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Wholly overheating problem!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by afroman006, Jul 19, 2003.

  1. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    What a damn day. This morning I replaced the cap and rotor and plug wires on my burb. Drove it across town (bout 20 minutes on the highway) with no problems. I stopped for about 30 minutes then took off again, this time not on the highway. While I was drivin in city traffic, it started vibrating a little bit while accelerating and vibrated like hell when I was braking. Well I got where I was going and did a quick look around and didnt notice anything wrong at the time so I went and left it for about 5 hours.

    Went back out to leave and it wouldnt start. Would roll over at first then seemed like starter solenoid would disengage and starter would turn but engine wouldnt. So got a ride with a friend to the gf's house to get her truck then went back to my house to get my tools and some sparkplugs I had there. Went back and changed all the sparkplus and while doin that noticed a bulge hole right by the water neck on the upper radiator hose. The intake manifold was stained with rusty water so I guess its been leakin for awhile. After I changed all the plugs and cut the damaged part of the hose out, it started just fine and I drove about 10 minutes half city half highway to a friends house on the way home. On the way there, it had started doin the bad vibes thing again. So we got to his house and there was white smoke coming from under the hood. We opened it and looked around and the smoke smelled like burning rubber. Then my friend pointed out that the exhaust manifolds were glowing red. So I called my mom to come and get me.

    Tomorow, I plan on going over there and flushing and reverse flushing the radiator (the coolant is rust colored), maybe replacing the thermostat, taking a look at the water pump and power wash the [I love Jeeps] outta the radiator. What else should I check? I just got it back from the body shop too, so it has been gone for about 3 weeks allready /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif.

    P.S. This morning when I replaced the ignition stuff I also refilled the radiator (which was below anywhere where I could see). When it wouldnt start I checked the level again and it was about half-empty again. I assume this was from the hole in the rad hose. When I came back with the parts I checked it again and this time it was about 4" below the top but this time it hadnt been ran at all. What gives? There was no coolant on the ground under it.

    P.P.S. My temp gauge is broke /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif, how do I fix it?
     
  2. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I think someone had a problem similar to this a few years ago and it turned out to be a clogged cat converter. Something about the bad vibes and glowing manifolds must have jarred my memory. Maybe I'm way off and someone else can point you in the correct direction. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  3. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    If the hose was in that condition, replace it, and check the lower hose too.

    Replace the sender for the gauge if it is a factory unit, and check the wires from the sender to the gauge.

    The Cat could also be contributing to this overheating problem. Not sure on the vibration issue, maybe a tire is seperating????
     
  4. fatboy

    fatboy 1/2 ton status

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    check your timimg may be it slipped or the distributor is lose? perhaps? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  5. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, I'll replace the hoses today. Where is the sender for the gauge and where can I get a new one? Once I get it movin again, I'll take it to the mufler shop and have the cat replaced. See, the problem with this whole ordeal is the engine only has 9000 miles on it but the rest of the truck has like 198000. I dont know if any of the accesories were replaced along with the engine or not. Is there any way I can check on the tires? They are very worn down (i.e. in need of replacement) BFG A/T's. My friend was using some BFG A/T's on his flatbed trailer and one blew, threw all the tread and the tire looked like someone has gone around it and cut it crosswise down to the bead every 2 inches. I'm about to get lifted and new tires anyway but I dont want to have to buy 1 new A/T to hold me over till then /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Thx for all the help.
     
  6. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    1. The sender for the gauge is usually on the drivers side head between #1 and #3 cylinders....They can be picked up at about any parts store....

    2. Stand back and look at the tread. You are looking for abnormalities, bumps, or just something that doesn't look right. Kind of hard to explain, and sometimes you can't see anything.

    A vibration can be many different things though, so don't just limit your investigation to this area alone.

    3. I see you met a bunch of other members recently, did you guys discuss this problem? I'm sure with the talent in that group a solution could have easily been found....

    good Luck....
     
  7. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, I'll change the sender. I checked out all 4 tires and none of them have any signs of abnomalities. I really think the vibe thing comes from the engine. The braking vibes is what really concerns me though. When I brake, it starts vibrating so bad stuff bounces out of the center console trey. I'm going to take it to get the cat replaced then change the waterpump too. I flushed the radiator and block yesterday until water started coming out clear but after I refilled it again, the water was still rusty and yucky. If there a special was to pressure flush it? Thx
     
  8. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Put some Cascade in your cooling system and run it to operating temp, then completely flush it out.

    A warped front rotor is usually the culprit with vibrations upon braking. This is not usually something you can see.

    On my old '77 p/up, you could really tell when the steering stabilizer went out, as a bad vibration would make it almost undriveable....

    Just a few more thoughts....
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Before you waste money on a sender, why don't you ground the sender wire and make sure the gauge moves first?
     
