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Working on square Driveshafts..... Have questions.....

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Batmanjr, Aug 21, 2003.

  1. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Alright, I ordered my yokes from Jesse and they're here, I just got back from vacation and they were waiting on me! Thanks Jess! I stopped in Waco on the way home and picked up the tubing... 6ft of 2.5", and 6ft of 2", all .25 wall and only cost me $32! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif 1st question: When I went to slide the 2" in the 2.5", the weld on the inside of the 2.5" kept the 2" from sliding in.... How do I fix this? Do I grind off the first 1" and then ram the rest through? What do you think?! 2nd question: Would you guys weld the 2" tube to the front yoke, or the 2.5" tube to the front yoke? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Thanks in advance! /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    You should have gotten 2.5" receiver tube or DOM square. It won't have a seam. You can cut it out, or grind a groove into the 2" piece. There is a recent thread on PBB where a guy talks about this. I got 2.5" DOM for mine.

    Put the big side on top, otherwise it will hold water.
     
  3. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    What are the technical differences in the DOM tubing rather than what I have... This is the only stuff I could find anywhere locally.... I tried 3 metal shops before I went to a metal supply house in Waco.... Should I call and see if they have DOM and take this back? THanks! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing i believe is not seam welded like what you have..i might be wrong...
     
  5. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    What are the technical differences in the DOM tubing rather than what I have...

    [/ QUOTE ]
    You most likely picked up ASTM A 500 Grade B Tubing. Tensile strength 58,000 min, Yield Strength 46,000 min. It is welded together with the weld seam on the inside of the tube making it more difficult to use as the outer slip tube.

    DOM is Drawn Over Mandrel [ QUOTE ]
    An Electric Welded Tube with all weld flash removed. Tested for weld soundness, drawn over a mandrel and retested. This product is superior in finish and wall uniformity to seamless tubing.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    However I have never heard of DOM square tube and can't find it in any of my catalogs. The last fab shop I worked for could get a 2.53" x 1/4" wall tube in the ASTM A 500 Grade B. It works great for slip tube /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [ QUOTE ]
    Should I call and see if they have DOM and take this back?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Yes /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. Catwoman

    Catwoman Newbie

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    if i picked up ASTM A 500 GRADE B tubing and that's all you found in your catalogs, is there a such thing as dome square tubing? where do y'all suggest i get it if i can't find it locally? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  7. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    By the way, that's my wife responding for me! THanks Guys! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    DOM is what they called it at the local yard. Much like round DOM, it has tighter internal tollerances according to their spec sheet. However, unlike round DOM, it has a hint of a ridge inside, though you can see where the inner weld ridge was sheared/flattened along the entire 20' length. This is not just cut out on the end like a piece of "receiver tube" I bought from Q-S (local hith manufacturer) to do my floor mount bender/anvil/table/vise/whatever mount.

    There is very little slop in my shaft and the inner weld has just enough bite to hang a finger nail on if you try. There is only one shop in Phoenix (to my knowledge) that sells this stuff. A guy on PBB told me about them. Whatever it is, it makes nice square shafts.
     
  9. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    I read about that stuff, it's not technically DOM, but as close as you can get to it! Basically they take what I have and drag it over a mandrel and heat it up to knock the weld off the inside... This does two things, one cleans the inside and two hardens the material to make it stronger... This is what I read... I just can't find it locally! I have a lead down in Austin and em going down tomorrow... Hopefully I will find something there! Thanks guys, I've decided to keep both tubings, never hurts to have extra metal laying around, and get some reciever hitch tubing to use with the 2" stuff... Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. BILLY RAY

    BILLY RAY 1/2 ton status

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    let me know where you get it. I will be making some spare shafts out of the same stuff.
     
  11. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    So far I found this place, but kind of pricey!
    trail hitch square stock

    Other than that, Charles and I are going to swing into JK Customs in Hutto tomorrow and see what we find... I'm also coming down with a armament of steel supply shops in and around Austin and some trailer places! THat's the goal! If it falls through by noon, I plane on just biting the bullet and buying it over the net so I can have these done by next weekend! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I just made another shaft and took some pics since you guys are planning to make one. Take it for what it's worth (not much).

    Blurry, but you can see the yoke where I notched it for the 2" tube to fit inside. I fit the tube in, square the tube to the table, use a depth gauge to make sure the tube is in the center of the yoke checking all 4 sides. And measure from the table up to the turned ridge on all sides. I keep grinding and fitting till it is as close as humanly possible with my primitive tools. Once square, I tack 2 opposite corners and recheck. Then I make the first pass welding *inside* the yoke bridging to the 2" tube. Then I slide a 1" collar of 2.5" over the small tube and weld it in just over flush. After cooling, I grind it smooth in hopes of keeping the balance somewhere close. Big side is much the same, except I make a 2" x 1" insert piece to fit in the 2.5" and the yoke cup.
    [​IMG]

    Here are some pics of the completed shaft with the unmolested yokes for comparison
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    when I called I asked for tubing for a hitch and he said 2" and 2.5" (reciever) tube cause there is no seam so it slides together. It was way cheap too. both are .250" wall.

    I'm thinking of doing a rear one too.

    -Jeremy
     
  14. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Very nice work Russ. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    What size and wall thickness conventional round tube are those yokes for?
     
  15. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    You can take your 2.5" tube to a machine shop and have the seam swedged (sp) out. Basically they shove a ram through the tube and it removes the flash. I don't know what this costs but it might be worth looking into since you already have the tubing.
     
  16. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Thanks. Those are for 3" tube.
     
  17. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the pics Baddog! Looks sweet! Never thought about using 2" of 2.5 on the bottom to help weld in the 2"! That's a great idea! I've done some research.... This is what I found out.... I bout two combo bars from a hitch place in Austin this weekend and thought I was set... I went to slide the 2" inside and it felt like throwing a hotdog down a hallway!!!!!! It was looser that crap! So I started looking at the combo bars and they were only 3/16th wall and cost me $90 for the two of them! So I returned it and went and bout a $5 bastard file at Lowe's! I ground down the seam on the inside of my 2.5" pipe for about 2-3" and slide the 2" inside! Can you say NICE! It was tight, but not binding.... Went in and out like butter but I had NO slop! So I've decided to use what I have, don't know about the ram cutting the seam out, but a 32" piece of tubing is only 16" from end to center, so I'm going to go get to work on grinding this tubing out and using what I've got! I would rather put a little more work in it and have quiet shafts than the slop those reciever bars were going to give me! Might change my mind after 3 hours of gringing, but hey, it's worth a shot! Thanks for all the heads up guys! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  18. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Looks like my description of my joints was not so easy to understand. So here is another attempt. I'm not saying this is the only way, or even the best way, it's just how I did mine. Anyone with suggestions would be much appreciated...

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Looks great to me! I understood it the first time, Great detailed layout this time! Only thing is I have 2.5" yokes instead of 3", but I'll get them to work! I just notch the opposite of you OR just notch more! I've heard of people cutting the whole thing off and welding to it flat, but I hate that idea! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  20. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    OK, dumb question time...


    Why square driveshafts?
     

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