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Wiring Roof Lights

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by prossett, Mar 22, 2006.

  1. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't the faintest clue about wiring - but here's what I was thinking to run lights from the roof:

    There's a stock wire coming out to the driver's side bed rail, which used to connect to the bed roof, I suppose to power the tailgate window. There's a connector on the end of it and there's actually two wires inside.

    One of these is live and I found I can plug a light wire straight into it and the light works. The other when grounded turns on the cab light.

    OK, here's the thought. Can I just use this live wire to power my roof lights? Basically, I'll just connect a new wire to the stock one, run it through a switch and then up to the lights.

    I need simple on-off for all four roof lights, no need to run them independently or in pairs or anything.

    I believe the stock wire should already be fused.

    Would this simple set-up work?
     
  2. lrazer

    lrazer 1/2 ton status

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    i beleive the wire you are talking about is for the interior light in the cap that may not be sufficient to power multiple higher wattage lights
     
  3. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to wire my 4 kc's up in a few days. I will probably use 12 guage wire, two 40 amp relays, and a switch. I can take pics when I do it, and draw you a diagram if you like. I am also going to run a 30 amp inline fuse.
    thanks,
    James
     
  4. steve_kibbe

    steve_kibbe 1/2 ton status

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    What kind of "roof lights" are you wanting to use?
     
  5. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys - I'd appreciate the help, 78Suburban!

    Let's do this properly, while I'm at it.

    The roof lights are two PIAA driving lights, halogen, I'd guess 55W, and 8" in diameter. They will go in the middle.

    Then I want two wide-angle flood lights to go on the outsides, so I can point them to cover 9-11 o'clock on the driver's and 1-3 o'clock on the passenger's. Also 55W and they would be on the same circuit as the other two.

    In the very center I'd put a work light pointing towards the bed.

    Plus, since reversing out of difficult situations is prolly the most common cause of a bad stuck, I'd add two reverse lights.. :lol:

    So, now I've gone from one on-off for everything to 3 different wiring circuits with their own switches!!!!

    I dunno, guys, the more I think about it, the more complex I make it!!!

    OK, let's assume I do this properly: I understand the 10-12ga wire straight from the battery to carry enough power, I suppose I'd put in an inline 30amp fuse as close to the battery as possible, right?

    Then I run the hot wire into the cab (where?) down along the door and up to the bed.

    I'm not clear on relays and switches...
     
  6. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    You don't need to use a relay if you run seperate wires and switches.
    The choice is yours but I kinda like the individual swictes myself.
    There is some pictures of my set-up in my Webshots album here
    http://community.webshots.com/album/23360755rWHWgyiFRM
    .
    Relays can be a good thing if you just want all on at once though.
     
  7. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    I'd rather run only one big butch wire from the battery, if possible.

    The way I've used relays before was on my old YJ, and that was to tap into the stock headlight wire and use the stock switch. Basically it was an upgrade to the lights wire, and I didn't want to route the new 12ga wire right into the cab so I hooked up a relay.

    As for what runs at the same time, the 4 roof lights would go on together, the reverse would be separate, and the work light also separate.

    Awesome work with the switches, man! but I don't see the lights.
     
  8. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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  9. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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  10. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    so what all did you end up using to wire them up with? I still gotta wire my 4 lights up soon :wink1:
     
  11. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

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    I would run at least an 8 ga wire from the battery. Put it into a fused distribution block and go from there.
     
  12. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    I used the thickest, nastiest wire I could find - it's actually not that big, maybe 10-12ga. They call it a "35" size here. Much thicker than usual auto wire, though.

    From the battery to a 30Amps fuse, snaked through the firewall, along the door step and up to the driver's side B-pillar.

    I used a 3-way switch and from that wired the 3 front-facing PIAA lights, and the 2 reverse floods.

    No relays since I placed the switch up high on the roof.

    Used connectors and sodlered them to make double-sure. Wrapped with shrink tubing 'till I ran out, and then just wrapped with insulating tape.

    [​IMG]
     

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