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Wood Flooring question

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by newyorkin, May 18, 2003.

  1. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    Location:
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    Hey y'all, I need some advice on my wood flooring, and I'm too lazy to dig through hours of internet research...

    Any of you guys ever refinish a 1920's wood floor? My house has all wood floors throughout (except the kitchens and baths), and it looks like only 1 has ever been refinished. I want to professionally refinish them all before moving in, but there's no way I can, just not possible. So... I'm thinking I'm going to do it myself.

    These are shots of the living room, the most important one:
    Floor 1
    Floor 2
    Floor 3
    Floor 4

    I can get a floor sander and a buffer pretty easily, but I don't know the technique, and how to tell when I've sanded enough. The main floor, the one that will make the room if it's exposed, is pretty worn out by the door and a little deformed in some corners.


    For the final finish, what do y'all recommend?

    Shellac - Natural, long lasting, good for keeping an "original" look
    urethane - protective, long lasting, but looks terrible when it finally wears
    wax - needs to be re-waxed every year or two

    Any others you guys might know I should consider?
     
  2. chevblazk5

    chevblazk5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Location:
    Sayreville, NJ
    [ QUOTE ]
    I can get a floor sander and a buffer pretty easily, but I don't know the technique, and how to tell when I've sanded enough. The main floor, the one that will make the room if it's exposed, is pretty worn out by the door and a little deformed in some corners.


    For the final finish, what do y'all recommend?

    Shellac - Natural, long lasting, good for keeping an "original" look
    urethane - protective, long lasting, but looks terrible when it finally wears
    wax - needs to be re-waxed every year or two

    Any others you guys might know I should consider?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    If you can get yourself a Floor Disc Sander. It's easier and safer to use then the drum/belt sander. I rented mine from a local shop for $70 a day. Disc sander dosen't take off as much material as drum sander and that's why I find it easier to work with. There is less chance of damaging the wood. Don't rush and only sand to remove old finish. After sanding I vacuumed the room thoroughly, including the walls and ceiling. Then I buffed the floor (going with the grain) using a fine sand paper (120-180 grit) to help tighten the wood grain before applyed final finish. I used shelac and it came out good. When applying shellac do it in thin coats. I did three coats and I am happy with it.
     
  3. landsmasher

    landsmasher 1/2 ton status

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    I did some floor refinishing in my younger days. Use what is called a Hummel Floor Sander for the main body and an Edger for the outside edges and around the doors.

    With the hummel you set the depth by testing it. Set it at 1/16th inch first and make a test pass. If it gives you clean wood all the way across the floor in one pass it's good to go. Go with the grain and take down the floor with an 80 grit belt. Then change the belt to about 110 grit and make another finish pass as thin as you can and still get a complete pass without missing any areas.

    Then you take the edger and use two different gritss of sand paper for the same thing around the edges.

    Now before you seal the floor you need to clean up the saw dust really good. Then use tack cloth to pick up all the fine dust. (sticky gozz like stuff available where you rent the sanders) I would use Verithane for a good finish that lasts... Let it dry, use the tack cloth again and then apply a second coat.

    You can also pick up a book at the Home Depot that will get more into detail...

    Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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