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Zero rate questions and advice.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MTBLAZER89, Dec 1, 2003.

  1. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Ok right now I am running 33's on 4" Superlift. I just got the ok to get some 37's in Jan with tax returns /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif. I figured I am gonna go with some zero-rates to minimize the cutting some. Here are my questions.

    1. I have shims in the rear can I still use a zero rate?
    2. Will my raised steering arm be ok or will I need more correction?
    3. I was thinking about the offset's for the front to move it forward 3/4-1". What are the benefits of this? Will I have to cut less?
    4. Anybody that runs a similar setup in the front did you have to do anything with the d-shaft.

    Any other advice would be great. I know I am gonna have to trim, but I just want to do as little as possible /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    Thanks.
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    1. What I did in mine was have Az-Kickin make me a custom 1" off-set tapered zero rate /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    2. 50/50 chance, not much help here, but more than likely you'll be ok with what you have.
    3. Don't know here
    4. Don't know here either, as I'm still in process.
     
  3. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Ok right now I am running 33's on 4" Superlift. I just got the ok to get some 37's in Jan with tax returns /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif. I figured I am gonna go with some zero-rates to minimize the cutting some. Here are my questions.

    1. I have shims in the rear can I still use a zero rate?
    2. Will my raised steering arm be ok or will I need more correction?
    3. I was thinking about the offset's for the front to move it forward 3/4-1". What are the benefits of this? Will I have to cut less?
    4. Anybody that runs a similar setup in the front did you have to do anything with the d-shaft.

    Any other advice would be great. I know I am gonna have to trim, but I just want to do as little as possible /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    Thanks.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    1) you could still use them, or have shimmed zero rates made, either way.

    2) hard to say on this one, back when I had a raised steering arm and 4" of lift, when the drivers side would droop while offroading, I pretty much lost all control of the vehicles front axle. x-over steering is what ya need if you really go offroad, if you dont, then raised steering and/or draglinks oughta work fine.

    3) Moving the front axle forward gives you a better approach angle and helps clear bigger tires. At full flex with the axle in the factory location, the first place tires tend to rub (if you've done the standard trimming to the front/back corners of the fender opening) is the metal that makes up the floor behind your brake/gas pedals. Naturally, cutting that metal isnt an option, so some people move their front axle forward a bit. generally, this is a good mod and cheap to do also.

    4) yeah, if you have 5" of lift and are still running a factory driveshaft, you're prolly gonna need to get it lengthened some. I know my factory shaft didnt have much slip left in it just sitting on flat ground when I had 4" of lift, let alone 5" + axle droop.

    j
     
  4. 88K5Jimmy

    88K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    3. We moved the front axle forward an inch on my dad's m1008. He has a 4" BDS springs and a 1" zero rate, crossover steering and 36's and he only had to trim the front lip of the fender. The draglink doesn't hit the engine crosmember at all.
     
  5. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    So for the rear I can just get a 1" zero rate with a taper built into it?

    [ QUOTE ]
    x-over steering is what ya need if you really go offroad

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yeah I know, but I am just not sure I wanna do x-over on a 10b front then end up going with a 60 later.
     
  6. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    So for the rear I can just get a 1" zero rate with a taper built into it?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Yes, just pm Bill(45acp), he did this for me. Tell him you want a tapered zero rate(at whatever taper you need)and have it 1" thick at the center pin location /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Yeah I know, but I am just not sure I wanna do x-over on a 10b front then end up going with a 60 later.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    yeah, dont throw $ at a 10 bolt... trust me, I know!!!

    j
     
  8. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    Some body recently posted a cheap x-over for a d44/10bolt. I can't remember who but basically they used the older style front tie rod, the kind with one fixed end and one adjustable and a hole for a steering stabilizer. They reamed the hole for the stab to fit a tierod and flipped it over so the hole was on the pass side instead of driver. They used another tierod, bent it to shape and used it as the steering arm. They still had to swap the box and arm, but it was definitely cheaper than swapping knuckles.

    Here's the original thread crossover
     
  9. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    3" lift and I used a 3/4" driveshaft spacer for the front.
     
  10. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    That would be Thumper /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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