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Winch Bumper... can anyone answer!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TC4x4, Dec 18, 2006.

  1. TC4x4

    TC4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Can anyone show me how the blazen offroad winch bumper connects to the frame becasue it looks like the leverage of the winch i way to hing and i was wondering how the brackets setup it where the bumper connects to the frame. Is it strong enough to pull my truck that is totally stuck in this deep Michigan mud??? thnaks guys
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2006
  2. TC4x4

    TC4x4 1/2 ton status

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    a picture from under neith would be nice thanks
     
  3. TC4x4

    TC4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Any Answers?
     
  4. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    Have you e-mailed Jesse? He builds them....
     
  5. TC4x4

    TC4x4 1/2 ton status

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    already did? But i waas jsu wondering if anyone knew on here.
     
  6. otisringle

    otisringle 1/2 ton status

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    I have one of the first ones jesse made. Not sure if all of his bumpers are made the same way still, but the one I have slips over the two front frame rails and is secured with 2 bolts on each side. Bolts right up to the existing holes in the frame rails. I didnt think this was a very secure way of bolting it up, but I called him a while ago and he said it should be just fine. I cant think of anyother way to explain how it bolts up right.
     
  7. 81jimmyslt

    81jimmyslt 1/2 ton status

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    One plate on each side of the frame horns, two bolt holes each, 9/16 grade eight bolts. The stock holes are 1/2" so you have to drill them one size larger. If more strength is a concern there is plenty of room for more holes on your frame have at it. We know many of our customers like out of the box fit.

    FYI our next plate style front bumpers will have a hidden winch design which will bring it down farther thsn the current design.

    I'll send some close ups to your email!

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Jesse
     
  8. Metrodps

    Metrodps Strange but nice guy Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well to help figure out what it will take to recover a vehicle this might help!

    First you need to be absolutely sure that EVERY single piece of equipment used in the task is strong enough and will not fail and thereby endanger life and limb. Hooks should be pointing up that way if they come off they go down. Realize, that for reasons of practicality and economics, your 4x4 recovery equipment is almost certainly undersized.....you can still do the job, using the correct techniques, but you will be much SAFER if you keep this in mind.


    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]1) Most people are terrible at actually estimating the gross weight of their rig as it sits on the trail, full of gas, tools, equipment, food, camping gear, people, the dog...everything. Heck, in some cases the real figure can actually exceed the GVWR of the vehicle. Simple advice here - either err WAY on the heavy side, or get your rig weighed in trail trim.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
    [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
    [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
    [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]

    [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
    2) More importantly, the "effective weight" of a "stuck" 4x4 is very often FAR more than 1.5 times the GVW. The following data on how to more accurately estimate the "effective weight", is taken from the world of professional heavy recovery - the guys that recover Tractor-trailers that have flipped on their side for instance, as well as U.S., Canadian, and UK Military recovery manuals.
    [/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]


    Once you have accurately estimated or measured the trucks loaded weight (LW) you can calculate the resistance to be overcome in any recovery situation (this is commonly known as the ROLLING resistance). There are 4 types of resistance that must be accounted for to accurately assess the resistance that must be overcome. These are surface resistance, damage resistance, mire (stuck) resistance and grade (slope) resistance. Calculate them all as follows:



    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Surface resistance

    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 1/10 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a hard, level surface.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
    A pull of 1/3 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a softer surface, such as grass or gravel,
    [/FONT]

    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Damage resistance:[/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 2/3 LW will be required to move if the wheels cannot rotate (as if the brakes were fully applied), the pull required to overcome the resistance (drag) the truck id 2/3 or 67% of the LW. Damage resistance includes surface resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]

    [/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Stuck (mire) resistance:[/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 100% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to a depth of the sidewall on the tires.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
    A pull of 200% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the hubs.
    A pull of 300% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the frame..


    Mire resistance includes damage resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)
    [/FONT]

    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Grade (slope) resistance:[/FONT]

    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Upgrade (vehicle has to be recovered up a slope or grade)[/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
    15 degrees - add 25% of LW
    30 degrees - add 50% of LW

    45 degrees - add 75% of LW

    Vehicle recovery on level ground - no correction

    Downgrade (vehicle has to be recovered down a slope or grade)

    15 degrees - subtract 25% of LW
    30 degrees - subtract 50% of LW
    45 degrees - subtract 75% of LW

    [/FONT]

    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Final figure:[/FONT]

    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Add surface or damage or mire resistance and grade resistance, and this is your final figure or rolling resistance. This is the amount of pull the winch must apply in order to recover the stuck vehicle.[/FONT]

    [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]

    Here is the military approach.​


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The way to attack the situation. Using this method you can free a Hummer buried up to its axles Thanks to Mike Rowe and Dirty jobs.
    [​IMG]

    If you want to read on recovery operations go here
    http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid =1&fid=file&pid=11
    FM 9-43-2, Recovery and Battlefield Damage Assessment and Repair.

    [/FONT]
    [/FONT][/FONT]
     
  9. Slapperbar

    Slapperbar Retired Navy NDT Examiner Premium Member

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    Somebody's been to steel soldiers...
     
  10. BulldogK5

    BulldogK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    The red one is mine. I can say that I have not had any problems removing a vehicle high centered on a stump, myself from a mild stuck and a loaded F-250 that one of my guys got stuck. The f250 was a crew cab 2wd mired in pretty deep in some owlshat type mud (ie. slick as) and he was downhill from me. I had no problems at all. As Jesse said, feel free to drill some more holes.:D
     
  11. 81jimmyslt

    81jimmyslt 1/2 ton status

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    Also the measly four bolts that hold your winch down should be of more concern, make sure it is mounted solid with no slop.
     

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