readymix said:
Brent, I have herd this is the way to go. makes it so much easier to setup. thats what I would do too.
CK5
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10b R&P change (tech)
- Thread starter roadnotca
- Start date
Brent, I have herd this is the way to go. makes it so much easier to setup. thats what I would do too.
readymix
3/4 ton status
It really is the way to go. It costs a little more as you have to ruin a bearing but in the end it pays off big time.
I have done dozens of regears and I always use set-up bearings. Unless it is a trail fix......
I have done dozens of regears and I always use set-up bearings. Unless it is a trail fix......
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
You're back!rdn2blazer said:
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Learned alot today, and very productive. Its going to take a while to post because of this antique PC. Don't forget, this is a 10b I'm talking about.
To hell with the locking nut until its time to button-up. 7/8x14, also the hex is 1 5/16, not the 1 1/4 like the locknut. You probably already had the 1 5/16 socket from working on the steering.
Its a new pinion but I'm starting with the original shim between the head and the large brg. No crushable yet and to get the large brg/pinion head to seat, I've knocked the small brg race back out a ways so the brgs will take-up the play. I haven't seen anything about this in print and I don't know why it hasn't been. Anyway, if you look close, you'll see a gap between the race and the hsg seat. Its not that bright sliver, its between the sliver and the race.
To hell with the locking nut until its time to button-up. 7/8x14, also the hex is 1 5/16, not the 1 1/4 like the locknut. You probably already had the 1 5/16 socket from working on the steering.
Its a new pinion but I'm starting with the original shim between the head and the large brg. No crushable yet and to get the large brg/pinion head to seat, I've knocked the small brg race back out a ways so the brgs will take-up the play. I haven't seen anything about this in print and I don't know why it hasn't been. Anyway, if you look close, you'll see a gap between the race and the hsg seat. Its not that bright sliver, its between the sliver and the race.
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roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Yoke standing off due to small brg moved back primed for preload/crush. Also no seal yet.
Original brgs and carrier brg shims.
Original brgs and carrier brg shims.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
OK so orig. factory shim under pinion head, orig. left to right on carrier, checked backlash, came to .0055. I decided close enough to go ahead and pattern.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
I'm going to print these two and study before I go back to it. I'll run a check on the opposite side of the ring gear, tomorrow. Otherwise, WOW.
This axle has probably 1000 miles, might be quite the different story for the rear with 185,000 miles, and I fished out chunks of metal when I installed the PowerTrax.
Later.
This axle has probably 1000 miles, might be quite the different story for the rear with 185,000 miles, and I fished out chunks of metal when I installed the PowerTrax.
Later.
readymix
3/4 ton status
Post some close up of your pattern and I can tell you what to change
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
I don't know if this little camera gets any better or not. Meanwhile, try "left button click for larger image."
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
On the charts, drive looks "acceptable", coast looks perfect.
Tomorrow I'll repeat 180* side, and wipe down the "heel" to get a better image of the pattern on the teeth.
Signing off.
Tomorrow I'll repeat 180* side, and wipe down the "heel" to get a better image of the pattern on the teeth.
Signing off.
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roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Well,,,,,,,,,got into too much of a hurry, set the clicker to 80 instead of 60, snapped that baby right off. So I'm pretty much stopped until tomorrow or wed. Meanwhile, I'll look to see what McMaster-Carr has. And I still have to drill out the busted one.
readymix
3/4 ton status
A Cap bolt?
I have broken one before also. It was not too hard to get out in one piece though. I though I had a few spares but they were either thrown away or lost when I moved from Illinois. If I find one I can mail it to you.
I have broken one before also. It was not too hard to get out in one piece though. I though I had a few spares but they were either thrown away or lost when I moved from Illinois. If I find one I can mail it to you.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Thanks man, already ordered (4) and paid for. I'm picking-up LH drill today.
that sucks! how big is the bolt that you need to get out? I have easy outs if you need them. also can make a drill bushing so you dont wipe out the threads when drilling. some times its a pain in the arse to drill and not drill the threads too. there are some other tricks too that might help. let me know
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Thanks rdn. Carrier bolts are 7/16X14 fyi. Tried 1/4 LH drill first but there was too much drag, probably bolt stretch from overtorquerdn2blazer said:
. See the pic.So got the chunk out. When I did backlash check on Sunday, I neglected to check each 90*. Also didn't fully torque the carrier bolts for the pattern check. So with temp bolts I got from McMaster-Carr, torqued the caps. Backlash is consistent all the way around (.005-.006). Did another pattern check and it looks textbook. Took pics but they were out-of-focus, new ones tomorrow.
Ready to yank the carrier, yank the pinion, final clean and set preload and reassemble.
I had been using Mobil-1 synthetic, but I'm gonna use organic for the break-in, and at the 500m change, go to Mobil-1.
readymix
3/4 ton status
Good to hear you got it out. Looking forward to the pattern pics.
Did you say that this was your first time setting up gears?
Did you say that this was your first time setting up gears?
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Done engines, trannies auto and stick, electrical, body & paint; this is my first diff. Rear axle will be #2.
I know this one was easy because the factory shimming adjusts for the cast housing, tolerances on the ring & pinion gears are probably an order of magnitude tighter than castings. The original pinion must be dayum close to "2.835" (or 2.385, new pinion marking) offset, it was marked with blue paint, whatever that indicates.
Now that I think about it, the rear should actually work the same way, the only difference will be the brgs and they are tight tolerance also. The rear could be just as easy.
I know this one was easy because the factory shimming adjusts for the cast housing, tolerances on the ring & pinion gears are probably an order of magnitude tighter than castings. The original pinion must be dayum close to "2.835" (or 2.385, new pinion marking) offset, it was marked with blue paint, whatever that indicates.
Now that I think about it, the rear should actually work the same way, the only difference will be the brgs and they are tight tolerance also. The rear could be just as easy.
readymix
3/4 ton status
Good job so far. 10 Bolt rear also.
Make setup bearings as I posted above. It will make you life much easier
Make setup bearings as I posted above. It will make you life much easier
how hard is it to get a pinion nut off? I need to get both mine off before I can drive.
just reread my post
just reread my post
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Pervdleroy43 said:how hard is it to get a pinion nut off? I need to get both mine off before I can drive.
Scroll backwards, I posted a pic of my method. Hook a "bar" with a screw clamp, use a floor jack to torque the breaker bar.
