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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by amm888, Jul 20, 2002.

  1. amm888

    amm888 1/2 ton status

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    hello! i'm brand new at this stuff and i need some advice about buying a blazer. there is a '76 400 ci, v8, 6" rancho, on sale down the street for $3,750. it looks good to me but i'm not at all sure what to look for, or what i should ask the seller about. is this a good truck? is that a descent price? any advice would be great!
     
  2. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    well i would check for how many miles of course..one thing..CHECK THE FLOOR!! check for rot allll over!! mostly the rear tailpan/tailgate hing area..this is the number one spot on blazers that gets shity! /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif ask to take it for a spin see how she runs, ask if theres ever been any major problems...stuff like that..check the frame make sure its straigt...and no funy biusness goin on..body mounts..no broken springs..but if its lifted im guessing the springs should be failry new probobly....thats what i look at mostly anyway... /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif

    Bryan
     
  3. big d

    big d 1/2 ton status

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    any and all service records would be great (ask to look at those) take a buddy with you and make sure the 4x4 works. wouldnt hurt to take it for a spin and go right to a shop you trust and have them take a look at it. its better to pay, say $40.00 to get it checked out instead of a $3,000 mistake ? /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif i agree with the other comments also. best of luck.
     
  4. amm888

    amm888 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the help so far...i got another question though: how difficult is it to get into the whole workin' on your own blazer thing? being a guy who gives my cars oil-changes and new brakes, but with little overall car knowledge do you think i'd be getting myself into more than i can handle?
     
  5. amm888

    amm888 1/2 ton status

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    when checking for rust and rot can i simply look under the truck? cause i did that, and it was a little grey, but i didn't see any rust.
     
  6. big d

    big d 1/2 ton status

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    get underneath, pushup on the floors. youll know right away if its bad. drop the tailgate, pull up the carpet(if you can) and get a good look at the underneath. or, crawl under back there and take a look-push up. these things also rot bad in the little pocket along the wall just inside and right behind the driver's and passenger's seats. almost every older blazer i have seen has had this besides the rot that has already been mentioned. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif /forums/images/icons/frown.gif the inside fender is another good one, check that out. also battery trays. do the old classic, take a magnet with and go over the fenders to check for bondo-you can use this as a barganing tool ! /forums/images/icons/grin.gif also check out tie rods while you are at it, especialy with a lifted vehicle. good luck.
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Rancho doesn't make a 6" kit that I know of.
     
  8. k5geezer

    k5geezer Registered Member

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    Make sure the seller hands you a passing smog inspection report. It's the seller's obligation in Cal. If he isn't willing to do it, run the other way. It can save you a lot of hassle.
     
  9. amm888

    amm888 1/2 ton status

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    i checked out the blazer some more and i couldn't find any rust...but i did notice two other things. there seems to be a leak under the front, some kind of reddish liquid (brake/transmission/steering?) and also the rear driverside rancho lift might not be completely connected to the drive-axle (or whatever that is that's connected to the wheel - long and cylindrical). it seems to be welded on pretty solid, but it also looks like it may have come off a bit, maybe it used to be welded on better, i can't really tell...any suggestions/comments about these two problems?
     
  10. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    Take it to a shop for an inspection - should be easy if the guy lives near you. You might want to ask the person selling it where they take it for service and then take it to different shop (a 4x4 shop with 'chevy' guys would be good - they usually know where to look). They also have the tools handy to check things like ball joints etc.

    Wish I'd done that when I bought my K25. It's finally on the road after passing the out-of-province inspection/cash-grab. To be fair, the inspecting mechanic found things that really did need repairing. My son finally got to ride in it - smiled ear to ear and didn't even kick the tcase lever.
     
