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wobbling damper?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jjlaughner, Mar 22, 2004.

  1. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    I noticed the damper on my 350 was wobbling a little when I was checking my heater hoses and water pump for leaks. Is this gonna cause a problem? I had it off about 1000 miles ago to change the timing chain. I had a hard time getting the damper on and off. it's not leaking oil, should I try to straighten it when/if I replace the radiator /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    2.12mb quicktime video, right click save target as.........
     
  2. jakeslim

    jakeslim 1/2 ton status

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    funny you should post this, i noticed the same on my engine also last week while changing a belt. I dismissed it as ok /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif. I wasn't sure so i looked the other way /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Make sure the bolt in the center is tight.
     
  4. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    I believe dampers have a little rubber gromet between the shaft and the actual metal part so they can flex slightly and dampen vibration better. If your damper is old, the rubber may be deteriorating and not holding like it should anymore.
     
  5. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    dampers are there for a good reson and if they wobble they are not doing their job and will cause premature engine failure.

    or it could do what mine did. my dampner came loose and distroyed the end of the crank shaft where it connects. i had to pull the motor and replace the crank shaft /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  6. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Make sure the bolt in the center is tight.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    putting it on I started to strip the threads so I used *gulp* a rubber mallet to help it down enough for the bolt to get a good hold, I tightenedd it down pretty good, I'll double check it though /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  7. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I believe dampers have a little rubber gromet between the shaft and the actual metal part so they can flex slightly and dampen vibration better. If your damper is old, the rubber may be deteriorating and not holding like it should anymore.

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Thats what I was thinking but I /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  8. jakeslim

    jakeslim 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif never ends....
     
  9. 88subgeorge

    88subgeorge Registered Member

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    Time to replace the damper before it takes the crank and/or radiator.
    Remove the bolt, use a thread restorer [gentler] tap to clean up the threads, remove & destroy the damper.
    Get a threaded damper installer, remove any burrs on the crank & damper, oil it & crank it down.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Don't have quicktime here, so I can't watch it, but just a few things from my own experience.

    If you are watching a rotating part, and think it is wobbling, remember that any abnormality in color or shape will give it the appearance of a wobble. The front face may not be perfectly flat, or it could be discolored enough to trick your eye.

    You aren't watching the pulley are you? The pulley can be loose, also appearing as a wobble.

    Other than that, if it's loose to the touch, you need to fix it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  11. jakeslim

    jakeslim 1/2 ton status

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    well i had dismissed my wobble as the engine rumbling a bit at idle, thereby giving the effect of it wobbling. I will have to check the bolts, but if it is not loose, is there a way to confirm that its warped or something?
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Could probably hook up an indicator (like you'd check a rotor, can't remember the stupid tools name, even though I used it on my motor) but with the rubber ring, you'd need to check both the inner and outer to make sure they were both turning "true". Probably some inherent runout, but not much I'd say.
     
  13. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    There are a couple of things that need to be clarified after reading these posts.

    1. You should NEVER pound the dampner onto the crank. You WILL damage the thrust bearing. Use the proper tool. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif Put the hammer away! /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif I tried to use the bolt to install it once, when I was building my first engine at 16....learned the hard way. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

    2. The dampner is press fit onto the end of the crank. There should not me any wobbling or movement once installed. The dampner should seat all the way against the timing gear/sprocket behind the timing cover. The bolt is then torqued to proper spec. If the dampner is wobbling, it is not doing it job to cancel out the torsional vibration the crank sees during operation.

    I have seen a few dampners get fubared and break the end of the crank off....not a pretty sight. Do everything you can to check for a wobble and correct it, your crank depends on it. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  14. justhorsinaround

    justhorsinaround 3/4 ton status

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    What the heck is the proper tool?? I've put many harmonic balancers on motors (I'm assuming we're talkin about the same part?) and everyone I've put on I start with a rubber mallet to get it started made sure everything was square with the world and then finished the job with the bolt. The key I guess is to make sure it doesn't bind on the way in and torque to specs. I agree with others though if the balancer is wobblin physically not just optically (you can use a screwdriver held really close to the pully while runnin, you get the idea) it does need to be replaced before the vulcanized rubber lets go and takes out all kinds of stuff in the front of the motor. Good luck to ya in the future.

    Allan
     
  15. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    Beast is 100% right, NEVER use a hammer, it WILL damage the thrust bearing!!
    Snap On makes them, Tavia tools, O.T.C. has them. I have a Snap On tool. It included all the metric adapters as i was rebuiling all make engines.
    Snap on catalog page You can get them from jegs jegs catalog page

    but it is a press fit, And if it does wobble, i'de replace it.
     
  16. K5er4Life

    K5er4Life 1/2 ton status

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    Autozone has a free rental tool service, I rented the damper installer tool for like 6 dollars and a small deposit /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif which was returned after I brought the tool back. It worked great, it made the damper go on very easy. Just make sure you lube up the threads of the installer with some oil to make it go on easier. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif But as mentioned, the quickest way to ruin the threads on your crank is install the damper with a bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
     

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