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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by oatsk5, May 5, 2003.
What does eveey one think of using them on front axles /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
It's all good. Safe for front and rear.
a-ok for use in front axles apps. I run em front and rear on my 85. Most agree "blocks" of this kind are ok so long as they are not to big and they are part of the spring pack itself (like zero rates). Front lift blocks on the otherhand, are a no-no.
I guess I'm old school cause to me blocks are blocks whether they bolt in or not and won't be found in the front of anything I own.I know several people who use them up front with no probs,but,I still don't like them. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
well, technically a zero rate is nothing more than a slightly enlarged overload spring with both ends cut off... have something against overloads? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
I, too, don't like the thought of blocks. However, I run zero rates front and rear. The possibility of the block "folding" or "collapsing" is significantly reduced by its small size. Attaching it to the pack (as zero rates are), practically eliminates this risk. As stated, the zero rate now becomes a add-a-leaf and is subject to the same risks the add-a-leaf would be. Simple laws of physics ensure that they are as safe as a leaf pack itself, when installed correctly.
I have found them very useful for relocating the axles without perforating the spring packs. I used the ones from A-Tron and have been very pleased with them overall.
with a leaf the ends extend a fair distance past the ubolts and would there fore be somewhat captured in the event of the centrepin breaking.
your front blocks look like they would be free to fall out fairly easily
There is the same amount of surface area contacting both the pack and the perch with zero rates as with AALs. In the event of a center pin break, there isn't really much chance of losing either. If the pin breaks in the middle of the pack or top of the pack (or anywhere above the zr/AAL), the pin would still be going through it and into the perch providing some stability and "grip". If it sheared below it (at the perch), it would still have the pin keeping it inline with the rest of the pack. Offsets are even better for this. They have 2 pins. One secures it in the hole of the perch and another to the pack. So if one breaks, the other is still there to hold things in place.
If the entire pin is gone, the AAL may provide a lsight bit more of security, but it also places more leverage on the "leaf". If pressure is exerted on a ZR that would cause it to move forward or back and jar loose, the same forces on a AAL would cause it to move as well. If it did, the u-bolts would loosen as the AAL tapers and all bets are off. The ZR, offsets, and AALs all reach past the u-bolts, so side pressure should affect them the same.
But, all in all, I have yet to ever see either a ZR, and offset, or an AAL fail in the front under some pretty harsh use.
I've never ran ZR's or blocks up front so I don't have any personal experience with them.A lot of people around here have as much as 4in blocks up front and are happy with them.I've had terrible luck with blocks in the rear and can't bring myself to run them up front. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I just bought a set of "eZero rates" from www.jkwoffroad.com . I like them cause they are steel. They are good with special requests as well. I had them grind my eZero rates to 3 degree's to correct for my extended front shackles for a little extra. I think $33 shipped as is but I paid 48.50 with the 3 degree angle added. Just a bit of info if you want it.
Explain why you would want to relocate your axle?
Also, can you use ZR with blocks allready installed? (the rear of course)
When I swapped in a D60 for my front 10-bolt, I chose to move my axle forward 1.5". My reasoning was fairly simple. At the same time, I went from 35s to 42s. I trimmed the fenders more, but you can only trim so far back before you hit the tub. To be able to run 42s with only 4" suspension and 3" body lift, I moved the axle forward to prevent impact with the tub at the back of the fender well without adding more lift. It also increased my approach angle. When I swapped in the rear 14BFF for the original 10-bolt, I moved the rear one back 1". Reasoning for this was two fold. (1) It helped with my departure angle. (2) It added distance between my tcase output and axle, therefore decreasing the severity of any angles on the rear driveshaft.
You can run ZR with blocks. The ZR bolts to the spring pack and basically becomes another leaf without extensions (so to speak). This is probably not recommended, but probably would not add too much more risk than that of blocks alone.
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