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who makes new clutch linkage?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by slowk5, Jan 6, 2006.

  1. slowk5

    slowk5 Registered Member

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    I think theres a company that make new linkage,that has rod ends on it.Mine have a ton of slop in them.Does any one know the name of the company?It should help the linkage not bind too! Any help would by great!
     
  2. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Why not upgrade to a hydraulic setup?

    Probally be cheaper in the long run... I think I paid 5 bucks for a master, 5 for a slave, and 50 bucks for a hydro bellhousing and hydro pedals.

    After that, it was a matter of simply drilling three holes in the firewall, and bolting it all up. Took me an afternoon to accomplish.
     
  3. slowk5

    slowk5 Registered Member

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    i going too,but for now i thought new linkage would get me by.Ill start to keep my eye out for the parts.
     
  4. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    I just went to NAPA and got a 3/8" heim joint and some threaded rod.
     
  5. slowk5

    slowk5 Registered Member

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    Thats a great idea!!
     
  6. drofdar

    drofdar 1/2 ton status

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    I did the heim joint, threaded rod thing too. Works great!

    108_0843.JPG

    108_0845.JPG

    108_0846.JPG
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    A few tips!..

    You can put 1/8" pipe over the 3/8 threaded rod for extra beef against bending.(or bend it to match,and weld it onto the threaded rod)...also,you can weld a peice of flat stock from the arm on the "Z" bar with the two holes in it in the first photo,and weld it near the zerk fitting ,to "truss" it so it wont bend..;)

    I put a lot of new 12" 3 finger style clutches in trucks for nothing because it was the "Z" bar bending and flexing,and NOT the clutch itself going bad!..nothing worse than getting that ball breaking job done,then finding out the clutch couldn't be adjusted,due to bent "Z" bars,or linkage rods!..and no wonder the old clutch still looked fine!..:doah:

    We "upgraded" many plowing trucks with the threaded rod with pipe over it,and the "trussed" "Z" bars,especially if it had the 12" 3 finger pressure plate!..and we used heim joints too,a plow truck clutch sees a lot of in/out action in every storm!..and fixing linkage sucks during a blizzard...:crazy:
     
  8. ramses

    ramses 1/2 ton status

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    So does putting the heim joint in actually help with the clutch binding much when flexing? And does anyone have any pics of how to truss the linkage? I was going to go hydro but id really rather do this setup if it works much better than stock.
     
  9. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hydro better..

    Nothing beats a hydro clutch setup if your twisting and flexing the truck a great deal..but many of the rotbox trucks I fixed had cabs with rotted mounts,that would actually lift up and down as you depressed and released the clutch pedal!..and they rarely "lost" the linkage..

    We added a hefty return spring,that ran alongside the linkage,with tabs welded to the linkage that the spring went thru,so it kept tension on the fork and linkage,and prevented it from slipping out of place..some would still slip out though..mechanical linkages can only be moved so far before the misalignment takes it toll..

    To "truss" the "Z" bar,all it takes is a flat stock peice the same thickness and length as the lever that your bracing,laid at about a 45 degree angle from just under the holes the linkage go into--to near the center of the tube where the grease fitting is..so it makes like a "triangle"..that lever is fairly flimsy the way it comes stock,just one end butt welded to the tube..

    _I\___ < --kinda like that! :crazy:
     
  10. ramses

    ramses 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah my truck does that a little bit too lol, I still havent gotten around to putting my new cab mounts in. So if I truss the linkage and do the heim joint thing, how well do you think it will work? I dont flex my truck too bad very offten, so I think this setup may be worth a shot. What would be the weak link in this setup? Ive seen a couple trucks that have had the linkage come off where it goes onto the transmission, what causes that and is there any way to help keep that from happening?
     
  11. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    not much...

    Its always the tranny side of the linkage that seems to fall off..it just sits in a depression in the fork,and the return spring's tension is all that really holds it there--one guy tried drilling a hole thru the fork,putting a rocker arm "ball" on the threaded rod where it pushes on the fork,with nuts on both sides,so it couldn't come apart..

    It worked great for quite awhile,but one day as he was climbing uip a large snowbank,his cab flexed enough to pull the fork out of the bellhousing!..its only held in with a wire clip,or a spring steel one,depending on the year..so its not a bullet proof setup...with hydraulics,that rubber flex line can move enough so that the cab would have to lift a foot or more before you'd lose it,and your clutch!..:crazy:
     
  12. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    I bought a new rod, and all the z-bar parts, and rod bushings from gmpartsdirect.com. Takes all the slop out. My rod ends were worn half the diameter through. I welded the z-bar holes and re-drilled them the right diamter, because those were worn too.
    Worn body mounts cause alot of slop as well, have someone push the pedal while you get out and watch, you'd be surprise, I've watched cabs lift off of the frame before.
    That's a nice looking heim rod though.
     
  13. slowk5

    slowk5 Registered Member

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    hey thanks everyone for all the good feed back,think am going to go hydro!Do it right the 2nd time!
     

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