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x-over steering

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by bad_bo_ti, Mar 5, 2001.

  1. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    thinking about doing this in the really near future. i have a 84 blazer with 6in suspension lift 3in body and will probably be running 38sor 39s, i have heard of two different set ups, one being under the spring, and the other over, which one would be better for my set up. also how bad will the engine cross member get in the way? is there a way that i can maybe bend the tie rod from the box to the knuckle to eliminate this problem. thanks for all your help.
     
  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    You'll want to steer off of a steering arm on the right side knuckle. To do this on a 1/2t axle, you need knuckles with a flat top on the right hand side, and the matching knuckle for the left. At that point, you or we machine the knuckle, bolt the arm on and run the draglink. You may be able to put some bend in the draglink to minimize the interference with the crossmember, but if it's bent too much, it'll hit the leaf on the right side when it articulates. (droop on the left side) You'll most likely need to do some clearance work on the crossmember to make it work.
    If you're going to be using the truck hard, you'll need to upgrade the axle, the 10 bolt won't hold up real well to a 39" tire and hard use. it won't just spontaneously grenade on you, but you'll have increased ball joint wear and more frequency of fixing broken drive parts. just a heads up.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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  3. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    do you offer a kit, whats the price what all does it come with? i doubt i will beat on the blazer that much anyway. i am doing an axle swap but i will be putting in a 10 bolt 8lug and 14 bolt ff in the rear.
     
  4. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    We're in the neighborhood of 6 weeks from offering a complete kit. As it is, we have the pitman and steering arms and are building the draglinks on a custom basis. We're revising our steering to make it more interchangeable with D60 stuff in the near future. For now, start looking for the D44 knuckles with the flat top on the right side. You'll need both knuckles to swap onto your 10 bolt. Then we can do the machine work and supply the rest of the parts.
    thanks

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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  5. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    may sound like dumb question, but why do i need both sides? i mean i already have one flat top driver side. are the ten bolt and d44 knuckle different as in length of where the tie rod bolts on? just kind of curious cuz i have only been looking for one side (passenger)
     
  6. MTPockets

    MTPockets 1/2 ton status

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    the taper for the tie rod is different on the 10 bolt knuckle than it is for the dana 44 knuckle. the tie rod drops in from the top on the dana 44 and comes in from the bottom on the 10 bolt. to do this correctly you need both knuckles from the dana 44. from there you may need to get the tie rod ends for the dana 44, as they have a little drop in them to help the tie rod clear the leaf springs.
    hope this helps,
    MTPockets
    ps. i pulled a pair off a 74 cherokee chief with drum brakes. (same six bolt spindle pattern as the disc knuckles)
     
  7. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    MT's got it right. you have to match them up for that reason.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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  8. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    ok thanks for the help, i have gained some more knowlege, i have a friend that wants to buy my 3/4 ton axles, i might sell them and try to find a d60 front and 14ff rear. if i do get the d60 front you will be hearing from me on how to do the cross over on that :o) thanks again.
     
  9. 4GUNZ4X4Z

    4GUNZ4X4Z 1/2 ton status

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    <blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

    You may be able to put some bend in the draglink to minimize the interference with the crossmember, but if it's bent too much, it'll hit the leaf on the right side when it articulates. (droop on the left side) You'll most likely need to do some clearance work on the crossmember to make it work.

    <hr></blockquote>


    What if he bends the draglink at both ends? So that the draglink is parrallel with the crossmember and axle.

    <font color=blue>Professional <font color=red>JEEP EATER</font color=red> it's a population control thing.</font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  10. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    The ends should be parallel. What you end up doing is putting an offset in the bar. That way it flattens out the angle on the ends.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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  11. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    well i am keeping 3/4 ton stuff, dont want to have to rebuild another front and rear end. how much do the parts you have/can supply me with cost?
     
  12. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    We have some of the knuckles lined up, but I don't want to sell any until they are in hand. Your best bet would be to build the axle with the flat top D44 with the machine work done to it, then you would be ready to bolt the arm on at any point. If you can find the knuckles, we can do the machine work, we just can't commit to the knuckles till we have them.
    Thanks

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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    SW-ORD
     
  13. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    ok as far as the steering arm and all the connecting rods go do you/ can you make these and if so how much. also how much for machine work on the knuckle?
     
  14. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    The machine work is $70, and we can do the tie rod and draglink once you're ready for them. Threaded tubes run about $60 each, depending on thread and end style.
    You could use your stock tie rod, even with the crossover, so that wouldn't be critical.
    Thanks

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  15. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    ok i was on your website looking at the x-over steering what is the bar for behind the one coming from the gear box to the pass. knuckle, is some kind of brace/support?
     
  16. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    That's a panhard bar, or track bar. It basically makes the axle move in the same side to side arc as the steering as the suspension cycles. You end up with really nice steering, but it puts MAJOR amounts of bind in the suspension and a lot of stress on the frame. I never did get it to work to my total satisfaction. That's one of the reasons for going to coils.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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  17. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    you guys sell the steering arm for the pass. knuckle? how much? also where can i get new sterring arm bolts, should i use a spacer to lift the arm? please give me all the gory details so i wont have to bother you anymore!! lol
     
  18. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    You're pretty much to the point of calling, but, it sounds like what you'll need is a right side arm and install kit ($180), the pitman arm, cut for the big tie rod ends ($70) , and a draglink. Draglink prices depend a little on what you have to do. A threaded tube is about $65-$75. Ends go from there, or you can supply your own.
    The knuckles will have to wait a little till we have some sorted out, but they'll probably be about $150-ish for the pair. You shouldn't need to have a block on the right with just a 6" lift, bolt it right to the knuckle.
    Thanks

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     

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