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Will I need a longer drive shaft?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by meatloafK5, Oct 17, 2002.

  1. meatloafK5

    meatloafK5 Registered Member

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    I am caught in a dilema at the moment between 4" and 6" lift. I first assumed that a 4" lift will be easier to install due to only needing minor mods, but I have been doing some research and found that it's not all that much different than a 6" lift. I am basically planning to get Skyjacker springs all around and get it as a comlete package so that I can install it all at once. I know that I will most likely need longer brake lines all around, drop down steering arm, lift kit of course, but can I get away with my stock driveshaft for now? Or will I need to order/find another longer one? And if so, what lenght?
    Thanks guys/gals.
    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Most likely you're going to need to lengthen the shafts with the 6", and it's highly possible that you'll need to with the 4" too. How's that for a definate answer? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif </font color>
     
  3. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    with a 6" plan for a drive shaft...you may or may not need it but...every truck is a little different...but chances are you will need to do some mods to it...posibly even a c/v if you have vibs
     
  4. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    6" lift 99% of the time means lengthen the driveshafts
     
  5. K5thatShmobs

    K5thatShmobs 1/2 ton status

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    I did a 7" all spring on my '84 K5, and my driveshafts were fine. The only thing I had to worry about was getting a CV joint on the rear and shiming the axle about 6 degrees. My situation was very borderline, but as long as all of your spline teeth arent showing on either end, youre probably ok. Once again, it changes from setup to setup--Those are my two cents.
     
  6. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I have a 6" and my rear was fine, but my front is absolutely all kinds of screwed!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  7. TIGHTWORK82 K5

    TIGHTWORK82 K5 1/2 ton status

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    look at my new engine pic catagory, there s a pic of my yoke after a six inch lift, it works fine had to drop my crossmember about 1 1/4 to get rid of vibes. but I dont like it lowered that much and want a c/v shaft now. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Your driveline requirements mostly depend on your shocks length, and if you want to make sure you don't need to change them you can always put a limiting strap in the middle so you get the flex side to side but not the full droop on the whole axle.
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  9. meatloafK5

    meatloafK5 Registered Member

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    Thanks guys. I think I'm just going to order the 6" Skyjacker kit and measure when installed and just go from there. Good idea to go with CV shafts? will that help the angle issue enough?
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  10. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Your best bet is to have new shafts made. Do you have a driveshaft shop near you ??? I just took my old shafts, and truck into the driveshaft shop and had them messure everything and make new shafts. I was able to drive on my stock rear shaft, but it was bearly in. I was mega worried about it coming apart on ever bump. Needless to say, I drove it strait to the driveshaft shop as soon as the lift was in.
     
  11. Gary 86 K5

    Gary 86 K5 1/2 ton status

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    how much did it cost to have your stock ds lengthened? what did you do about the front ds??
     
  12. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    The DS shop I went too made me new shafts with ALL NEW PARTS for $200.00 per shaft. Not a bad deal consittering everything is new and ballanced.
     
  13. rogerwilco71

    rogerwilco71 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 6" on my 87, and I still had enough drive shaft, but I'm lengthening for wheeling. The other problem I ran into with lifting my 87 was the front drive shaft severly settling on the cross-tube for the single exhaust. If you don't have headers and dual ex, I'd first go to a muffler shop and have that tube lower 2-4 or look into dual exhaust. I had a shop do mine for $28.
    I had my drivelines done on my '77 for 140 each, but I wouldn't shop around for price...shop for reputation.
     
  14. rogerwilco71

    rogerwilco71 1/2 ton status

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    Oh, one more thing, you're okay without doing but if you off-road at ALL(even a flower bed), on the cv on the front shaft you'll definetely need to grind the 2 tabs (about 1.5" across and .5" in height) where the joint of the drive-shaft and the cv meet. You don't want that binding up.
    2nd more thing(not totally necesary), I'd spend a little extra for a 2" steering block($45-50) to add with the 4" steering arm. That stock steering arm can be a hag to remove, and all the trucks I've lifted, their wasn't any pretty way of going about it aside from a ton of lubricant, brushing, and a good sledge-hammer to gently pop it loose (or atleast a heavy 10-20lb mallot). Tap all the angles, especially up and it'll come loose. Every-time I came across these (mind you, I didn't do it for a living, just friends) frozen arms I thought of that line from "Smokey and the Bandit" Bufurd-T-Justice: "son...when we get home, remind me to slap yo mama"
    I think I'll use that for my new signature! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  15. meatloafK5

    meatloafK5 Registered Member

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    Thanks again, these are the things that I was asking about. I am planning on offroading when the Blazer gets finished, so I am looking for the most durable/reliable setup.

    Also, the Y pipe I had fabricated for my new exhaust does have a removable cross-over section. I had him put that in so that I can get into tranny work when needed. I might as well stay with the 4" suspension idea because it still seems much simpler than a 6".
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