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whole slew of newbie questions

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by avgjoe, Sep 5, 2002.

  1. avgjoe

    avgjoe Registered Member

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    I'm new to the 67-72 4wd scene. I've alway's been in the 73-87(91) range. Any help with the given, right off the bat upgrades for these trucks would be great. So fill in the blank-"First off you should (need to) ________."

    P.S. I saw something about moving the rear axle forward or something. I'm looking for things like this, needed bracing, etc.
     
  2. jc71355

    jc71355 1/2 ton status

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    Get rid of any RUST!!! It's the devil, but you probably allready knew that. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  3. aksidentproan

    aksidentproan 1/2 ton status

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    Some people will tell you that if you run bigger then 35's you need to move the front axle forward 1.5 inches and the back axle back 1.5 inches to keep scrubbage to a minimum. Other then that I cant think of anything else that is "needed" but probably alot of wants.

    Evan
     
  4. avgjoe

    avgjoe Registered Member

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    So from the factory the wheels are not centered (from front to back) in the wheel well? In case you haven't seen my other post, I'm looking to swap the whole suspension and drivetrain from my 84 K5 to a 68 C10. Since I'll have free reign as far as the axle install, would now be a good time to improve on any placement issues?

    In other words should I use a stock truck for my pattern, or would it be better to play it by ear and put them where they will look/work better?
     
  5. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    id say put them where thewy will work the best.any mod that doesnt work you will end up changing again and im not into doing things twice or three times,but that is usually what i have to do to get it right.then at least i have that experience and dont have to do it but once next time or next project. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  6. rrent

    rrent 1/2 ton status

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    First things I'd recommend -
    1.) check saftey - brakes, steering, gas lines, and the like and then
    2.) DRIVE IT 'till something breaks and then DRIVE IT some more
    3.) repeat step two as needed

    congratulations - 1st gens. are cool and good luck
     
  7. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    AVG,

    I think you meant move the rear axle BACK...not forward?

    On the 1st Gens (and probably the later models too) the axle is strangley close to the forward edge of the fender. It becomes VERY obvious as you add larger tires.

    ORD Zero-Rates can help you move it back 1.5" which would be about perfect. It is kind of an aesthetic thing unless you are also planning to run BIG tires....then it becomes a clearance issue also.

    What are your overall plans for the truck? Besides putting the other suspension under it, of course.....

    /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  8. avgjoe

    avgjoe Registered Member

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    I'd like to swap the 6" lift from the 84 if I can. Then I already have a 454,a 5 speed from a 94 1 ton,(so I'll have to swap the hydraulic clutch) and an NP203. I won't put a $2000.00 paint job on this truck, but I will try to keep it clean. I will NOT build a truck that I won't to take off-road. I'm not a hardcore wheeler-I baby my trucks too much- but I do like to trail ride and hit some mud on occasion. This combo gets suprisingly good gas mileage. I used to have a 72 and regret ever getting rid of it, so now it's time to get another one.
     
  9. avgjoe

    avgjoe Registered Member

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    I'm running 35 x 12.50 Pro comp m/t's on 15x12 589's. Will they fit one of these trucks w/ 6" of sus. lift?
    If I went w/ 2" of body lift could I run 38-39's?
     
  10. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    AVG,

    I'm running a 4" lift with 2" body and currently have 38.5 Swampers under mine. No rubbing in the rear. Some fender munching up front! /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif

    If you were willing to use a total of 8" of lift, it should be a lot easier for you. I had to do a LOT of little tweaks to make the big tires fit the way I wanted. I really like the "small lift, big tires" look, and it keeps the weight down lower which feels more stable offroad.

    Now that Moab's over, I should get off my butt and post some updated pics in my Gallery!
     
  11. avgjoe

    avgjoe Registered Member

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    I'm with you on the "small lift-big tires" issue as well as the more stable feel. I don't run a sway bar, and that doesn't help. There aren't many rigs like these around my area (most of them are 2wd lwb work trucks.) So I'll probably be asking some pretty dumb questions from time to time.
     
  12. uglychevyZZ4

    uglychevyZZ4 3/4 ton status

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    list of to do:

    1-start reading posts, then in 9 months, if you have any questions, and dont know what to do first it ok, we understand, this site is like a baby in a candy store for info....its all here somewhere baby /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    2-try search if you are looking for a quick answer, its probly been discussed.or even pm a contact.

    3-get rid of the 10 bolt crap-o-la and slam some 1 ton in there, best upgrade youll make ever.

    4-dont do it in your GRAVEL / ROCK driveway /forums/images/icons/wink.gif it hurts. I still have scabs and cuts and 2 bruises from mine 2 months ago /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    5-feel welcome here, you are home /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     

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