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Would this be a good way for me to mount a second alternator?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by PetaKane, Nov 11, 2002.

  1. PetaKane

    PetaKane 1/2 ton status

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    My buddy gave me the serpentine setup from his 97 350. The alt mounts on the drivers side and ps/ac mounts on drivers side. I found a bracket at Pace Performances website, where the alternator and ps pump mount on the drivers side. So if I ordered that, I could put my ps pump on that bracket, and then go buy an alternator for the new bracket as well..does this sound like a good way to go? Thanks
     
  2. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Using F350 parts? EEEEEEk /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
    J/K
    Well it sounds like a good setup.
    Now the only issue is, and that is something I am in the process of studying now, that if they are both internally regulated, I am told that the regulators will be fighting each other.
    If you have externally regulated alternators, you should be fine, just make sure you have a big hi amp regulator.
    I will keep everyone posted on the progress of my investigation, I know a lot of people are interested in a cheap way of putting higher amps charging.
    I am working on both isolated and non isolated alternators.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I am running two alternators right now. They are not isolated and they are both internally regulated. No, the regulators will never agree on exactly the same voltage, but this will not cause a big problem. It's not as though an alternator can absorb current in an attempt to decrease the voltage. If it is rated at 60A, then it can supply 0 to 60A, not -60 to +60A. If it sees the voltage as too high, it just stops supplying current. This just means that whichever alternator regulates to a lower voltage will do the majority of the work and the other one will really only kick in when the load gets high, which again is not that big of a problem. One will likely just have a shorter life than the other, but it will still be a longer life than it would have had running alone.

    An alternator can not absorb current until the voltage at it's output terminal get close to +40V. This causes the internal zener diodes to operate in their reverse breakdown region. This is an intentional part of the design to absorb "load dump". Load dump occurs when there is an intermittent connection to the battery while it is charging. The inductance of the alternator windings does not allow it's output current to change instantaneously, so when the resistance of the path goes up, the windings give inductive "kick"; a spike in the voltage. This spike could take out all of your electronics, so the alternator is set up to suppress it.
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I thought it would be something like that, and I don't care if one works more than the other, as long as the other one kicks in when needed, that is exactly what we need.
    As for wear, I don't think it's will be much difference, since they are both turning all the time and the winding which is the part that will be either under load or not, is the part that usually lasts the longest.
    The brushes and the bearings are the consumables and I believe they should wear the same?
     
  5. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    The brushes will wear faster if they have more current through them. Heat shortens the life of everything and all else being equal, more current = more heat.
     
  6. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    forgot about that OOOOPs /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  7. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    But on another note here, if you have one that is wearing off faster, and it fails you still have back up, another one ready and running, so I like it better than a high amp single alternator. and much cheaper. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. PetaKane

    PetaKane 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif It's not from a ford 350, lol I meant from his 350 Chevy motor. It's an awesome setup. I hear alot of bad things about the serpentine setups but I was fed up with my V-belts. I think I am gonna go ahead and order the bracket from Pace, it's worth shot. How do I go about hooking up the second alt? Can I just splice into the wires from the other alternator?
     
  9. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Yes just splice into the old harness.
    As for serpentine versus V belt, I prefer the latter, because if one belt fails you can still drive it.
    I am even putting my other alternator instead of the AIR pump so it has it's own belt.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Word of warning about putting the 2nd alternator on the old AIR pump belt. The pulley on the water pump is smaller for the AIR pump than for the alternator, so the second alternator will spin slower. This makes it less useful at idle speeds, which is where you need it the most.

    And yes, that is why I went this way. Either alternator is replaceable anywhere and a failure doesn't leave you stranded. Plus, two of these is cheaper than 1 high output unit and the combined total should give more current at idle than most single high-amp units.
     
  11. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Why do you want dual Alt's ?????? What is the goal ?????
     
  12. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    More juice, like for winching, high output stereos, big lights for night wheeling, etc...
    I can go on and on, you can never have enough juice.
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