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Will drop pitman arm help truck align?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90K5, May 26, 2001.

  1. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 3" lif on my truck, but no one makes a 3" steering arm, so the only steerign correction available is a drop pitman arm...probably a 2". Anyway, I've had my truck aligned a few times, but they can never get it right, always pulls the the right a little, with the steering wheel off a few degrees to the left. I've tried rotating the tires, but that didn't change anything...so will the drop pitman arm help this? I'll probably put on an ORD steering brace too sometime........

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     
  2. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Those drop pitman arms you are thinking of are really more of 1.5" drop instead of 2". Guess its easier to sell them as "2" rather than "1.5".

    There are some lift companies that sell the steering arm blocks to raise the stock steering arm. They have them in 2" and 3" block kits. The kits include the blocks, three longer studs, and nuts. Superlift is one company that sells these parts. The part numbers are: 2" - #3432 and the 3" - #3434. Superlift phone number is: 1-800-551-4955. Give them a call and get the 3" block kit. [​IMG]

    When In Doubt, Whip It Out!
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    It is important to keep the drag link horizontal to prevent excesive bump steer and reduced ability to turn. However, it will make no difference to alignment or pulling to one side.

    Check for worn components, tire pressure differences, uneven brake wear (indicating disk pads that are not fully releasing) etc.

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  4. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks - the parts are a few months old, and I'm pretty sure the pressure is the same, but I'll check it. Hopefully the ORD brace will help.
    How hard is it to do the steering block? Obviously the steering arm has to come off ,but how hard is it to replace the studs? Just hammer them out, or does the knouckle have to come out to get the old ones out?

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     
  5. surg82k5

    surg82k5 1/2 ton status

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    I jsut got done taking my steering arm off a couple of days ago, and it was no biggie at all. I soaked with some penetrant and it was off in about 10 min. i have heard that some people have lots of trouble with them but just soak it about a day before and it should come off.
     
  6. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    -K- 90

    Sounds like you have the drag link figured out. So I'll take a shot at the "slight pull to the right, Steering wheel off to the left"

    Most city streets have a "crown" in the road to help with water drainage. This "crown" will make a car or truck pull to the right, if not properly compensated for in the wheel alighnmen. So If the truck was set "straight up"- you would end up with a slight pull to the right, you (the driver) compensate for this pull, by turning the steering wheel to the left. Thus; pulls right, steering wheel off to the left. -get it?-

    Most expiriance alighnment shops should know this and perposly set the alighnment up to have a slight pull to the left, so when they are driven on "crownd" roads- they nullifi each other and the car/truck drives straight. Usuely the left tire will have a degree or two less caster. Get them to make a print up of the alignment spec and check the caster settings, the left tire should have less.

    Please take a note, This is just one of the meny reasons for a "slight pull to the right." In my opinin, it is the second most common, first would be tire condition.

    Twiztid
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I was waiting for you to ask about the studs!!! Those are going to be a little tricky to get out!!! Once you get the steering arm off, take the nuts and put them back on. Weld the nuts to the studs and use a torch to heat the knuckle areas around the base of the studs. Then use an impact to back the studs out. This can be some time consuming work, but it has been done. Use of the tools described above will make your day go easier and smoother. [​IMG]

    When In Doubt, Whip It Out!
     
  8. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I just did this on my D44... you are gonna have to get hold of a oxy/acetl setup and heat the piss outta the bolts. Otherwise you could probably take it off the truck and take it to a machine shop and have them do it. I never thought to weld the nuts on and use the impact... But I had little trouble w/ the torch and vise grips

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     

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