Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Yank out all the emission control or not?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by fourbyfourforfun, Jul 7, 2006.

  1. fourbyfourforfun

    fourbyfourforfun Registered Member

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2005
    Posts:
    14
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    in my wife's castle
    I have a 1986 k/5 Silverado Blazer in great shape. I want to know what the avantages/disadvantages would be in removing all the emision control devices. Is it a bad idea? Will it resale for much less later? Gas milage? better towing?

    thanks for your advise,
    Fourbyfourforfun
     
  2. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2001
    Posts:
    4,987
    Likes Received:
    38
    Location:
    The Rustbelt
    Alot of the vacuum lines and goofy switches on the engine are not emission control. Alot of them are for drivability. (Like cold weather starting, high altitude operation, hot weather operation), drivability, to ensure your vehicle doesn't stall, hesitate, fail to start, run on...etc. Alot of people rip all the stuff off and wonder why they can't get thier car to run properly, or why it has run-on, or why is stumbles when it's hot...etc...etc.etc. In a tempered climate it's alot of less of a blow as you can tune it, and since temp doesn't vary so much, it's not a problem. In northern or hilly area, watch out...your car won't run right unless your turning screws every time the humidity changes.
    It will yield slightly better performance under certain conditions, but all in all, it's not a good idea IMHO. The old cats are nasty, but if you replace the cat with a modern day style ($100), those are much less performance intrusive.
    Other than that, the rest of the stuff is fairly trivial.
     
  3. fourbyfourforfun

    fourbyfourforfun Registered Member

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2005
    Posts:
    14
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    in my wife's castle
    Thanks for your advise! you make alot of sense. I have some of those problems you descibe already. I wondered if running down all those future vaccum leaks and faulty switches, and the cost of replacing them, if I would be better off pulling them. But you make a strong case for keeping drivability. I live in Florida but will tow my trailer to Arizona. I will have to look at it closer.

    Thanks,
    fourbyfourforfun
     
  4. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2006
    Posts:
    11,228
    Likes Received:
    485
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    I freekin ripped it all off my engine! :D So much more room now in the engine compartment. Also a lot easier to fix stuff when you don't have to remove 50lbs of emission crap to get to the problem area. If you want to remove all emissions stuff I recomend getting an aftermarket intake manifold and carb. You know stuff that doesn't even has emissions fittings. It's a lot easier than trying to deal with emissions controled stuff that is no longer controled.
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,975
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    One thing to consider for resale is that someone that is from an area that tests emissions will likely not consider buying your vehicle. Reinstalling emissions components later is extermely expensive.

    The carburetor and distributor are both designed/tuned to work with the emissions systems, removing the emissions stuff causes problems with them, leading to more cost.

    Typically vacuum leaks are the major problem, along with tampering by previous owners. If your vacuum diagram is still on the core support, you should be able to make sure everything is hooked up correctly.
     

Share This Page