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Window Motor Removal

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 89Blazer4wd, Apr 20, 2006.

  1. 89Blazer4wd

    89Blazer4wd Registered Member

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    I just finished searching the forums for info on window motors. I have found quite a bit on where i can purchase them along with the switches. But my question has to do with the actual removal of the motor from the door. My passenger window no longer goes down. It is in the full closed position now. I've taken the panel off and tested the wires/switches and i am getting to the connector that goes into the window motor. In fact i can hear a slight click at the motor when i push the switch, but for some reason its froze in the closed position. Now is there a site or someone that has decent directions on how to remove the motor for replacement?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you,
    Patrick
    1989 K5 Blazer
     
  2. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    I'll look in the factory manual, but I seem to remember it wasn't real helpful.
     
  3. theperfectgarage

    theperfectgarage 1/2 ton status

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    Dont know if it's the " best " way but I take out the entire regulator. Duct tape the glass to the frame so it wont fall down and you wont need a helper.
    On my 89 theres a little brace you have to remove so you can slide the regulator out of the door. It's not hard and it's not fun and you can prob. do the second one in half the time
     
  4. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    perfect has it right. On mine I had to replace a pivot pin on the linkage. Once you have the regulator assy out of the door;
    "Caution: Must be performed when regulator is removed from door. The regulator lift arms are under tension from the counterbalance spring and can cause serious injury if the motor is removed without locking the sector gear in position.
    Drill a hole through the regulator sector gear and back plate. DO NOT drill closer than 1/2" to edge of sector gear or back plate. Install a pan head sheet metal tapping screw (No. 10-12 x 3/4) in drilled hole to lock sector gear in position."
    Works for me.:D
     
  5. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    yeah,be careful!..

    I still have wounds on my fingers and hands from pulling power window motors at the junkyard when I worked there! .....be very careful!!-- I feel its worth the time to drill and lock the window regulator as suggested in the previous post!..we used vise grips,because we were in a hurry..but they didn't always hold,and if they slip,that regulator quickly becomes a guilliotine!..and it'll snip off fingers and thumbs with NO trouble,if your slow about pulling them out of the way!...:eek1:
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Does anyone have a picture of the spring or the assembly? I'm assuming this is power windows only, and not the K5 rear window, or manual side windows?

    Just curious, I've never seen these springs that can apparently take your fingers off, but I'd like to.

    The only spring I've seen in the tailgate is weak and not tied into the lift arms, but I haven't had that completely disassembled either...unbolted, but not out completely.
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    not all have them..

    I think most GM trucks dont use the spring loaded "gulliotine" regulators,but I'm not sure...we usually sold the entire door,rather than "gut" it..most customers just put the whole door on instead of replacing parts inside,since most of them had no clue how to go about it..so I didn't take many doors apart or remove windows too often..never had to mess with a K5 tailgate innards,or a Suburban..lucky I guess?..

    Many of the GM truck doors had the "guts" already hanging out the bottom,rusted right off the door!..its rare to find "good" doors here,but most of the ones being replaced were trashed too,and people just wanted one that had a working window in it..

    The vehicles I took most of the power window motors out of were mostly full sized Caddy's and Lincolns from the 60's and 70's,and some 80's..Buicks and Oldsmobiles also had the "killer" window regulators with springs that were really strong,and could chop up your hands pretty easy..

    At any rate,even with manual crank up windows,its easy to slice up your fingers and hands working inside the door's shhet metal framework..they make nice razor blades if your skin touches them in the right spot!..:yikes:
     
  8. 89Blazer4wd

    89Blazer4wd Registered Member

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    Its funny, i just finished reading this same piece right out of the service manual. I was wondering though, do you drill this whole to lock the sector gear to the back plate after you've gotten the whole assembly out of the door? or are you somehow supposed to do this while its still in there and then unbolt everything and take it out? I was looking at this crap yesterday and there really isn't much of an area to work with through the door panel. But i figure i'll give it a try myself and see how it goes.
     
  9. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    Once you start the work, you'll see what they are talkin about, but yeah, the drill and lock ordeal is after its out of the door.
     
  10. fireplug

    fireplug 1/2 ton status

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    :confused: I am confused. I just unbolted and replaced it. I've done it too many times. Three bolts if I remember correctly. I'll be at the shop in a couple of hours and I'll take a look and remind myself. I'll take some pics too, and post later tonight.
     
  11. 89Blazer4wd

    89Blazer4wd Registered Member

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    Hey man that would really be great if you could take some pictures. The service manual doesn't give even one picture for the removal of the power window assembly. I'll check back for this post later tonight for your pictures.

    Thank again,
    Patrick
     
  12. fireplug

    fireplug 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry, I got there late today and didn't get any pics before dark. I took a couple but they're not worth posting, I'll get some before the end of the weekend.

    I did get a bit of a reminder when taking the pics though. If I'm not mistaken I removed the regulator and motor together. In my case ('89 Sub) the regulator wasn't a death trap. The most difficult part of the replacement was getting the regulator through the opening in the door, and when replacing them, getting the teeth meshed up at the right spot to allow full opening and closing was a bit of a pain.

    Another thing to consider, I thought I had blown a couple of motors and went to a lot of trouble for nothing. The motors have a safe guard of their own and are pretty resilient, my problem was nothing more than a loose connection.

    Sorry I couldn't get the pics.
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Not sure if this will help but I was just browsing through the LMC catalog online, and see that they have an exploded diagram of the doors.

    There's no spring in there to guillotine your hands that I saw when I glanced at the photo.
     
  14. ucnu112

    ucnu112 Registered Member

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    I've got the 3 bolts out, but there seems to be a center fastener holding it together still. I cheated though, and cut out a big square in the door sheet metal so I could see what I was doing. It'll be covered by the lower panel anyway. :D
     
  15. fireplug

    fireplug 1/2 ton status

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    Disclaimer, this is a very half asst attempt to help! is the only pic I have, it's a rear passenger door from an 89 Burb.

    I believe the I pulled the three bolts circled. The one on the far right is only a guess. I'm pretty sure there was one I'm just not certain it's the one I circled.

    If you haven't figured it out, the top arms of the regulator scissor open/closed and the guide attached to the glass (where the long red line is) has two semi circular cut outs where the rollers can be removed.

    My memory fails me whether the motor itself is bolted to the door. I think it might be and if so those are the two bolts on the lower left.

    Again please refer to the opening statement. :D

    i.JPG
     

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