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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by HispanicPanic, Jun 15, 2001.

  1. HispanicPanic

    HispanicPanic 1/2 ton status

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    WTF could be wrong my brakes i put in a new booster, M-cylinder, adjusted rear brakes, new front brakes,new calipers, bled the M-cylinder, bled all brakes in order and the damn brakes still feel F-up they just wont lock up when i slam on the brake i also checked for lines being cracked or some type of leak but found not a damn thing wrong
    Symptom- to make a complete stop the brakes have to go all the way down but its not like a spongy or soft they feel fiine till you look at your foot and realize the foot is all the way down to the floor and when i'm driving and slam on them they go down and hard but only when they are all the way down do they get hard. hope someone knows the answer thanx guys/gals

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://jimjim.coloradok5.com>http://jimjim.coloradok5.com</A> Not all Hispanics drive lowriders
     
  2. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Maybe a proportioning valve? Could be a leaky wheel cylinder too.

    I'm so poor I can't even pay attention [​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
     
  3. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    When I did my one ton conversion last month, we basically ended up with new brakes front and rear and had to go through two quarts of brake fluid just to get what you feel..........POWER BLEEDING is the answer. Had it done and the pedal is now high and hard. Seems so hard to bleed and get all the air out the traditional ways...........hope this helps. Cost me $60 by the way and you will for sure have all new fluid in your system.

    <font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazzinor.alloffroad.com>http://www.blazzinor.alloffroad.com</A>
     
  4. denver75k5

    denver75k5 1/2 ton status

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    Bad rubber brake lines may be expanding???
    Just a guess.....
    Mine did that till i got ss brakelines....


    Jeep Thing,? Ya i ran over one!
     
  5. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    I think they need to get power bleed also.....Dan
     
  6. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    The other posts are good ideas. Another thought. Sometimes the proportioning valve gets stuck, forcing all the fluid to the rear brakes. Jack up the front, and hit the brakes. Any force on the brakes? That'll tell you if that's it.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://fwp4x4.rockcrawler.com>http://fwp4x4.rockcrawler.com</A>
     
  7. HispanicPanic

    HispanicPanic 1/2 ton status

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    i was thinking the proportioning valve but who sells it ?

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://jimjim.coloradok5.com>http://jimjim.coloradok5.com</A> Not all Hispanics drive lowriders
     
  8. Motoronbrain

    Motoronbrain Registered Member

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    I had to redo all my brakes on 71 and I could never get the spongy feeling out until I unhooked all lines and pushed air throughout them. I found an easy way to bleed them also. I took the old cap off the old master cylinder drilled a hole to put a male air fitting in to it. I then put the cap on, turned my air compressor down to about 10 pounds of line pressure bled the brakes. Low and behold I have a stong pedal, enough to lock up my 35's. The cap can be flipped around to do the fronts also.You can do all by yourself too. Helped with my relationship with my wife, no longer needed her.
     
  9. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Napa has them - I've never picked up one for a K5, but one for a Ford F350 cost $28.00

    I'm so poor I can't even pay attention [​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
     
  10. HispanicPanic

    HispanicPanic 1/2 ton status

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    ok let me get this straight before i POP my master cylinder you got an old master cover cylinder cover drilled a hole and inserted a fiting to accept the compresser hose put it back on the master cylinder and turned on your compresser to 10 psi now stupid question but you did have fluid in there and all you have to do is go to the bleeder valve and open it till you see nothing but fluid right ?

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://jimjim.coloradok5.com>http://jimjim.coloradok5.com</A> Not all Hispanics drive lowriders
     
  11. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Motoronbrain,
    Sounds like a cool solution but I don't quite get how pushing more air through the lines is gonna bleed the system? Could you give me a little more explaination please?

    Stuck is a state of mind!

    Mudstud
    76K5 sb400/350/203parttime/3.73-D44/GM12 locked
     
  12. Motoronbrain

    Motoronbrain Registered Member

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    I first unhooked my master cylinder and before I put the new one on I opened all beeder valves. I then put about 80 psi through all lines. There was some gunk that came out of my back brake lines. When I felt comfortable that the lines were clean, hooked closed lines put on new master cylinder, put in brake fluid in, put on the cap with the male fitting, and turned down my line pressure to about 10 psi. This way you don't blow any thing up. I did the back first because they are the hardest for me to do. By the time I went back to bleed them, cranked open bleeder valve and presto, enough brake fluid to call it a fountain of youth. then did the front by fliiping cap to the front side and bled them. Hope this answer your questions, if not I will try again.
     
  13. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    The part I don't get is do you have to keep adding fluid as it gets pushed through the lines or are you saying to just hold the air to it for a few seconds?

    Thanks man, bet you didn't realize what you were getting yourself into trying to explain this sh#t.

    Stuck is a state of mind!

    Mudstud
    76K5 sb400/350/203parttime/3.73-D44/GM12 locked
     
  14. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    I think that he's basically made a power bleeder. Instead of having someone pump the pedal to push the fluid through, he's using the 10 lbs of pressure from his compressor to push the fluid through. I like it.
    No more "pump....pump...pump...pump....pump....ok hold it. no honey I said HOLD IT!!!!!"[​IMG]

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>SEMPER FI TO MY BLAZER
     
  15. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    I understand that! It just seems that when the reservoire goes empty the lines are gonna get air pushed into them again. Seems like in order to do this he'ld have to have a large volume of brake fluid in the reservoire-enough fluid to complete the trip through the lines and leave some in the master cylinder. Am I making this more difficult than it really is. I bet the next time I read this I'll understand all of this. It's late I gotta get to bed.

    Stuck is a state of mind!

    Mudstud
    76K5 sb400/350/203parttime/3.73-D44/GM12 locked
     
  16. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    When you bleed your brakes don't you periodically check the level of your fluid? If my fluid comes out black I bleed them untill it's clean. Even if I do have to fill it a couple of times.[​IMG]

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>SEMPER FI TO MY BLAZER
     
  17. Motoronbrain

    Motoronbrain Registered Member

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    Yes I periodically check to make sure I have'nt ran out off brale fluid. I forgot one thing that don't cut through the rubber gasket, it works as a bladder. When I bleed my brakes this way I didn't go through that much brake fluid. I was confident that I got all the air out, wereas before I was never sure. Try it, I was tottally frusterated till some one told me to power bleed them. Didn't want to pay and came up with this solution. Good Luck hope this helps out.
     
  18. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I was having probs bleeding mine because I was leaving the rubber boot on the fluid resivour(spelling) and it was creating a back presure. You might just get them bled at a shop like Les Swab.
     

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