  11. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    76 Blazer is about as simple as they get mechanicaly.
    Red fluids are Tranny or power steering. Figure out where it's coming from. Might be as simple as a leaking pan gasket and only need about $15 to fix it. Might be as serious as a bad pump seal and a tranny shop would charge you $300 to pull and replace that.
    Most 76's came with a TH350 tranny and NP203 case. Should have a D44 front axle and 12 bolt rear axle. Mechanically it's going to be a pretty solid set up if it has been taken care of.
    Rust is the big problem. Some 76's had rocker boxes that were a carry over from 75 when they were a full convertable. THe fact that you said it looks gray leads me to believe you have come accross one. It's basicly a sub floor and your not looking at the underise of the floor your looking at a whole different pannel. There is a 4 inch tall open cavity in there. If this truck has them you need to look at the vertical pannel that runs parrallel to the frame that suports the inside edge of the pannel that goes over to the rocker under the door. The bottom pannel was galvanized and can be totaly rust free and have a gray appearence like you desicribed. The inner rail next to the frame was not galvanized and can be totaly rusted out. If it has the box then behind the front tire with be an oval hole about 4 inches tall and 6 inches wide. there will be a vertical peice visiable. that is the front cab mount stab it with a screw driver and make sure it's solid. in front of the rear tire where the pannel on the bottom comes up to meet the bed floor you will see two plastic plugs. Pop them out and shine a light in one and look in the other and see how bad the rust looks. It will be rusty that I can garantee. GM did not even paint inside that . try to see if you can see the other side of the mount you checked on front. Light surface rust is not to bad a problem but if you see holees through the inner rocker under the door and problems with the back side of cab mount that can lead to big problems that are not easy to repair.
    http://groups.msn.com/OffroadK5s/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=48 that's what the inside of that box may look like. That's is the cab mount you can see the front of through the oval hole. Notice how the back is GONE. Looked solid from the front. Few more pictures on the bottom of this page. http://groups.msn.com/OffroadK5s/shoebox.msnw?Page=3

    Repairing the body from rust is the most misrable thing to look our for. If the body and frame are solid the rest can be easily fixed.
     
  12. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Amm888, I have a 76 and I've pretty much replaced everything on it. If you want to, I can go take a look at it with you. Or, you can come over and crawl around mine and I'll show you what i know to look for (because I've replaced it! /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif ) I'm no expert, but know some key things to look for, we can test drive it and if it still looks good, I know some guys we can take it to to check it out further, as a favor.
     
  13. amm888

    amm888 1/2 ton status

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    reaper - i've seen the hole in the front wheel well, but i think it was covered (and a bit rusty), i'll check it out tomorrow. but i don't know what a "rocker" or a "tranny" is. thanks for the help though.
     
  14. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    tranny=transmission

    rocker= rocker panel or the body panel underneath the doors

    Later
     
  15. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Get with Skigirl...she will straighten you out. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif She knows K5's as well as the rest of us. She's been through her's a few times and She's real good with electrical! She will get you caught up on the lingo and get you back on track with the learning curve.
    I am just waiting for something major to let go on her truck like the transmission and talking her through a rebuild /forums/images/icons/smile.gif I bet she could do it too!
     
  16. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Grimmy, you crack me up! /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    If my tranny goes, you best plan on moving up here and being my neighbor! No one has enough free minutes to cover the amount of phone calls I'd have to make to you my friend!

    But, thanks for the compliment! Alex did get with me - he came over today and I hoodwinked him into bolting in my new amp (old one pulled 13 milliamps - too much) while I reinstalled my head unit. Darn if I'm not STILL chasing that drain. Thought I had it. It's back. Anyway, that's another story. I have a couple more things to check before I commit myself to the funny farm. /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif

    Showed him around my rig a little, then we went and looked at his prospective K5. Looked pretty good to me. Rocker rust, with cancer on top and since painted over (like it had those protector things on the sill at one point) but nothing in floorboards, tail pan etc. Had 6" blocks ( /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif ), rancho 9000's, dual rancho steering stabilizer, stock manifolds, no cats, true duals with flowmasters, aftermarket power everything including alarms, and it all works. Warn hubs, 400 engine (yummy) Rest is mostly original and very clean - all over.

    Sloppy steering - but not nearly as bad as mine was - my bet is tie rods. np203 with th350, very little leakage anywhere. Front cross member has been spot welded where it joins the frame. No plates by steering box, but no obvious cracks there either.

    One of the lower rear shock mounts is partially separated from the frame and will need to be welded up.

    The transfer case was grinding a bit shifting it in and out, I looked up an old post where you said it could shift on the fly. I dunno that this would, or I'm not quite getting what you said. Anyway, stays in gear and 4wd works.

    Gears are 3.08's, I'm sure, with 35's. Could read a novel while it gets around to leaving from a stop sign.

