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Will a Second Gen Gas Tank Fit in my 72?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Batmanjr, Jun 29, 2001.

  1. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Will a Sec. Gen Gas tank fit in my 72? For that matter, Who and where are the best deals on gas tanks if one has too replace the one they have?
     
  2. ChrisM72beast

    ChrisM72beast 1/2 ton status

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  3. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    http://www.rocko.rockcrawler.com
     
  4. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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  5. JoshA

    JoshA 1/2 ton status

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    it will not fit. the frame rails on a 2nd gen are farther apart so the tank is wider as well.
     
  6. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    I hate to break it to you JoshA, but I have a 31 Gallon tank from a 73 blazer in my 72 blazer right now. It takes a little fabrication to do it but it does fit. It's a helluva lot cheaper than the NWMP or Aero replacement too. You have to relocate the rear-most frame crossmember about 30" forward and fab up some holding straps, but it does work. I didn't worry about the frame back there because my rear bumper is plenty stout enough to replace the crossmember. It's really no big deal to do it, but when I do it over again I'll shop around for a 40 Gal. tank from a suburban and snag the skidplate with it. If you have more questions, feel free to PM or e-mail me personally.

    HTH,

    Buddy


    72 K-5, 33x12.5's, 350/350/205,12-bR,d44F soon to be 39.5'x15.5s, EFI502/nv4500/doubler205, d60F, d70R. Stay tuned.
     
  7. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>Will a 87+ tank fit? I plan on converting to FI and it would be easier to get a tank with the electronic pump in it. Mine's leaking anyway.</font color=blue>
     
  8. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    Well let's see. I don't have any pics, but I can tell you that the fabrication required was VERY minimal. Really the only torch or welding work that needs to be done is to relocate the rearmost crossmember to clear the front of the "new" tank. My setup is pretty much a hack-job, but it works, and I don't have any worries about it at all. I'm pretty sure that the late model suburbans and tahoes/blazers have the same width frame in the rear, and have had for going on 40 years now. 60-87 pickups and blazers all have the same width frame and I'm pretty sure it's consistent maybe even to the 2001 year model.

    Anyways, just go to the junkyard, pick out an unmolested sub/blazer and yank the tank out from under it. Be sure to get the straps and sending unit that goes with it, (if you've converted to EFI, pick at least an 87-up for the in-tank pump).

    Drag it back to the house and drop the original.

    Once you get the tank out, grind, torch, drill, whatever, off the rivets that hold in the furthest rear crossmember and remove it.
    If you have the factory rear bumper, you'll likely need to add in another rearmost crossmember to keep the stiffness in the rear of the frame. A C-channel, or square tubing would likely work great and just bolt it in.

    Move the crossmember that you took out to just clear the front of the gas tank when you get it jacked up in between the framerails and bolt or weld it in, just be sure it's solid.

    The straps will have some kind of hook on both ends with an adjustment bolt on one end.
    Just drill a hole big enough to fit the hooks through in front and back of the tank and slip the straps through, tighten them up, and lower the jack.

    The tank flanges don't have to be tight up to the bottom of the framerails, because the straps and frame will keep it in place.
    If you'd like even more ground clearance in the rear, you can bend the flanges UP so that the tank can be raised up to even the bottom side of the bed if you want. Works great.

    My advice to all is to:

    EITHER find a gas tank that has the filler tube come out on the driver's side to match, (Again, late model subs/tahoes/blazers are your best bet, just be sure they fit, because I'm NOT POSITIVE they do),

    OR just turn the tank around so that the "slope" faces the front of the truck.

    If you go with the latter, get some extra fuel hose from NAPA to loop around to the fuel line on the framerail.

    Hook up the necessary hoses, wires and whatever and you're done. Twice as many miles between fill-ups for under 100 bucks and some time.

    My phone number is in my profile if anybody wants to call for more tips, or pointers, I'd be glad to answer your questions and just shoot the bull for a while.

    HTH,

    Buddy

    72 K-5, 33x12.5's, 350/350/205,12-bR,d44F soon to be 39.5'x15.5s, EFI502/nv4500/doubler205, d60F, d70R. Stay tuned.
     

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