Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Who here runs alot of MUD?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Calclips, Jul 15, 2002.

  1. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    Hey all, I was just wondering who here runs alot of mud? I'm working on getting an offroad only mud-toy and what I wanna know is what do you guys do to your rigs when you get them home? What maintenance do you guys do to keep everything in the drivetrain from getting all messed up after only a few runs? any information is very appreciated.
     
  2. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2001
    Posts:
    3,806
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Allenton, MI
    Change dif fluids as often as you are willing too. Change oil every couple times out. Air filter just about every time out. I repack axle bearing twice a year, spring and fall.

    MI is all about mud... oh yeah!!!

    Ken H.
     
  3. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2002
    Posts:
    13,079
    Likes Received:
    247
    Location:
    Mobile, Al.
    All of the above and depending on if there was alot of water I sometimes pull the locking hubs to see if there looks to be water in the bearing grease. As far as cleaning, I usually let a lawn spinkler run under my truck for an hour or so before I start cleaning it, it doesn't really do a lot of cleaning but the mud comes off easier when it's wet. You might have to pull the wheels every now and new to clean out the brakes also.
     
  4. kickinasphalt383

    kickinasphalt383 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2001
    Posts:
    224
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Michigan
    well because i mud my daily driver. i replace the front diff fluid everytime i go through deep water... regrease bearings probably every 4 or 5 runs (which turns out not to be enough since i replace bearings 1 or 2 times a year... lifetime waranties rule!), regrease joints and tie-rods after every good run, and replace rear diff fluid after a few good runs.

    yeah Michigan mud is great when there isn't a drought and there isn't any mud /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  5. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    Sweet, thats the info I was looking for (although I had a pretty good idea that is what you guys were gonna say, I just wanted to hear it from someone else)
     
  6. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2002
    Posts:
    707
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Madera, CA
    WD40 your undercarriage before you head out and the mud comes off A LOT easier. K&N sells a mud bag for their air filters, it really does help to keep the big stuff from gumming up your filter, also helps in sand. If you get real deep you will want to seal your distrubutor while your in the mud, just be sure to unseal it afterward. Make sure you hose out your radiator and any oil coolers you have. To help your diff. lube extend your axle breathers higher up, mine run to my firewall with little K&N filters on top /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Run moly grease in your hubs, it lasts longer when its wet, once a year take apart you locking hubs and grease the snot out of them. And for the interior you can do what a few of us have done and put in the polyurethane bedliner stuff (Rhinoliner, Herculiner) in place of your carpeting, I have also gotten the neoprene seatcovers. When I pull my stereo amps I have a completely hoseable interior /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  7. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2002
    Posts:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Frankfort In
    hey trailblazer, i do basically the same thing only i use cooking spray. its a hell of a lot cheaper. or, u can also u se baby oil. o, i have a snorkel so i dont worry bout da mud and water no more /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif

    NITRO
     
  8. Bullet

    Bullet 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2001
    Posts:
    1,222
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Abilene, Texas
    Get yourself a non-flamablegrease/lubricant or tire spray and cover your whole chassis and wheel wells. My Jimmy is my daily driver and I go offroading/muddin every other weekend and get pretty nasty. The mud comes off pretty easy once the spray is applied. You also need to put the non-flamable spray on your engine to make an easy clean up. Check your fluids like everyone said, I didn't and turn the oil in my Dana 60 to a nasty milky color, NOT GOOD! Thats a very good way to ruin your axle, so i learned my lesson the hard way. My interior is Rhino linned so its a very easy clean up interior wise, all i need is a hose and some elbow grease. And besure to grease the U-joints/Driveshafts/Balljoint or Kingpins with marine grease /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  9. uglychevyZZ4

    uglychevyZZ4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2002
    Posts:
    6,094
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Black Diamond, Wa
    you can also avoid changing the diff stuff every trip, if you, ( and you should anyways!! ) junk the stock diff vents, and make them longer, run them up to like hood heigth, or bed heigth, and youll have no need to keep changing the fluid, itll stay clean. mines a year old, and has seen alot of DEEP, and just popped cover, and it was clean still /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    also, clean out the brakes, and drums well, itll save $$$$, grit isnt good for the surface or pads especially wheel cylinder boots.,and 14FF seals dont like it either. unless your like me and need them turned anyways /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  10. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    sweet, thanks alot guys
     
  11. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,582
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Alberta Canada
    Hey, dont go changin your diff fluids, t-case, tranny and engine oil after every trip. Just check the oil. If you got water in them, you will see it, then change it. Otherwise, its good. You definately have to make an attempt to keep the mud out of places where it shouldnt be. And drain the places where you cant keep it out. Ignition wiring, distributor cap, air cleaner, diff vents, etc.

    Mike
     
  12. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    Okay, you guys said to take apart the hubs and pack them with marine grease, and to pack the bearings too. Are there any write-ups on CK5 or anywhere on the net on how to do these? I know I could probably figure it out, but I like to have an idea of what I'm getting into before I dive on in.
     
  13. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    Oh, the truck I'm talking about would be an 84 3/4 ton.
     
  14. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2002
    Posts:
    707
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Madera, CA
    If you are running Warn manual hubs (you should), there is a ring that prevents the inner spine shaft from coming out of the outer spline shaft. To remove that ring get a small flathead screwdriver or a dental pick and try to pull that ring off, you will see that it is just a wound spring, pull the locking hub apart and clean it real good, then grease it up, put the shafts back together, then put the ring in, and your good to go. As for bearings, go out and get a twin cone bearing packer, it costs about $5.00 at Pep Boys, and really gets the grease in them, you will need a grease gun with marine grease. Put the bearing in the packer and grease them up, put the bearing back in the truck and go /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  15. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    dosen't sound hard at all, and if it helps keep everything working good then it is worth the work.
     
  16. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2002
    Posts:
    5,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rochester, N.Y
    yea some what like my dad does with the bearings on are boat trialer..cause the trailer and bearings all get submerged under water quite often as you can imagine..lol /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif

    Bryan
     
  17. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2002
    Posts:
    707
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Madera, CA
    A friend of mine modified his hubs and put a zerk fitting in his warn hubs so he can grease his locking hubs in a pinch /forums/images/icons/grin.gif I'm not sure how he did it but it looks funny when he pulls one of the bolts from his cap and lets the water out and then puts a grease gun to his hub and greases up right there /forums/images/icons/cool.gif I haven't quite grown the b /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif lls to modify mine like that yet, but I am seriously considering it.
     

Share This Page