  10. On the rear drum I recently had the lining seperate from the shoe and break apart causing extremely violent shakes. It made me not want to apply the brakes at all. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
    BTW: When shopping for rear shoes make sure the pad is rivited on and not glued. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     
  11. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    If the coolant looked rusty then you should replace the rad since it's probably corroded inside. As for the vibes: check the motor(and trans for that matter) mounts, they may be the originals, check the U-joints, driveshaft weights, u-bolt tightness, and the wheel bearings...
     
  12. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    I dont think its the brakes because it only does it when the engine gets hot. I also just had the brakes done about a week ago so it better not be them... I'll try the sender ground wire thing as well as running cascade through it. Right now I'm more worried about the overheating problem than the vibes (even though I think they are related). Thx
     
  13. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like a bad head gasket to me. Had the same problem on an S-10 with a 4.3. Also check your timing.

    John
     
  14. redk5

    redk5 Registered Member

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    Before you throw a bunch of parts at your truck and then later find out you didn't need to, do a few checks first,

    For the vibration, get the vehicle to vibrate, place trans in drive and give the engine some gas while holding the brake, did it get worse? if it does you have an engine miss, if this is the case start with the least exotic, keep in mind timing that is off can cause overheating, engine misses, vibration, are all the plug wires in the correct order, are all the plug wires one position off?
    another idea- if you replace the hose and water is still leaking but you don't know where it is going, and the engine turns over a bit then stops when you try to start it, it is likely a head gasket, fill your radiator again, to the top, let it sit, while it is sitting remove all your plugs, put paper towels in front of all the holes, and turn the engine over, see if any of the towels have water on them, also check your oil, is it overfilled or discolored.
    Again I stress there is no reason to just buy parts and hpe it fixes the problem, unless you really like your parts guy or the muffler shop, and you want to help them get their bonus.
    Catylitic Converter- if you have a restricted exaust it will cause overheating, but it is highly coincidental that your cat will go out the same time as the leak in the cooling system, and the same time you feel a vibration, and the same time you replace stuff, if you suspect the cat, visually inspect it first, does it have any damage on the outside, does you vehicle stink when it runs? Get a hold of a vacuum gauge, plug it in to manifold vacuum, run the engine up in rpm if the cat is bad the vacuum will fall as the rpm ges up. NOTE... do not open the throttle fully this will decrease your vacume and give incorrect results, slowly open the trottl and watch for vacuum drop, this is cheaper than buying a cat.
    It is highly unlikely that a tire sepo has occured overnight, the same night as you decided to change ign components.
    If you have any other questions email me at red77k5@hotmail.com
     
  15. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    Wish I had seen this one earlier. Its already at the mufler shop. After I replaced the hoses, the leaking stopped. My oil is fine. I will check the timing but I need to learn how first /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif. When I replaced the ign parts, I removed the old cap and and after changing the rotor, I installed the new cap then replaced the wires one at a time. I figured this was a good way to do it and I'm almost certain I didnt cross 2 wires. I will check that too though. With the cat replacement, I figured since my exhaust manifolds got red hot that I needed a new cat (I remember someone on here saying something about not legally needing a cat because the GVWR on their burb was 8600 [mine is too] but the muffler shop hadnt heard anything about that). The guy at the shop also told me I needed a new cat /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif but who knows. I guess once I get it back I'll try the other stuff. Thx
     
  16. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yep it was probably me on the 8600lb deal. In GEORGIA I don't need to smog. Sure is peppy with the cat off.
    I'm still chasing a over heat problem in mine. I have not let mine get over 225. Mine only does it with the A/C on at idle stuck in traffic. I'll be having the radiator Rodded out or get a new one and I'm also putting in a new high flow water pump.

    Your symptoms could also be EGR problems. EGR doesn't come on in open loop mode. EGR is closed at Idle or accleration. If it were on at idle or accleration it would cause a miss.
     
  17. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Well seeing as you didn't seem to have a problem before, but do now AFTER changing cap, rotor, etc. It would seem to reason that you might have bumped the distributor and affected timing. Timing that is off WILL make headers/manifolds glow cherry red (usually too retarded), plus it can make for some real weird driving. Could also be a cat too, or that the cat needed to be replaced (how many miles?). One suggestion though, if you do have the cat replaced, get a new 02 sensor as a crappy one can kill a new converter $$$$$. As for the cooling system, if the coolant was/is that color, I would replace the hoses, water pump, radiator, and thermostat AFTER a complete flush. At minimal replace the hoses and thermostat after completely flushing the system. Most auto parts places have flushing kits/additives to aid in getting rid of corrosion.
    There are two plugs on the bottom of your block for draining it. I have found taking those out during a flush works great at getting the sediment. You may even have to poke around with an al to loosen corroded deposits in order to get them to drain (once the plugs are out). I usually replace the plugs with petcocks as it makes future flushes much easier.
     

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