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Will Zero Rates work for me?

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by divorced, Oct 5, 2004.

  1. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    Ok, here's what I've got - On the rear of my K20 I have 5.5" lift springs. I think that they may be SkyJacker's. The overload leaf is curved also. I also use a 2" lift block. I want to get rid of the 2" block and use a zero rate. The reasons are because I need something not tapered to tilt my pinion down and to move the axle back an inch because my rear shaft is too long and bottoms out. If you look at the picture below you can see that the curved overload only touches about half of the block, the section in the center. It does not touch for about 1 1/2" on the ends of the block. Will moving the axle back with a zero rate compound this problem because the spring is arched even more as it goes farther back? Also something else I thought about doing is to use a flat overload from a stock spring pack and cut it so it is only as long as the zero rate and bolt it in between the zero rate and spring pack to keep me closer to the 2" I lost from the block. Will it work?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    You can do this with the zero rates, no problem. If you need more than the 1" though, you should check into getting a 2" block with no taper to it.
    How tight are your ubolts? It looks like they could be torqued a bit more to get the pack clamped together better. I think this would solve your spring seat problem or help a lot.
     
  3. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    1" is plenty, it sits high in the rear anyway. The u-bolts are torqued to 130 Ft lbs. Thanks for the reply.
     
  4. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Maybe a photo illusion of a gap on those?
     
  5. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    I took the springs apart and cleaned the rust off of them, they fit much nicer now.
     

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