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Yet another, rear disc brake conversion question??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jwduke, Oct 12, 2003.

  1. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gifWell here it is!!! I am trying to install the Eldorado calipers on my rear disc brake conversion, here's the problem. I have the Rt. side installed, but the brake rotor is really hard to turn. I have the e-brake adjuster, adjusted as loose as possible.

    On the Rt. side, I can get the caliper on, but you can't turn the rotor at all. I have the e-brake adjuster as loose as possible. I miked the opening of the Eldorado caliper, and it opens to 1.25", well I checked the thickness of my disc rotor, and it measures 1.30". I checked at O'Rilley Autoparts website, and it list's a maximum measurement on the 3/4t rotor of 1.23". Do I need to have .07" turned off of the rotors? I am using all new/rebuilt parts./forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    I've always asked about this cause I saw it as a problem...
    all the rotors I checked were 1.280" or wider, I don't think you want to turn the rotors, I milled the pads down to get them to fit...
     
  3. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    Wouldn't it be better to take .07" off of the rotors, than .07" off of the pads?
     
  4. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    nope, you might not have .070" to take off the rotors, they have a min. number on them and can't be turned down smaller then that...now the pads will wear down to 80% to 90% of what they are from new...
     
  5. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    The rotors are stamped 1.23" Max, Discard rotor at 1.215". The rotor is 1.30", these rotors are sold as "Further machining required" Does this make any sense, or not?? Whats really wierd, stock front calipers fit right on with new pads in them, and the rotor turns freely.
     
  6. florida4x4

    florida4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Some new rotors are designed to be turned before installation. Kinda stupid but true...
     
  7. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    I figured it up, if yot take .07" off of the rotor, that leaves .015" of wear. That isn't much. I'm seriously thinking of ditching the Eldorado calipers, and using front ones with a line lock. Any thaughts??
     
  8. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    I don't know where you get your parts, But my Eldos fit right over my 3/4 ton rotors and everything was brand new! I'd return the rotors and get new ones, maybe pre turned ones! Just my .02! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  9. clubba68

    clubba68 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I figured it up, if yot take .07" off of the rotor, that leaves .015" of wear. That isn't much. I'm seriously thinking of ditching the Eldorado calipers, and using front ones with a line lock. Any thaughts??

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Sounds good to me. Can I buy your ElDo calipers from you? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
    Thanks,
    Andrew /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  10. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    O'Rilley's is where I got them....... I notice that if the pistons were flush like the front ones I'd gain .10" of clearance. But I understand you can't pust the piston in, like a regular caliper, with a C-clamp. I guess you will damage the piston.
     
  11. slider

    slider 1/2 ton status

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    I bet the piston on the caliper is not retracted all of the way into the bore of the caliper. You have to buy a special tool that rotates the piston until it bottoms in the bore, then the new pads and caliper will fit onto the rotors. Don't use a c clamp or something else like you would do on the front caliper to push the piston into the bore. it will break the caliper. Most autoparts stores sell the tool, one tool is four sided with a couple of tabs that lock ont the piston, you then use a rachet to turn the piston and tool in. The other tool is sold by the tool trucks (snapon, mac tools) it also rotates the piston into the bore. Hope this helps. Later Slider /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I bet the piston on the caliper is not retracted all of the way into the bore of the caliper. You have to buy a special tool that rotates the piston until it bottoms in the bore, then the new pads and caliper will fit onto the rotors. Don't use a c clamp or something else like you would do on the front caliper to push the piston into the bore. it will break the caliper. Most autoparts stores sell the tool, one tool is four sided with a couple of tabs that lock ont the piston, you then use a rachet to turn the piston and tool in. The other tool is sold by the tool trucks (snapon, mac tools) it also rotates the piston into the bore. Hope this helps. Later Slider /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That's what I need Slider! What is it called & where did you get it???
     
  13. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Never heard of damaging the piston... I bought my rotors from Autozone and my eldos fit perfectly... I would mike them, but my truck is in the shop so I can't... Sorry! What if you went to Autozone and miked their rotors and compared... You might just have to turn the Orielly's, or return them and buy the others! I have found that the Orielly's here has better serves and a bigger selection of stuff, but sometimes their stuff is old school, like brand new rotors that aren't factory turned... Stuff like that! They might turn them for free if you ask real nicely! I don't know, the guys at mine just say what's going on, and point to the books! They don't even ask questions! When I do need a part looked up, they ask me the part number, not the year of the vehichle.. It's things like that, that make me come back! Back to teh price of Fuel in Egypt... I would go to AutoCrap and look at their rotors... Just a thought! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I bet the piston on the caliper is not retracted all of the way into the bore of the caliper. You have to buy a special tool that rotates the piston until it bottoms in the bore, then the new pads and caliper will fit onto the rotors. Don't use a c clamp or something else like you would do on the front caliper to push the piston into the bore. it will break the caliper. Most autoparts stores sell the tool, one tool is four sided with a couple of tabs that lock ont the piston, you then use a rachet to turn the piston and tool in. The other tool is sold by the tool trucks (snapon, mac tools) it also rotates the piston into the bore. Hope this helps. Later Slider /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]Is this what it looks like? http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&tool=all&item_ID=66110&group_ID=1682&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    That's the tool. It goes for $8.99 at the store I work at.
     
  16. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    Figures. its cheaper everywhere but Snap-on! Thanks everyone for the help!
     
  17. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Remove the nut and the e-brake lever from the caliper. Now you can safely use a C-clamp to press the piston back into the caliper. The jackscrew inside the piston can easily retract to the home position while the lever is removed. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif You'll need to use a socket as a spacer so that the c-clamp isn't pressing on the end of the jackscrew. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     

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