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"WRAPTOR" anti wrap bar.

Discussion in 'Vendor Forum' started by cybrfire, Jun 25, 2006.

  1. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Pricing...

    Wraptor anti wrap bar,

    This is all the required parts to put it on your "BACKBONE" truss system.

    The mounting tabs. Upper and lower bars with bushings welded on the diff end, Wristed shackle, Completley welded crossmember, ready for installation. All the necessary greasable poly's, sleeve's, 9/16" grade 8 hardware, Bolts to attach the crossmember to your frame. All you need to do is cut the upper and lower bars to length and weld them together, mount the crossmember and paint.

    $275.00

    Now, if you are purchasing this with the Backbone I will of course weld the tabs to the Backbone for you.

    I will be getting something done with the lower shock mounts attached to the truss system in the next day or so. I have a plan, just need the time.

    I will also be getting a picture of the Wraptor kit contents as soon as we can pull it back off the truck. Then you will be able to see all of the components together.

    I will also be adding a photo in the next few minutes to show where the grease fitting is positioned on the wristed shackle.

    EDIT FINISHED!



    OK, couple things to note right off. First thing. Some small changes were made in the "Backbone" truss system to aid in the design of the anti wrap system. First of all we split the diff ring from the truss tube and made it a seperate bolt on piece. This was done mainly to make things simpler to assemble while allowing some preload in the axle housing.

    Secondly, the pinion tie in was made wider to better center the anti wrap in the chassis and to make a little more space.

    The anti wrap bar, We talked about building this as a complete bolt on and finally came to the conclusion, considering pinion angle, lift, and wheel base there is no good way to build it "Universal" and have it work well for everyone without building in complex and expensive adjustments and still maintain the level of strength and durability found in our end product. So, that being said there are a couple of DIY items involved here. Nothing terribly difficult though. First of which is cutting the upper bar to the length required by the end user and welding it to the wrist shaft.
    Second would be to then cut the angle on the lower bar and weld it to the upper tube.

    Now on to some photos,



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    So, if you have any questions or comments feel free to post up and I'll explain whatever I can.

    We did some twisting on it today and I can tell you this, It's gona work Sweet! The wristed mount does its job and does it well. Everything swings smoot and on this chassis we used a 6" shackle and have plenty of room. The crossmember itself is bolted in factory holes although I couldn't say for sure if they will be there on every fullsize GM. This is a shortbox chassis. I think they are there on long box but probably not blazers so some drilling may also be required and this is not to say that the holes have to be used. It can be placed where it will work the best for your setup. There is 6 holes per frame rail. I'm sure there are more details that you guys would like to know about so ask away.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2006
  2. RGV72BLAZER

    RGV72BLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    looks freakin' good. does it limit articulation? price? & it can made to work on a '72 K5 that'll have a rear 70
     
  3. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Nope, it doesn't limit articulation. EDIT, it doesn't limit articulation any more than the frame!

    Price, still being calced. There is something like 44 individual pieces and a whole bag of hardware and so on. Some of it, has yet to be drawn for reproduction purposes. Price is coming.

    We talked about developement on other axles. We did kick around some changes that would have to be made to work without the bolt on pinon housing. I believe we will be doing them for 60's and 70's in the future. Can't say when for sure.
     
  4. RGV72BLAZER

    RGV72BLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    man, too bad you make great stuff for the 73+ GMs only. i'm sure i'll need something to control the axle wrap on mine, but i guess i'll have to have one fabbed locally. thanks anyway.
     
  5. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    I would really like to start building stuff for the first gens. I really like that body style. Just haven't been able to lay my hands on anything worth using for a setup truck yet. To me that is one of the most difficult parts of this buisness. Having all the trucks to design parts off of! Maybe will have something going on by the time your ready.
     
  6. Citizen Rider

    Citizen Rider 1/2 ton status

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    Wow! Very nice! Im never gonna have money for food.

    One question, ive never understood the shackle. I can see that it allows the axle to move, but wouldnt that also allow the wrap to still occur?
     
  7. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I have thought the same thing about the shackle, just not sold on the idea....yet.
     
  8. rigpig on juice

    rigpig on juice Registered Member

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    When can I buy it?

    When will this system be read to buy? I want it as soon as available.
     
  9. chosen(1)

    chosen(1) 1/2 ton status

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    Maybe I'm wrong about this, but it looks to me like the shackle will allow the axle to move as the springs compress, but since the link is triangulated, any wrap would try to make it move up and down not back and forth. If it were a single link you would be right.
     
  10. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    When spring wrap occurs it causes the arm to "attempt" travel in a circular motion upward. The axle tube being the center of that circle. The shackle would have to stretch for that motion to occur. Yes, if the arm was not triangulated it would do nothing. Since it is triangulated it does not pivot around the bushings at the axle. Those are fixed points and only there to allow for articulation.

    So, with the shackle in place the axle and anti wrap bar can move forward and rearward together as it normally would through the suspension cycling. With the wristed piece in there, we've eliminated any bind that the bushings wouldn't have been able to handle on their own as the axle articulates. Having the anti wrap bar in the center of the chassis is also critical to performance.

    We did flex this chassis after the bar was installed. Maybe not the best indicator as not all of the weight is on the chassis as there would be when its a finished rig. We flexed the chassis and then marked the wristed shaft and hub and then returned the chassis to its rest position and the marks were now misaligned by 20 to 25 degrees.

    I will get some pricing finished up tomorrow.
     
  11. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    will the anti-wrap setup be sold in component form? I already have a really nice (but non-DIY) diff cover for example. I may also decide to make my truss a permenent welded-on one with two tube members instead of just one...

    j
     
  12. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    If your really looking for a name for it? I have one it's a "Axle Hard-on"! Great looking... I do have a question for you. What do you have under the bearing cap on the front of the bar? If it's bearings, isn't that a weak point? bearings strength is center of axes.. the pushing in the side of the bearings can break the bearings apart....
     
  13. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    If you need pieces just let me know what they are and I can help you out there no prob.
     
  14. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Yes, there are two tapered roller bearings under the cap. I understand what you are saying. The forces pushing the bar forward or rearward in relation to the vehicle are pretty minimal. It is free in motion in that direction opposed by the swing of the shackle.
     
  15. Citizen Rider

    Citizen Rider 1/2 ton status

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    On the backbone truss, do the mounts go right where the shock mount to on the axle?
     
  16. t89blazer

    t89blazer 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Will this setup work with your shock inboarding kit? If not, will you be working on that? Very Interested!!:bow:
     
  17. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Yes, the go right next to the spring perch with approx. 1" to spare for your ubolts. One thing about a truss is, the wider the better.

    t89blazer,

    This will work in conjunction with the shock inboarding kit. We have to fab up some lower shock mounts that will go on the axle clamps but it will all work together.
     
  18. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Name it the "Wraptor" :waytogo:
     
  19. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    And there it is! Thank you!
     
  20. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    Just something that wold be nice is a zirt plug to keep the greese in those bearings....
     

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