    Anyway, I'd buy it. Wouldn't have to put much into it to have what Alex is looking for.

    Geez the hood wasn't even bent up. /forums/images/icons/ooo.gif

    Anyway, it was kinda fun to go look at another truck. With as little as I know, I guess i've learned a thing or two from all you guys! Booyyyyy did I get rooked when I bought my rig! Dumb girl /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif That won't happen again! /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif

    Hope he gets it. He'll have a good time with it. Very nice guy BTW.
     
  17. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Still chaising the drain....Thought you had that licked. My trucks have been pretty good electrical wise. Even when I had 2 fosgates and a High Comp amp when we had the big system in it. I busted up the system and made two LOL. Only problem I have had is bad alternators and the Lady managed to kick the the feed wire for the power windows out. While they were down of course and I was out of town LOL. Still haven't figured out how she managed that.
    My Supra on the other hand is ticking me off. I have an intermitant drain I can't figure out. Sometimes I will have to jump it two day's in a row and then go a month with no problem. thought it was the battery and made Autozone replace it No Charge. Went 2 months without a problem then started up again. It sat for most of a week when I was on vacation with almost no driving other than short hops up the street to the store and not my normal 44 miles to work so you know it wasn't getting the battery fully charge in 2 miles after a start. Drove it to work and back and the next day I had to jump it. Absolutly no rhyme nor reason. It has factory alarm but at home it's parked in a garge so that's never set. I'm starting to lean towards either the Interlock relay (keeps you from starting without the clutch being pressed) for the starter is bad and I'm not really having a drain problem just High resistance in the solonoide trigger lead or the Dimmer that fades the dome light slowly off is bad. I have never caught the car drawing more that a couple hundered mA that seems in line with what the Stereo memory and digital clock would draw. I checked the draw one morning when it wouldn't start.
    Stumpped. /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif
     
  18. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Still chaising the drain....Thought you had that licked

    [/ QUOTE ] Yea, me too. Really scratching my head on this one. I do the drill (fuse pulling, bulbs, wires etc.) checking the meter each time I pull something. First was the door switch, replaced it. OK for a day. Truck hasn't moved or been started. Next day or two, it's back. Now looks like the head unit - drain disappears when I pull the constant hot. I take the unit out of the truck, jumper it directly (it's a self grounding unit, but I put one on anyway) and there's a 200 milliamp draw. Send it back to manufacturer, they can't reproduce it. I get it back, check it again. No draw. Before I reinstall it, a couple days later, check again (now i'm paranoid), there's the draw. Coming from the ham radio antenna. Fix a contact point with the cable connection to the body, draw gone. Couple days later, check it again before I reinstall the head unit, there it is again. Now it's coming from the ham radio itself, which is installed in the Tuffy console. So, I'm gonna check those wires again, and if that's it, for now I'll just disconnect the power to the ham until I need it. That is, unless the draw moves elsewhere. At this point I would expect it.

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I have an intermitant drain I can't figure out

    [/ QUOTE ] Well, join the club. What a PITA.

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I'm starting to lean towards either the Interlock relay (keeps you from starting without the clutch being pressed) for the starter is bad and I'm not really having a drain problem just High resistance in the solonoide trigger lead or the Dimmer that fades the dome light slowly off is bad.

    [/ QUOTE ] Well that would be an interesting result! Let me know what you find.

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I have never caught the car drawing more that a couple hundered mA that seems in line with what the Stereo memory and digital clock would draw

    [/ QUOTE ] They draw that much? That's what I'm chasing, a 190-200 mA draw. My stereo head unit memory is only pulling 4 mA (now, anyway). No digital clock but can't be too much. My battery is useless at a 200 mA draw. Somewhere on a previous post somebody (maybe HarryH3) mentioned that 20 milliamps was tops for our rigs. Wouldn't it also be true for any car that 200 mA would drain the battery in a couple days or a week?
     
  19. amm888

    amm888 1/2 ton status

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    i'm just about poseetive that i'll be pickin up that truck today, just need to pick up another $200...i'll let you know.
     
  20. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Congrats Alex! Good find. You have very good instincts. Wish I'd known you when I bought my now-almost-renovated-but-totally-expensive POS!
     

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