my own floor and rockers? the rockers i don't see as a problem but the floor would be a trick. the spots where the seats mount are all good but just about everything else is nasty or see though.

    <font color=blue>You think you're excited, feel my nipples!

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  7. 4x4k20

    4x4k20 1/2 ton status

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    look for small round spots take a 1/4 drill bit and drill out this is where the factory spot welded them together you can do the same on the rockers i am going to replace both sides of mine go to www,goodmarkindustries.com they have pics of panels to veiw

    4x4k20
     
  8. hammer

    hammer 1/2 ton status

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    rockers are $11 each and I bought sheet metal from work to do the floor 100 lbs. for $1 and started patching the floor. It took longer than I wanted to with 2 kids to take care of every night, mostly weekends only

    <font color=red>Let me at it I can break it</font color=red>
     
  9. 502Burban

    502Burban 1/2 ton status

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    I've done this, too. Another way to attack the problem, and be sure you get out all the cancer, is to sandblast the area. This will remove the rust and leave you with clean metal that you can work with.

    I did the whole truck because it had LOTS of rust in multiple locations. But, it would be pretty inexpensive to just rent a portable blaster and do the footwell area. Then you know how bad it is, and don't end up chasing the rust all over.

    I just used the LMC repair panels. What others have said about drilling out the spot welds is good advice. It also helps to have access to an air compressor and air hammer with a chisel attachment. This works very well for separating the panels.

    You can see some pics of the repairs I did at my Webshots site, below, under the main album.

    Good luck,

    Robb
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/robbrj>'73 GMC Suburban - 502DFI</a>
     

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